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where we were going。 'To Faamuina；' I said； and we rode on。
Every house by the wayside was crowded with armed men。 There
was the European house of a Chinaman on the right…hand side：
a flag of truce flying over the gate … indeed we saw three of
these in what little way we penetrated into Mataafa's lines …
all the foreigners trying to protect their goods； and the
Chinaman's verandah overflowed with men and girls and
Winchesters。 By the way we met a party of about ten or a
dozen marching with their guns and cartridge…belts； and the
cheerful alacrity and brightness of their looks set my head
turning with envy and sympathy。 Arrived at Vaiusu； the
houses about the MALAE （village green） were thronged with
men； all armed。 On the outside of the council…house （which
was all full within） there stood an orator； he had his back
turned to his audience； and seemed to address the world at
large； all the time we were there his strong voice continued
unabated； and I heard snatches of political wisdom rising and
falling。
The house of Faamuina stands on a knoll in the MALAE。
Thither we mounted； a boy ran out and took our horses； and we
went in。 Faamuina was there himself； his wife Pelepa； three
other chiefs； and some attendants； and here again was this
exulting spectacle as of people on their marriage day。
Faamuina （when I last saw him） was an elderly； limping
gentleman； with much of the debility of age； it was a bright…
eyed boy that greeted me； the lady was no less excited； all
had cartridge…belts。 We stayed but a little while to smoke a
sului； I would not have kava made； as I thought my escapade
was already dangerous （perhaps even blameworthy） enough。 On
the way back； we were much greeted； and on coming to the
ford； the commandant came and asked me if there were many on
the other side。 'Very many；' said I； not that I knew； but I
would not lead them on the ice。 'That is well！' said he； and
the little picket laughed aloud as we splashed into the
river。 We returned to Apia； through Apia； and out to
windward as far as Vaiala； where the word went that the men
of the Vaimauga had assembled。 We met two boys carrying
pigs； and saw six young men busy cooking in a cook…house； but
no sign of an assembly； no arms； no blackened faces。 I
forgot！ As we turned to leave Faamuina's； there ran forward
a man with his face blackened； and the back of his lava…lava
girded up so as to show his tattooed hips naked； he leaped
before us； cut a wonderful caper； and flung his knife high in
the air； and caught it。 It was strangely savage and
fantastic and high…spirited。 I have seen a child doing the
same antics long before in a dance； so that it is plainly an
ACCEPTED SOLEMNITY。 I should say that for weeks the children
have been playing with spears。 Up by the plantation I took a
short cut； which shall never be repeated； through grass and
weeds over the horses' heads and among rolling stones； I
thought we should have left a horse there； but fortune
favoured us。 So home； a little before six； in a dashing
squall of rain； to a bowl of kava and dinner。 But the
impression on our minds was extraordinary； the sight of that
picket at the ford； and those ardent； happy faces whirls in
my head； the old aboriginal awoke in both of us and knickered
like a stallion。
It is dreadful to think that I must sit apart here and do
nothing； I do not know if I can stand it out。 But you see； I
may be of use to these poor people； if I keep quiet； and if I
threw myself in； I should have a bad job of it to save
myself。 There； I have written this to you； and it is still
but 7。30 in the day； and the sun only about one hour up； can
I go back to my old grandpapa； and men sitting with
Winchesters in my mind's eye？ No； war is a huge
ENTRAINEMENT； there is no other temptation to be compared to
it； not one。 We were all wet； we had been about five hours
in the saddle； mostly riding hard； and we came home like
schoolboys； with such a lightness of spirits； and I am sure
such a brightness of eye； as you could have lit a candle at！
THURSDAY 29TH。
I had two priests to luncheon yesterday： the Bishop and Pere
Remy。 They were very pleasant； and quite clean too； which
has been known sometimes not to be … even with bishops。
Monseigneur is not unimposing； with his white beard and his
violet girdle he looks splendidly episcopal； and when our
three waiting lads came up one after another and kneeled
before him in the big hall； and kissed his ring； it did me
good for a piece of pageantry。 Remy is very engaging； he is
a little； nervous； eager man； like a governess； and brimful
of laughter and small jokes。 So is the bishop indeed； and
our luncheon party went off merrily … far more merrily than
many a German spread； though with so much less liquor。 One
trait was delicious。 With a complete ignorance of the
Protestant that I would scarce have imagined； he related to
us （as news） little stories from the gospels； and got the
names all wrong！ His comments were delicious； and to our
ears a thought irreverent。 'AH！ IL CONNAISSAIT SON MONDE；
ALLEZ！' 'IL ETAIT FIN； NOTRE SEIGNEUR！' etc。
FRIDAY。
Down with Fanny and Belle； to lunch at the International。
Heard there about the huge folly of the hour； all the Mulinuu
ammunition having been yesterday marched openly to vaults in
Matafele； and this morning； on a cry of protest from the
whites； openly and humiliatingly disinterred and marched back
again。 People spoke of it with a kind of shrill note that
did not quite satisfy me。 They seemed not quite well at
ease。 Luncheon over； we rode out on the Malie road。 All was
quiet in Vaiusu； and when we got to the second ford； alas！
there was no picket … which was just what Belle had come to
sketch。 On through quite empty roads； the houses deserted；
never a gun to be seen； and at last a drum and a penny
whistle playing in Vaiusu； and a cricket match on the MALAE！
Went up to Faamuina's； he is a trifle uneasy； though he gives
us kava。 I cannot see what ails him； then it appears that he
has an engagement with the Chief Justice at half…past two to
sell a piece of land。 Is this the reason why war has
disappeared？ We ride back； stopping to sketch here and there
the fords； a flag of truce； etc。 I ride on to Public Hall
Committee and pass an hour with my committees very heavily。
To the hotel to dinner； then to the ball； and home by eleven；
very tired。 At the ball I heard some news； of how the chief
of Letonu said that I was the source of all this trouble； and
should be punished； and my family as well。 This； and the
rudeness of the man at the ford of the Gase…gase； looks but
ill； I should have said that Faamuina； as he approached the
first ford； was spoken to by a girl； and immediately said
goodbye and plunged into the bus