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horseback； and a boy at her heels to take her not very
dashing charger home again。 By 8。10 we were all on the
landing pier； and it was 9。20 before we had got away in a
boat with two inches of green wood on the keel of her； no
rudder； no mast； no sail； no boat flag； two defective
rowlocks； two wretched apologies for oars； and two boys … one
a Tongan half…caste； one a white lad； son of the Tonga
schoolmaster； and a sailor lad … to pull us。 All this was
our first taste of the tender mercies of Taylor （the
sesquipidalian half…caste introduced two letters back； I
believe）。 We had scarce got round Mulinuu when Sale Taylor's
heart misgave him； he thought we had missed the tide； called
a halt； and set off ashore to find canoes。 Two were found；
in one my mother and I were embarked with the two biscuit
tins （my present to the feast）； and the bag with our dry
clothes； on which my mother was perched … and her cap was on
the top of it … feminine hearts please sympathise； all under
the guidance of Sale。 In the other Belle and our guest；
Tauilo； a chief…woman； the mother of my cook； were to have
followed。 And the boys were to have been left with the boat。
But Tauilo refused。 And the four； Belle； Tauilo； Frank the
sailor…boy； and Jimmie the Tongan half…caste； set off in the
boat across that rapidly shoaling bay of the lagoon。
How long the next scene lasted； I could never tell。 Sale was
always trying to steal away with our canoe and leave the
other four； probably for six hours； in an empty； leaky boat；
without so much as an orange or a cocoanut on board； and
under the direct rays of the sun。 I had at last to stop him
by taking the spare paddle off the out…rigger and sticking it
in the ground … depth； perhaps two feet … width of the bay；
say three miles。 At last I bid him land me and my mother and
go back for the other ladies。 'The coast is so rugged；' said
Sale。 … 'What？' I said； 'all these villages and no landing
place？' … 'Such is the nature of Samoans；' said he。 Well；
I'll find a landing…place； I thought； and presently I said；
'Now we are going to land there。' … 'We can but try；' said
the bland Sale； with resignation。 Never saw a better
landing…place in my life。 Here the boat joined us。 My
mother and Sale continued in the canoe alone； and Belle and I
and Tauilo set off on foot for Malie。 Tauilo was about the
size of both of us put together and a piece over； she used us
like a mouse with children。 I had started barefoot； Belle
had soon to pull off her gala shoes and stockings； the mud
was as deep as to our knees； and so slippery that （moving； as
we did； in Indian file； between dense scratching tufts of
sensitive） Belle and I had to take hands to support each
other； and Tauilo was steadying Belle from the rear。 You can
conceive we were got up to kill； Belle in an embroidered
white dress and white hat； I in a suit of Bedford cords hot
from the Sydney tailors； and conceive us； below； ink…black to
the knees with adhesive clay； and above； streaming with heat。
I suppose it was better than three miles； but at last we made
the end of Malie。 I asked if we could find no water to wash
our feet； and our nursemaid guided us to a pool。 We sat down
on the pool side； and our nursemaid washed our feet and legs
for us … ladies first； I suppose out of a sudden respect to
the insane European fancies： such a luxury as you can scarce
imagine。 I felt a new man after it。 But before we got to
the King's house we were sadly muddied once more。 It was 1
P。M。 when we arrived； the canoe having beaten us by about
five minutes； so we made fair time over our bog…holes。
But the war dances were over； and we came in time to see only
the tail end （some two hours） of the food presentation。 In
Mataafa's house three chairs were set for us covered with
fine mats。 Of course； a native house without the blinds down
is like a verandah。 All the green in front was surrounded
with sheds； some of flapping canvas； some of green palm
boughs； where （in three sides of a huge oblong） the natives
sat by villages in a fine glow of many…hued array。 There
were folks in tapa； and folks in patchwork； there was every
colour of the rainbow in a spot or a cluster； there were men
with their heads gilded with powdered sandal…wood； others
with heads all purple； stuck full of the petals of a flower。
In the midst there was a growing field of outspread food；
gradually covering acres； the gifts were brought in； now by
chanting deputations； now by carriers in a file； they were
brandished aloft and declaimed over； with polite sacramental
exaggerations； by the official receiver。 He； a stalwart；
well…oiled quadragenarian； shone with sweat from his
exertions； brandishing cooked pigs。 At intervals； from one
of the squatted villages； an orator would arise。 The field
was almost beyond the reach of any human speaking voice； the
proceedings besides continued in the midst； yet it was
possible to catch snatches of this elaborate and cut…and…dry
oratory … it was possible for me； for instance； to catch the
description of my gift and myself as the ALII TUSITALA； O LE
ALII O MALO TETELE … the chief White Information； the chief
of the great Governments。 Gay designation？ In the house； in
our three curule chairs； we sat and looked on。 On our left a
little group of the family。 In front of us； at our feet； an
ancient Talking…man； crowned with green leaves； his profile
almost exactly Dante's； Popo his name。 He had worshipped
idols in his youth； he had been full grown before the first
missionary came hither from Tahiti； this makes him over
eighty。 Near by him sat his son and colleague。 In the group
on our left； his little grandchild sat with her legs crossed
and her hands turned； the model already （at some three years
old） of Samoan etiquette。 Still further off to our right；
Mataafa sat on the ground through all the business； and still
I saw his lips moving； and the beads of his rosary slip
stealthily through his hand。 We had kava； and the King's
drinking was hailed by the Popos （father and son） with a
singular ululation； perfectly new to my ears； it means； to
the expert； 'Long live Tuiatua'； to the inexpert； is a mere
voice of barbarous wolves。 We had dinner； retired a bit
behind the central pillar of the house； and； when the King
was done eating； the ululation was repeated。 I had my eyes
on Mataafa's face； and I saw pride and gratified ambition
spring to life there and be instantly sucked in again。 It
was the first time； since the difference with Laupepa； that
Popo and his son had openly joined him； and given him the due
cry as Tuiatua … one of the eight royal names of the islands；
as I hope you will know before this reaches you。
Not long after we had dined； the food…bringing was over。 The
gifts （carefully noted and tallied as they