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the knowing shrewdness belonging to his actual occupation； which made his conversation amuse the way well enough。
Add to this； Donald knew all his peculiar duties in the country which he traversed so frequently。 He could tell； to a day； when they would 〃be killing〃 lamb at Tyndrum or Glenuilt； so that the stranger would have some chance of being fed like a Christian； and knew to a mile the last village where it was possible to procure a wheaten loaf for the guidance of those who were little familiar with the Land of Cakes。 He was acquainted with the road every mile； and could tell to an inch which side of a Highland bridge was passable； which decidedly dangerous。 ＇This is； or was at least； a necessary accomplishment。 In one of the most beautiful districts of the Highlands was； not many years since； a bridge bearing this startling caution； 〃Keep to the right side； the left being dangerous。〃＇ In short； Donald MacLeish was not only our faithful attendant and steady servant； but our humble and obliging friend； and though I have known the half…classical cicerone of Italy； the talkative French valet…de…place； and even the muleteer of Spain； who piques himself on being a maize…eater； and whose honour is not to be questioned without danger； I do not think I have ever had so sensible and intelligent a guide。
Our motions were of course under Donald's direction； and it frequently happened； when the weather was serene； that we preferred halting to rest his horses even where there was no established stage； and taking our refreshment under a crag； from which leaped a waterfall； or beside the verge of a fountain； enamelled with verdant turf and wild…flowers。 Donald had an eye for such spots； and though he had； I dare say； never read Gil Blas or Don Quixote； yet he chose such halting…places as Le Sage or Cervantes would have described。 Very often； as he observed the pleasure I took in conversing with the country people； he would manage to fix our place of rest near a cottage； where there was some old Gael whose broadsword had blazed at Falkirk or Preston； and who seemed the frail yet faithful record of times which had passed away。 Or he would contrive to quarter us； as far as a cup of tea went； upon the hospitality of some parish minister of worth and intelligence； or some country family of the better class； who mingled with the wild simplicity of their original manners； and their ready and hospitable welcome； a sort of courtesy belonging to a people； the lowest of whom are accustomed to consider themselves as being； according to the Spanish phrase； 〃as good gentlemen as the king； only not quite so rich。〃
To all such persons Donald MacLeish was well known； and his introduction passed as current as if we had brought letters from some high chief of the country。
Sometimes it happened that the Highland hospitality； which welcomed us with all the variety of mountain fare； preparations of milk and eggs； and girdle…cakes of various kinds； as well as more substantial dainties； according to the inhabitant's means of regaling the passenger； descended rather too exuberantly on Donald MacLeish in the shape of mountain dew。 Poor Donald！ he was on such occasions like Gideon's fleecemoist with the noble element； which； of course； fell not on us。 But it was his only fault； and when pressed to drink DOCH…AN…DORROCH to my ladyship's good health； it would have been ill taken to have refused the pledge； nor was he willing to do such discourtesy。 It was； I repeat； his only fault。 Nor had we any great right to complain； for if it rendered him a little more talkative； it augmented his ordinary share of punctilious civility； and he only drove slower； and talked longer and more pompously； than when he had not come by a drop of usquebaugh。 It was； we remarked； only on such occasions that Donald talked with an air of importance of the family of MacLeish； and we had no title to be scrupulous in censuring a foible； the consequences of which were confined within such innocent limits。
We became so much accustomed to Donald's mode of managing us； that we observed with some interest the art which he used to produce a little agreeable surprise； by concealing from us the spot where he proposed our halt to be made； when it was of an unusual and interesting character。 This was so much his wont that； when he made apologies at setting off for being obliged to stop in some strange； solitary place till the horses should eat the corn which he brought on with them for that purpose； our imagination used to be on the stretch to guess what romantic retreat he had secretly fixed upon for our noontide baiting… place。
We had spent the greater part of the morning at the delightful village of Dalmally； and had gone upon the lake under the guidance of the excellent clergyman who was then incumbent at Glenorquhy； ＇This venerable and hospitable gentleman's name was MacIntyre。＇ and had heard a hundred legends of the stern chiefs of Loch Awe； Duncan with the thrum bonnet； and the other lords of the now mouldering towers of Kilchurn。 ＇See Note 7。Loch Awe。＇ Thus it was later than usual when we set out on our journey； after a hint or two from Donald concerning the length of the way to the next stage； as there was no good halting…place between Dalmally and Oban。
Having bid adieu to our venerable and kind cicerone； we proceeded on our tour； winding round the tremendous mountain called Cruachan Ben； which rushes down in all its majesty of rocks and wilderness on the lake； leaving only a pass； in which； notwithstanding its extreme strength； the warlike clan of MacDougal of Lorn were almost destroyed by the sagacious Robert Bruce。 That King； the Wellington of his day； had accomplished； by a forced march； the unexpected manoeuvre of forcing a body of troops round the other side of the mountain； and thus placed them in the flank and in the rear of the men of Lorn； whom at the same time； he attacked in front。 The great number of cairns yet visible as you descend the pass on the westward side shows the extent of the vengeance which Bruce exhausted on his inveterate and personal enemies。 I am； you know； the sister of soldiers； and it has since struck me forcibly that the manoeuvre which Donald described； resembled those of Wellington or of Bonaparte。 He was a great man Robert Bruce； even a Baliol must admit that； although it begins now to be allowed that his title to the crown was scarce so good as that of the unfortunate family with whom he contended。 But let that pass。 The slaughter had been the greater； as the deep and rapid river Awe is disgorged from the lake just in the rear of the fugitives； and encircles the base of the tremendous mountain； so that the retreat of the unfortunate fleers was intercepted on all sides by the inaccessible character of the country； which had seemed to promise them defence and protection。 ＇See Note 8。Battle betwixt the armies of the Bruce and MacDougal of Lorn。＇
Musing； like the Irish lady in the song； 〃upon things which are long enough a…gone；〃 ＇This is a line from a very pathetic ballad which I heard sung by one of the young ladies of Edgeworthstown in 1825。 I do not know that it has been printed。＇ we felt no impatience at the slo