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the same apathy。 At Chateau…Thierry on the 4th of July； 1789；＇37＇
there is not a café in which a new paper can be found； there is but
one at Dijon； at Moulins； the 7th of August； 〃in the best café in the
town； where I found near twenty tables set for company； but as for a
newspaper I might as well have demanded an elephant。〃 Between
Strasbourg and Besan？on there is not a gazette。 At Besan？on there is
〃nothing but the Gazette de France； for which； this period； a man of
common sense would not give one sol； 。 。 。 and the Courier de l'Europe
a fortnight old； and well…dressed people are now talking of the news
of two or three weeks past； and plainly by their discourse know
nothing of what is passing。 At Clermont 〃I dined； or supped； five
times at the table d'h？te with from twenty to thirty merchants； trade
men； officers； etc。； and it is not easy for me to express the
insignificance； … the inanity of their conversation。 Scarcely any
politics are mentioned at a moment when every bosom ought to beat with
none but political sensations。 The ignorance or the stupidity of these
people must be absolutely incredible； not a week passes without their
country abounding with events＇38＇ that are analyzed an debated by the
carpenters and blacksmiths of England。〃 The cause of this inertia is
manifest； interrogated on their opinions； all reply： 〃We are of the
provinces and we must wait to know what is going on in Paris。〃 Never
having acted； they do no know how to act。 But； thanks to this inertia；
they let themselves be driven。 The provinces form an immense stagnant
pond； which； by a terrible inundation； may be emptied exclusively on
one side； and suddenly； the fault lies with the engineers who failed
to provide it with either dikes or outlets。
Such is the languor or； rather； the prostration； into which local
life falls when the local chiefs deprive it of their presence； action
or sympathy。 I find only three or four grand seigniors taking a part
in it； practical philanthropists following the example of English
noblemen； the Duc d'Harcourt； who settles the lawsuits of his
peasants； the Duc de Larochefoucauld…Liancourt who establishes a model
farm on his domain； and a school of industrial pursuits for the
children of poor soldiers； and the Comte de Brienne； whose thirty
villages are to demand liberty of the Convention。＇39＇ The rest； for
the most part liberals； content themselves with discussions on public
affairs and on political economy。 In fact； the difference in manners；
the separation of interests； the remoteness of ideas are so great that
contact between those most exempt from haughtiness and their immediate
tenantry is rare； and at long intervals。 Arthur Young； needing some
information at the house of the Duc de Larochefoucauld himself； the
steward is sent for。 〃At an English nobleman's； there would have been
three or four farmers asked to meet me； who would have dined with the
family amongst the ladies of the first rank。 I do not exaggerate when
I say that I have had this at least an hundred times in the first
houses of our islands。 It is； however； a thing that in the present
style of manners in France would not be met with from Calais to
Bayonne except； by chance； in the house of some great lord that had
been much in England； and then not unless it was asked for。 The
nobility in France have no more idea of practicing agriculture； and
making it a subject of conversation； except on the mere theory； as
they would speak of a loom or a bowsprit； than of any other object the
most remote from their habits and pursuits。〃 Through tradition；
fashion and deliberation； they are； and wish only to be； people of
society； their sole concern is to talk and to hunt。 Never have the
leaders of men so unlearned the art of leading men； the art which
consists of marching along the same pathway with them； but at the
head； and directing their labor by sharing in it。 … Our Englishman；
an eye…witness and competent； again writes： 〃Thus it is whenever you
stumble on a grand seignior； even one that was worth millions； you are
sure to find his property desert。 Those of the Duc de Bouillon and of
the Prince de Soubise are two of the greatest properties in France；
and all the signs I have yet seen of their greatness are heaths；
moors； deserts； and brackens。 Go to their residence； wherever it may
be； and you would probably find them in the midst of a forest very
well peopled with deer； wild boars and wolves。〃 〃The great
proprietors；〃 says another contemporary；＇40＇ 〃attracted to and kept in
our cities by luxurious enjoyments know nothing of their estates；〃
save 〃of their agents whom they harass for the support of a ruinous
ostentation。 How can ameliorations be looked for from those who even
refuse to keep things up and make indispensable repairs？〃 A sure proof
that their absence is the cause of the evil is found in the visible
difference between the domain worked under absent abbé…commendatory
and a domain superintended by monks living on the spot 〃The
intelligent traveler recognizes it〃 at first sight by the state of
cultivation。 〃If he finds fields well enclosed by ditches； carefully
planted； and covered with rich crops； these fields； he says to
himself； belong to the monks。 Almost always； alongside of these
fertile plains； is an area of ground badly tilled and almost barren；
presenting a painful contrast； and yet the soil is the same； being two
portions of the same domain； he sees that the latter is the portion of
the abbé…commendatory。〃 〃The abbatial manse。〃 said Lefranc de
Pompignan； 〃frequently looks like the property of a spendthrift； the
monastic manse is like a patrimony whereon nothing is neglected for
its amelioration；〃 to such an extent that 〃 the two…thirds 〃 which the
abbé enjoys bring him less than the third reserved by his monks。 … The
ruin or impoverishment of agriculture is； again； one of the effects of
absenteeism。 There was； perhaps； one…third of the soil in France；
which； deserted as in Ireland； was as badly tilled； as little
productive as in Ireland in the hands of the rich absentees； the
English bishops； deans and nobles。
Doing nothing for the soil； how could they do anything for men？ Now
and then； undoubtedly； especially with farms that pay no rent； the
steward writes a letter； alleging the misery of the farmer。 There is
no doubt； also； that； especially for thirty years back； they desire to
be humane； they descant among themselves about the rights of man； the
sight of the pale face of a hungry peasant would give them pain。 But
they never see him； does it ever occur to them to fancy what it is
like under the awkward and complimentary phrases of their agent？
Moreover； do they know what hunger is？ Who amongst them has had any
rural experiences？ And how could they picture to themselves the misery
of this forlorn being？ They are too remote from him to that； too
ignorant of his mode of life。 The portrait they conceive of