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supposed； of terror。 It is right I should tell you the Vaea
has a bad name； an AITU FAFINE … female devil of the woods …
succubus … haunting it； and doubtless Jack had heard of her；
perhaps； during my absence； saw her； lucky Jack！ Anyway； he
was neither to hold nor to bind； and finally； after nearly
smashing me by accident； and from mere scare and
insubordination several times； deliberately set in to kill
me； but poor Jack！ the tree he selected for that purpose was
a banana！ I jumped off and gave him the heavy end of my whip
over the buttocks！ Then I took and talked in his ear in
various voices； you should have heard my alto … it was a
dreadful； devilish note … I KNEW Jack KNEW it was an AITU。
Then I mounted him again； and he carried me fairly steadily。
He'll learn yet。 He has to learn to trust absolutely to his
rider； till he does； the risk is always great in thick bush；
where a fellow must try different passages； and put back and
forward； and pick his way by hair's…breadths。
The expedition returned to Vailima in time to receive the
visit of the R。 C。 Bishop。 He is a superior man； much above
the average of priests。
THURSDAY。
Yesterday the same expedition set forth to the southward by
what is known as Carruthers' Road。 At a fallen tree which
completely blocks the way； the main body was as before left
behind； and the advance guard of one now proceeded with the
exploration。 At the great tree known as MEPI TREE； after
Maben the surveyor； the expedition struck forty yards due
west till it struck the top of a steep bank which it
descended。 The whole bottom of the ravine is filled with
sharp lava blocks quite unrolled and very difficult and
dangerous to walk among； no water in the course； scarce any
sign of water。 And yet surely water must have made this bold
cutting in the plateau。 And if so； why is the lava sharp？
My science gave out； but I could not but think it ominous and
volcanic。 The course of the stream was tortuous； but with a
resultant direction a little by west of north； the sides the
whole way exceeding steep； the expedition buried under
fathoms of foliage。 Presently water appeared in the bottom；
a good quantity； perhaps thirty or forty cubic feet； with
pools and waterfalls。 A tree that stands all along the banks
here must be very fond of water； its roots lie close…packed
down the stream； like hanks of guts； so as to make often a
corrugated walk； each root ending in a blunt tuft of
filaments； plainly to drink water。 Twice there came in small
tributaries from the left or western side … the whole plateau
having a smartish inclination to the east； one of the
tributaries in a handsome little web of silver hanging in the
forest。 Twice I was startled by birds； one that barked like
a dog； another that whistled loud ploughman's signals； so
that I vow I was thrilled； and thought I had fallen among
runaway blacks； and regretted my cutlass which I had lost and
left behind while taking bearings。 A good many fishes in the
brook； and many cray…fish； one of the last with a queer glow…
worm head。 Like all our brooks； the water is pure as air；
and runs over red stones like rubies。 The foliage along both
banks very thick and high； the place close； the walking
exceedingly laborious。 By the time the expedition reached
the fork； it was felt exceedingly questionable whether the
MORAL of the force were sufficiently good to undertake more
extended operations。 A halt was called； the men refreshed
with water and a bath； and it was decided at a drumhead
council of war to continue the descent of the Embassy Water
straight for Vailima； whither the expedition returned； in
rather poor condition； and wet to the waist； about 4。 P。M。
Thus in two days the two main watercourses of this country
have been pretty thoroughly explored； and I conceive my
instructions fully carried out。 The main body of the second
expedition was brought back by another officer despatched for
that purpose from Vailima。 Casualties： one horse wounded；
one man bruised； no deaths … as yet； but the bruised man
feels to…day as if his case was mighty serious。
DEC。 25； '91。
Your note with a very despicable bulletin of health arrived
only yesterday； the mail being a day behind。 It contained
also the excellent TIMES article； which was a sight for sore
eyes。 I am still TABOO； the blessed Germans will have none
of me； and I only hope they may enjoy the TIMES article。
'Tis my revenge！ I wish you had sent the letter too； as I
have no copy； and do not even know what I wrote the last day；
with a bad headache； and the mail going out。 However； it
must have been about right； for the TIMES article was in the
spirit I wished to arouse。 I hope we can get rid of the man
before it is too late。 He has set the natives to war； but
the natives； by God's blessing； do not want to fight； and I
think it will fizzle out … no thanks to the man who tried to
start it。 But I did not mean to drift into these politics；
rather to tell you what I have done since I last wrote。
Well； I worked away at my History for a while； and only got
one chapter done； no doubt this spate of work is pretty low
now； and will be soon dry； but； God bless you； what a lot I
have accomplished； WRECKER done； BEACH OF FALESA done； half
the HISTORY： C'EST ETONNANT。 （I hear from Burlingame； by the
way； that he likes the end of the WRECKER； 'tis certainly a
violent； dark yarn with interesting； plain turns of human
nature）； then Lloyd and I went down to live in Haggard's
rooms； where Fanny presently joined us。 Haggard's rooms are
in a strange old building … old for Samoa； and has the effect
of the antique like some strange monastery； I would tell you
more of it； but I think I'm going to use it in a tale。 The
annexe close by had its door sealed； poor Dowdney lost at sea
in a schooner。 The place is haunted。 The vast empty sheds；
the empty store； the airless； hot； long； low rooms； the claps
of wind that set everything flying … a strange uncanny house
to spend Christmas in。
JAN。 1ST； '92。
For a day or two I have sat close and wrought hard at the
HISTORY； and two more chapters are all but done。 About
thirty pages should go by this mail； which is not what should
be； but all I could overtake。 Will any one ever read it？ I
fancy not； people don't read history for reading； but for
education and display … and who desires education in the
history of Samoa； with no population； no past； no future； or
the exploits of Mataafa； Malietoa； and Consul Knappe？
Colkitto and Galasp are a trifle to it。 Well； it can't be
helped； and it must be done； and； better or worse； it's
capital fun。 There are two to whom I have not been kind …
German Consul Becker and English Captain Hand； R。N。
On Dec。 30th I rode down with Belle t