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held to mean 〃the shedding of the Sieg;〃the river itself receiving
that name。 The curving shore opposite to the face of the Falberg is
the valley of Jarvis;a smiling scene overlooked by hills clothed
with firs; birch…trees; and larches; mingled with a few oaks and
beeches; the richest coloring of all the varied tapestries which
Nature in these northern regions spreads upon the surface of her
rugged rocks。 The eye can readily mark the line where the soil; warmed
by the rays of the sun; bears cultivation and shows the native growth
of the Norwegian flora。 Here the expanse of the fiord is broad enough
to allow the sea; dashed back by the Falberg; to spend its expiring
force in gentle murmurs upon the lower slope of these hills;a shore
bordered with finest sand; strewn with mica and sparkling pebbles;
porphyry; and marbles of a thousand tints; brought from Sweden by the
river floods; together with ocean waifs; shells; and flowers of the
sea driven in by tempests; whether of the Pole or Tropics。
At the foot of the hills of Jarvis lies a village of some two hundred
wooden houses; where an isolated population lives like a swarm of bees
in a forest; without increasing or diminishing; vegetating happily;
while wringing their means of living from the breast of a stern
Nature。 The almost unknown existence of the little hamlet is readily
accounted for。 Few of its inhabitants were bold enough to risk their
lives among the reefs to reach the deep…sea fishing;the staple
industry of Norwegians on the least dangerous portions of their coast。
The fish of the fiord were numerous enough to suffice; in part at
least; for the sustenance of the inhabitants; the valley pastures
provided milk and butter; a certain amount of fruitful; well…tilled
soil yielded rye and hemp and vegetables; which necessity taught the
people to protect against the severity of the cold and the fleeting
but terrible heat of the sun with the shrewd ability which Norwegians
display in the two…fold struggle。 The difficulty of communication with
the outer world; either by land where the roads are impassable; or by
sea where none but tiny boats can thread their way through the
maritime defiles that guard the entrance to the bay; hinder these
people from growing rich by the sale of their timber。 It would cost
enormous sums to either blast a channel out to sea or construct a way
to the interior。 The roads from Christiana to Trondhjem all turn
toward the Strom…fiord; and cross the Sieg by a bridge some score of
miles above its fall into the bay。 The country to the north; between
Jarvis and Trondhjem; is covered with impenetrable forests; while to
the south the Falberg is nearly as much separated from Christiana by
inaccessible precipices。 The village of Jarvis might perhaps have
communicated with the interior of Norway and Sweden by the river Sieg;
but to do this and to be thus brought into contact with civilization;
the Strom…fiord needed the presence of a man of genius。 Such a man did
actually appear there;a poet; a Swede of great religious fervor; who
died admiring; even reverencing this region as one of the noblest
works of the Creator。
Minds endowed by study with an inward sight; and whose quick
perceptions bring before the soul; as though painted on a canvas; the
contrasting scenery of this universe; will now apprehend the general
features of the Strom…fiord。 They alone; perhaps; can thread their way
through the tortuous channels of the reef; or flee with the battling
waves to the everlasting rebuff of the Falberg whose white peaks
mingle with the vaporous clouds of the pearl…gray sky; or watch with
delight the curving sheet of waters; or hear the rushing of the Sieg
as it hangs for an instant in long fillets and then falls over a
picturesque abatis of noble trees toppled confusedly together;
sometimes upright; sometimes half…sunken beneath the rocks。 It may be
that such minds alone can dwell upon the smiling scenes nestling among
the lower hills of Jarvis; where the luscious Northern vegetables
spring up in families; in myriads; where the white birches bend;
graceful as maidens; where colonnades of beeches rear their boles
mossy with the growth of centuries; where shades of green contrast;
and white clouds float amid the blackness of the distant pines; and
tracts of many…tinted crimson and purple shrubs are shaded endlessly;
in short; where blend all colors; all perfumes of a flora whose
wonders are still ignored。 Widen the boundaries of this limited
ampitheatre; spring upward to the clouds; lose yourself among the
rocks where the seals are lying and even then your thought cannot
compass the wealth of beauty nor the poetry of this Norwegian coast。
Can your thought be as vast as the ocean that bounds it? as weird as
the fantastic forms drawn by these forests; these clouds; these
shadows; these changeful lights?
Do you see above the meadows on that lowest slope which undulates
around the higher hills of Jarvis two or three hundred houses roofed
with 〃noever;〃 a sort of thatch made of birch…bark;frail houses;
long and low; looking like silk…worms on a mulberry…leaf tossed hither
by the winds? Above these humble; peaceful dwellings stands the
church; built with a simplicity in keeping with the poverty of the
villagers。 A graveyard surrounds the chancel; and a little farther on
you see the parsonage。 Higher up; on a projection of the mountain is a
dwelling…house; the only one of stone; for which reason the
inhabitants of the village call it 〃the Swedish Castle。〃 In fact; a
wealthy Swede settled in Jarvis about thirty years before this history
begins; and did his best to ameliorate its condition。 This little
house; certainly not a castle; built with the intention of leading the
inhabitants to build others like it; was noticeable for its solidity
and for the wall that inclosed it; a rare thing in Norway where;
notwithstanding the abundance of stone; wood alone is used for all
fences; even those of fields。 This Swedish house; thus protected
against the climate; stood on rising ground in the centre of an
immense courtyard。 The windows were sheltered by those projecting
pent…house roofs supported by squared trunks of trees which give so
patriarchal an air to Northern dwellings。 From beneath them the eye
could see the savage nudity of the Falberg; or compare the infinitude
of the open sea with the tiny drop of water in the foaming fiord; the
ear could hear the flowing of the Sieg; whose white sheet far away
looked motionless as it fell into its granite cup edged for miles
around with glaciers;in short; from this vantage ground the whole
landscape whereon our simple yet superhuman drama was about to be
enacted could be seen and noted。
The winter of 1799…1800 was one of the most severe ever known to
Europeans。 The Norwegian sea was frozen in all the fiords; where; as a
usual thing; the violence of the surf kept the ice from forming。 A
wind; whose effects were like those