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and maples which shade the principal thoroughfares are not the result of
chance； but the ample reward of the loving care that is taken to preserve
the trees。 There is a society in Portsmouth devoted to arboriculture。 It is
not unusual there for persons to leave legacies to be expended in setting
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out shade and ornamental trees along some favorite walk。 Richards
Avenue； a long； unbuilt thoroughfare leading from Middle Street to the
South Burying…Ground； perpetuates the name of a citizen who gave the
labor of his own hands to the beautifying of that windswept and barren
road the cemetery。 This fondness and care for trees seems to be a matter of
heredity。 So far back as 1660 the selectmen instituted a fine of five
shillings for the cutting of timber or any other wood from off the town
common； excepting under special conditions。
In the business section of the town trees are few。 The chief business
streets are Congress and Market。 Market Street is the stronghold of the
dry…goods shops。 There are seasons； I suppose； when these shops are
crowded； but I have never happened to be in Portsmouth at the time。 I
seldom pass through the narrow cobble…paved street without wondering
where the customers are that must keep all these flourishing little
establishments going。 Congress Streeta more elegant thoroughfare than
Marketis the Nevski Prospekt of Portsmouth。 Among the prominent
buildings is the Athenaeum； containing a reading…room and library。 From
the high roof of this building the stroller will do well to take a glance at
the surrounding country。 He will naturally turn seaward for the more
picturesque aspects。 If the day is clear； he will see the famous Isle of
Shoals； lying nine miles awayAppledore； Smutty…Nose； Star Island；
White Island； etc。； there are nine of them in all。 On Appledore is
Laighton's Hotel； and near it the summer cottage of Celia Thaxter； the poet
of the Isles。 On the northern end of Star Island is the quaint town of
Gosport； with a tiny stone church perched like a sea…gull on its highest
rock。 A mile southwest form Star Island lies White Island； on which is a
lighthouse。 Mrs。 Thaxter calls this the most picturesque of the group。
Perilous neighbors； O mariner！ in any but the serenest weather； these
wrinkled； scarred； are storm…smitten rocks； flanked by wicked sunken
ledges that grow white at the lip with rage when the great winds blow！
How peaceful it all looks off there； on the smooth emerald sea！ and
how softly the waves seem to break on yonder point where the unfinished
fort is！ That is the ancient town of Newcastle； to reach which from
Portsmouth you have to cross three bridges with the most enchanting
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An Old Town By The Sea
scenery in New Hampshire lying on either hand。 At Newcastle the poet
Stedman has built for his summerings an enviable little stone chateaua
seashell into which I fancy the sirens creep to warm themselves during the
winter months。 So it is never without its singer。
Opposite Newcastle is Kittery Point； a romantic spot； where Sir
William Pepperell； the first American baronet； once lived； and where his
tomb now is； in his orchard across the road； a few hundred yards from the
〃goodly mansion〃 he built。 The knight's tomb and the old Pepperell House；
which has been somewhat curtailed of it fair proportions； are the objects of
frequent pilgrimages to Kittery Point。
From the elevation （the roof of the Athenaeun） the navy yard； the river
with its bridges and islands； the clustered gables of Kittery and Newcastle；
the illimitable ocean beyond make a picture worth climbing four or five
flights of stairs to gaze upon。 Glancing down on the town nestled in the
foliage； it seems like a town dropped by chance in the midst of a forest。
Among the prominent objects which lift themselves above the tree tops are
the belfries of the various churches； the white fa 鏰 de of the custom house；
and the mansard and chimneys of the Rockingham； the principal hotel。
The pilgrim will be surprised to find in Portsmouth one of the most
completely appointed hotels in the United States。 The antiquarian may
lament the demolition of the old Bell Tavern； and think regretfully of the
good cheer once furnished the wayfarer by Master Stavers at the sign of
the Earl of Halifax； and by Master Stoodley at his inn on Daniel Street； but
the ordinary traveler will thank his stars； and confess that his lines have
fallen in pleasant places； when he finds himself among the frescoes of the
Rockingham。
Obliquely opposite the doorstep of the Athenaeumwe are supposed to
be on terra firma againstands the Old North Church； a substantial
wooden building； handsomely set on what is called The Parade； a large
open space formed by the junction of Congress； Market； Daniel； and
Pleasant streets。 Here in days innocent of water…works stood the town
pump； which on more than one occasion served as whipping…post。
The churches of Portsmouth are more remarkable for their number
than their architecture。 With the exception of the Stone Church they are
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An Old Town By The Sea
constructed of wood or plain brick in the simplest style。 St。 John's
Church is the only one likely to attract the eye of a stranger。 It is finely
situated on the crest of Church Hill； overlooking the ever…beautiful river。
The present edifice was built in 1808 on the site of what was known as
Queen's Chapel； erected in 1732； and destroyed by fire December 24；
1806。 The chapel was named in honor of Queen Caroline； who furnished
the books for the altar and pulpit； the plate； and two solid mahogany chairs；
which are still in use in St。 John's。 Wit