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itself； the seafaring housekeeping of New England is not of the
insatiable Dutch type which will not spare the stones of the highway； but
within the houses are of almost terrifying cleanliness。 The other day I
found myself in a kitchen where the stove shone like oxidized silver； the
pump and sink were clad in oilcloth as with blue tiles； the walls were
papered； the stainless floor was strewn with home…made hooked and braided
rugs； and I felt the place so altogether too good for me that I pleaded
to stay there for the transaction of my business； lest a sharper sense of
my unfitness should await me in the parlor。
The village； with scarcely an interval of farm…lands； stretches four
miles along the water…side to Portsmouth； but it seems to me that just at
the point where our lines have fallen there is the greatest concentration
of its character。 This has apparently not been weakened； it has been
accented； by the trolley…line which passes through its whole length； with
gayly freighted cars coming and going every half…hour。 I suppose they
are not longer than other trolley…cars； but they each affect me like a
procession。 They are cheerful presences by day； and by night they light
up the dim； winding street with the flare of their electric bulbs； and
bring to the country a vision of city splendor upon terms that do not
humiliate or disquiet。 During July and August they are mostly filled
with summer folks from a great summer resort beyond us； and their lights
reveal the pretty fashions of hats and gowns in all the charm of the
latest lines and tints。 But there is an increasing democracy in these
splendors； and one might easily mistake a passing excursionist from some
neighboring inland town； or even a local native with the instinct of
clothes； for a social leader from York Harbor。
With the falling leaf； the barge…like open cars close up into well…warmed
saloons； and falter to hourly intervals in their course。 But we are
still far from the falling leaf； we are hardly come to the blushing or
fading leaf。 Here and there an impassioned maple confesses the autumn；
the ancient Pepperrell elms fling down showers of the baronet's fairy
gold in the September gusts； the sumacs and the blackberry vines are
ablaze along the tumbling black stone walls； but it is still summer； it
is still summer： I cannot allow otherwise！
III。
The other day I visited for the first time （in the opulent indifference
of one who could see it any time） the stately tomb of the first
Pepperrell； who came from Cornwall to these coasts； and settled finally
at Kittery Point。 He laid there the foundations of the greatest fortune
in colonial New England； which revolutionary New England seized and
dispersed； as I cannot but feel； a little ruthlessly。 In my personal
quality I am of course averse to all great fortunes； and in my civic
capacity I am a patriot。 But still I feel a sort of grace in wealth a
century old； and if I could now have my way； I would not have had their
possessions reft from those kindly Pepperrells； who could hardly help
being loyal to the fountain of their baronial honors。 Sir William；
indeed； had helped； more than any other man； to bring the people who
despoiled him to a national consciousness。 If he did not imagine； he
mainly managed the plucky New England expedition against Louisbourg at
Cape Breton a half century before the War of Independence； and his
splendid success in rending that stronghold from the French taught the
colonists that they were Americans； and need be Englishmen no longer than
they liked。 His soldiers were of the stamp of all succeeding American
armies； and his leadership was of the neighborly and fatherly sort
natural to an amiable man who knew most of them personally。 He was
already the richest man in America； and his grateful king made him a
baronet； but he came contentedly back to Kittery； and took up his old
life in a region where he had the comfortable consideration of an
unrivalled magnate。 He built himself the dignified mansion which still
stands across the way from the post…office on Kittery Point； within an
easy stone's cast of the far older house； where his father wedded Margery
Bray； when he came； a thrifty young Welsh fisherman； from the Isles of
Shoals； and established his family on Kittery。 The Bray house had been
the finest in the region a hundred years before the Pepperrell mansion
was built； it still remembers its consequence in the panelling and
wainscoting of the large； square parlor where the young people were
married and in the elaborate staircase cramped into the little； square
hall； and the Bray fortune helped materially to swell the wealth of the
Pepperrells。
I do not know that I should care now to have a man able to ride thirty
miles on his own land； but I do not mind Sir William's having done it
here a hundred and fifty years ago； and I wish the confiscations had left
his family； say； about a mile of it。 They could now； indeed； enjoy it
only in the collateral branches； for all Sir William's line is extinct。
The splendid mansion which he built his daughter is in alien hands； and
the fine old house which Lady Pepperrell built herself after his death
belongs to the remotest of kinsmen。 A group of these； the descendants of
a prolific sister of the baronet； meets every year at Kittery Point as
the Pepperrell Association； and； in a tent hard by the little grove of
drooping spruces which shade the admirable renaissance cenotaph of Sir
William's father； cherishes the family memories with due American
〃proceedings。〃
IV。
The meeting of the Pepperrell Association was by no means the chief
excitement of our summer。 In fact； I do not know that it was an
excitement at all； and I am sure it was not comparable to the presence of
our naval squadron； when for four days the mighty dragon and kraken
shapes of steel； which had crumbled the decrepit pride of Spain in the
fight at Santiago； weltered in our peaceful waters； almost under my
window。
I try now to dignify them with handsome epithets； but while they were
here I had moments of thinking they looked like a lot of whited
locomotives； which had broken through from some trestle； in a recent
accident； and were waiting the offices of a wrecking…train。 The poetry
of the man…of…war still clings to the 〃three…decker out of the foam〃 of
the past； it is too soon yet for it to have cast a mischievous halo about
the modern battle…ship； and I looked at the New York and the Texas and
the Brooklyn and the rest； and thought； 〃Ah； but for you； and our need of
proving your dire efficiency； perhaps we could have got on with the
wickedness of Spanish rule in Cuba； and there had been no war！〃 Under my
reluctant eyes the great； dreadful spectacle of the Santiago fight
displayed itself in peaceful Kittery Harbor。 I saw the Spanish ships
drive upon the reef where a man from Dover； New Hampshire； was camping in
a little wooden shanty unconscious； and I heard the dying screams of the
Spanish sailors； seethed and scalded within the steel walls of their own
wicked war…kettles。
As for the guns； battle or no battle； our ships； like 〃kind Lieutenant
Be