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the book of tea-第2章

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Let us stop the continents from hurling epigrams at each  other; and be sadder if not wiser by the mutual gain of half a hemisphere。  We have developed along different lines; but  there is no reason why one should not supplement the other。 You have gained expansion at the cost of restlessness; we have created a harmony which is weak against aggression。 Will you believe it?the East is better off in some respects than the West!

Strangely enough humanity has so far met in the tea…cup。 It is the only Asiatic ceremonial which commands universal esteem。  The white man has scoffed at our religion and our morals; but has accepted the brown beverage without hesitation。  The afternoon tea is now an important function in Western society。  In the delicate clatter of trays and  saucers; in the soft rustle of feminine hospitality; in the common catechism about cream and sugar; we know that the Worship of Tea is established beyond question。  The philosophic resignation of the guest to the fate awaiting him in the dubious decoction proclaims that in this single instance the Oriental spirit reigns supreme。

The earliest record of tea in European writing is said to be found in the statement of an Arabian traveller; that after the year 879 the main sources of revenue in Canton were the duties on salt and tea。  Marco Polo records the deposition of a Chinese minister of finance in 1285 for his arbitrary  augmentation of the tea…taxes。  It was at the period of the great discoveries that the European people began to know more about the extreme Orient。  At the end of the sixteenth century the Hollanders brought the news that a pleasant drink was made in the East from the leaves of a bush。  The travellers Giovanni Batista Ramusio (1559); L。 Almeida (1576); Maffeno (1588); Tareira (1610); also mentioned tea。  In the last…named year ships of the Dutch East India Company brought the first tea into Europe。  It was known  in France in 1636; and reached Russia in 1638。  England  welcomed it in 1650 and spoke of it as 〃That excellent and by all physicians approved China drink; called by the  Chineans Tcha; and by other nations Tay; alias Tee。〃

Like all good things of the world; the propaganda of Tea met with opposition。  Heretics like Henry Saville (1678) denounced drinking it as a filthy custom。  Jonas Hanway (Essay on Tea; 1756) said that men seemed to lose their stature and comeliness; women their beauty through the  use of tea。  Its cost at the start (about fifteen or sixteen shillings a pound) forbade popular consumption; and made it 〃regalia for high treatments and entertainments; presents being made thereof to princes and grandees。〃  Yet in spite of such drawbacks tea…drinking spread with marvellous rapidity。  The coffee…houses of London in the early half of the eighteenth century became; in fact; tea…houses; the resort of wits like Addison and Steele; who beguiled  themselves over their 〃dish of tea。〃  The beverage soon became a necessity of lifea taxable matter。  We are  reminded in this connection what an important part it plays in modern history。  Colonial America resigned herself to oppression until human endurance gave way before the heavy duties laid on Tea。  American independence dates from the throwing of tea…chests into Boston harbour。

There is a subtle charm in the taste of tea which makes it irresistible and capable of idealisation。  Western humourists were not slow to mingle the fragrance of their thought with  its aroma。  It has not the arrogance of wine; the self… consciousness of coffee; nor the simpering innocence of cocoa。  Already in 1711; says the Spectator:  〃I would therefore in a particular manner recommend these my speculations to all well…regulated families that set apart an hour every morning for tea; bread and butter; and would earnestly advise them for  their good to order this paper to be punctually served up and  to be looked upon as a part of the tea…equipage。〃  Samuel  Johnson draws his own portrait as 〃a hardened and shameless tea drinker; who for twenty years diluted his meals with only the infusion of the fascinating plant; who with tea amused the evening; with tea solaced the midnight; and with tea welcomed  the morning。〃

Charles Lamb; a professed devotee; sounded the true note of Teaism  when he wrote that the greatest pleasure he knew was to do a  good action by stealth; and to have it found out by accident。  For Teaism is the art of concealing beauty that you may discover it; of suggesting what you dare not reveal。  It is the noble secret of laughing at yourself; calmly yet thoroughly; and is thus humour itself;the smile of philosophy。  All genuine humourists may in this sense be called tea…philosophers;Thackeray; for instance; and of course; Shakespeare。  The poets of the Decadence (when was not the world in decadence?); in their protests against materialism; have; to a certain extent; also opened the way to Teaism。  Perhaps nowadays it is our demure contemplation of the Imperfect that the West and the East can meet in mutual consolation。

The Taoists relate that at the great beginning of the No…Beginning; Spirit and Matter met in mortal combat。  At last the Yellow Emperor; the Sun of Heaven; triumphed over Shuhyung; the demon of darkness and earth。  The Titan; in his death agony; struck his head against the solar vault and shivered the blue dome of jade into fragments。  The stars lost their nests; the moon wandered aimlessly among the wild chasms of the night。  In despair the Yellow Emperor sought far and wide for the repairer of the Heavens。  He had not to search in vain。  Out of the  Eastern sea rose a queen; the divine Niuka; horn…crowned and  dragon…tailed; resplendent in her armor of fire。  She welded the five…coloured rainbow in her magic cauldron and rebuilt the Chinese sky。  But it is told that Niuka forgot to fill two tiny  crevices in the blue firmament。  Thus began the dualism of lovetwo souls rolling through space and never at rest until they join together to complete the universe。 Everyone has to build anew his sky of hope and peace。

The heaven of modern humanity is indeed shattered in the Cyclopean struggle for wealth and power。  The world is groping in the shadow of egotism and vulgarity。  Knowledge is bought through a bad conscience; benevolence practiced for the sake of utility。  The East and the West; like two dragons tossed in a sea of ferment; in vain strive to regain the jewel of life。  We need a Niuka again to repair the grand devastation; we await the great Avatar。  Meanwhile; let us have a sip of tea。 The afternoon glow is brightening the bamboos; the fountains are bubbling with delight; the soughing of the pines is heard in our kettle。  Let us dream of evanescence; and linger in the beautiful foolishness of things。



II。 The Schools of Tea。


Tea is a work of art and needs a master hand to bring out its noblest qualities。  We have good and bad tea; as we have good and bad paintingsgenerally the latter。  There is no single recipe for making the perfect tea; as there are no rules for producing a Titian or a Sesson。  Each preparation of the leaves has its individuality; its special affinity with water and heat; its own method of telling a story。  The truly beautifu
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