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s; and piles of debris。 A haze of dust hovered over the city and; across the river; a single plume of smoke rose to the sky。
Where are the trees? I said。
People cut them down for firewood in the winter; Farid said。 The Shorawi cut a lot of them down too。
Why?
Snipers used to hide in them。
A sadness came over me。 Returning to Kabul was like running into an old; forgotten friend and seeing that life hadn t been good to him; that he d bee homeless and destitute。
My father built an orphanage in Shar…e…Kohna; the old city; south of here; I said。
I remember it; Farid said。 It was destroyed a few years ago。
Can you pull over? I said。 I want to take a quick walk here。
Farid parked along the curb on a small backstreet next to a ramshackle; abandoned building with no door。 That used to be a pharmacy; Farid muttered as we exited the truck。 We walked back to Jadeh Maywand and turned right; heading west。 What s that smell? I said。 Something was making my eyes water。
Diesel; Farid replied。 The city s generators are always going down; so electricity is unreliable; and people use diesel fuel。
Diesel。 Remember what this street smelled like in the old days?
Farid smiled。 Kabob。
Lamb kabob; I said。
Lamb; Farid said; tasting the word in his mouth。 The only people in Kabul who get to eat lamb now are the Taliban。 He pulled on my sleeve。 Speaking of which。。。
A vehicle was approaching us。 Beard Patrol; Farid murmured。
That was the first time I saw the Taliban。 I d seen them on TV on the Internet; on the cover of magazines; and in newspapers。 But here I was now; less than fifty feet from them; telling myself that the sudden taste in my mouth wasn t unadulterated; naked fear。 Telling myself my flesh hadn t suddenly shrunk
against my bones and my heart wasn t battering。 Here they came。 In all their glory。
The red Toyota pickup truck idled past us。 A handful of sternfaced young men sat on their haunches in the cab; Kalashnikovs slung on their shoulders。 They all wore beards and black turbans。 One of them; a dark…skinned man in his early twenties with thick; knitted eyebrows twirled a whip in his hand and rhythmically swatted the side of the truck with it。 His roaming eyes fell on me。 Held my gaze。 I d never felt so naked in my entire life。 Then the Talib spat tobacco…stained spittle and looked away。 I found I could breathe again。 The truck rolled down Jadeh Maywand; leaving in its trail a cloud of dust。
What is the matter with you? Farid hissed。
What?
Don t ever stare at them! Do you understand me? Never!
I didn t mean to; I said。
Your friend is quite right; Agha。 You might as well poke a rabid dog with a stick; someone said。 This new voice belonged to an old beggar sitting barefoot on the steps of a bullet…scarred building。 He wore a threadbare chapan worn to frayed shreds and a dirt…crusted turban。 His left eyelid drooped over an empty socket。 With an arthritic hand; he pointed to the direction the red truck had gone。 They drive around looking。 Looking and hoping that someone will provoke them。 Sooner or later; someone always obliges。 Then the dogs feast and the day s boredom is broken at last and everyone says Allah…u…akbar! And on those days when no one offends; well; there is always random violence; isn t there?
Keep your eyes on your feet when the Talibs are near; Farid said。
Your friend dispenses good advice; the old beggar chimed in。 He barked a wet cough and spat in a soiled handkerchief。 Forgive me; but could you spare a few Afghanis? he breathed。
Bas。 Let s go; Farid said; pulling me by the arm。