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and the great Lafaele with a big ship…bag on his saddle…bow。
We left the mail at the P。 O。； had lunch at the hotel； and
about 1。50 set out westward to the place of tryst。 This was
by a little shrunken brook in a deep channel of mud on the
far side of which； in a thicket of low trees； all full of
moths of shadow and butterflies of sun； we lay down to await
her ladyship。 Whiskey and water； then a sketch of the
encampment for which we all posed to Belle； passed off the
time until 3。30。 Then I could hold on no longer。 30 minutes
late。 Had the secret oozed out？ Were they arrested？ I got
my horse； crossed the brook again； and rode hard back to the
Vaea cross roads； whence I was aware of white clothes
glancing in the other long straight radius of the quadrant。
I turned at once to return to the place of tryst； but D。
overtook me； and almost bore me down； shouting 'Ride； ride！'
like a hero in a ballad。 Lady Margaret and he were only come
to shew the place； they returned； and the rest of our party；
reinforced by Captain Leigh and Lady Jersey； set on for
Malie。 The delay was due to D。's infinite precautions；
leading them up lanes； by back ways； and then down again to
the beach road a hundred yards further on。
It was agreed that Lady Jersey existed no more； she was now
my cousin Amelia Balfour。 That relative and I headed the
march； she is a charming woman； all of us like her extremely
after trial on this somewhat rude and absurd excursion。 And
we Amelia'd or Miss Balfour'd her with great but intermittent
fidelity。 When we came to the last village； I sent Henry on
ahead to warn the King of our approach and amend his
discretion； if that might be。 As he left I heard the
villagers asking WHICH WAS THE GREAT LADY？ And a little
further； at the borders of Malie itself； we found the guard
making a music of bugles and conches。 Then I knew the game
was up and the secret out。 A considerable guard of honour；
mostly children； accompanied us； but； for our good fortune；
we had been looked for earlier； and the crowd was gone。
Dinner at the King's； he asked me to say grace； I could think
of none … never could； Graham suggested BENEDICTUS BENEDICAT；
at which I leaped。 We were nearly done； when old Popo
inflicted the Atua howl （of which you have heard already）
right at Lady Jersey's shoulder。 She started in fine style。
… 'There；' I said； 'we have been giving you a chapter of
Scott； but this goes beyond the Waverley Novels。' After
dinner； kava。 Lady J。 was served before me； and the King
DRANK LAST； it was the least formal kava I ever saw in that
house； … no names called； no show of ceremony。 All my ladies
are well trained； and when Belle drained her bowl； the King
was pleased to clap his hands。 Then he and I must retire for
our private interview； to another house。 He gave me his own
staff and made me pass before him； and in the interview；
which was long and delicate； he twice called me AFIOGA。 Ah；
that leaves you cold； but I am Samoan enough to have been
moved。 SUSUGA is my accepted rank； to be called AFIOGA …
Heavens！ what an advance … and it leaves Europe cold。 But it
staggered my Henry。 The first time it was complicated 'lana
susuga MA lana afioga … his excellency AND his majesty' … the
next time plain Majesty。 Henry then begged to interrupt the
interview and tell who he was … he is a small family chief in
Sawaii； not very small … 'I do not wish the King；' says he；
'to think me a boy from Apia。' On our return to the palace；
we separated。 I had asked for the ladies to sleep alone …
that was understood； but that Tusitala … his afioga Tusitala
… should go out with the other young men； and not sleep with
the highborn females of his family … was a doctrine received
with difficulty。 Lloyd and I had one screen； Graham and
Leigh another； and we slept well。
In the morning I was first abroad before dawn； not very long；
already there was a stir of birds。 A little after； I heard
singing from the King's chapel … exceeding good … and went
across in the hour when the east is yellow and the morning
bank is breaking up； to hear it nearer。 All about the
chapel； the guards were posted； and all saluted Tusitala。 I
could not refrain from smiling： 'So there is a place too；' I
thought； 'where sentinels salute me。' Mine has been a queer
life。
＇Drawing in book reproduced here in characters。。。＇
y2
X X X
H X
G X
F X
E The X
D i Kava X
A X
B X
C X
T X
X X
W
Breakfast was rather a protracted business。 And that was
scarce over when we were called to the great house （now
finished … recall your earlier letters） to see a royal kava。
This function is of rare use； I know grown Samoans who have
never witnessed it。 It is； besides； as you are to hear； a
piece of prehistoric history； crystallised in figures； and
the facts largely forgotten； an acted hieroglyph。 The house
is really splendid； in the rafters in the midst； two carved
and coloured model birds are posted； the only thing of the
sort I have ever remarked in Samoa； the Samoans being literal
observers of the second commandment。 At one side of the egg
our party sat。 a=Mataafa； b=Lady J。； c=Belle； d=Tusitala；
e=Graham； f=Lloyd； g=Captain Leigh； h=Henry； i=Popo。 The x's
round are the high chiefs； each man in his historical
position。 One side of the house is set apart for the King
alone； we were allowed there as his guests and Henry as our
interpreter。 It was a huge trial to the lad； when a speech
was made to me which he must translate； and I made a speech
in answer which he had to orate； full…breathed； to that big
circle； he blushed through his dark skin； but looked and
acted like a gentleman and a young fellow of sense； then the
kava came to the King； he poured one drop in libation； drank
another； and flung the remainder outside the house behind
him。 Next came the turn of the old shapeless stone marked T。
It stands for one of the King's titles； Tamasoalii； Mataafa
is Tamasoalii this day； but cannot drink for it； and the
stone must first be washed with water； and then have the bowl
emptied on it。 Then … the order I cannot recall … came the
turn of y and z； two orators of the name of Malietoa； the
first took his kava down plain； like an ordinary man； the
second must be packed to bed under a big sheet of tapa； and
be massaged by anxious assistants and rise on his elbow
groaning to drink his cup。 W。； a great hereditary war man；
came next； five times the cup…bearers marched up and down the
house and passed the cup on； five times it was filled and the
General's na