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from the tractir or inn which has been erected for the
accommodation of the public。 Standing on the seat of the calash； I
addressed them in a loud voice in the English dialect of the
Rommany； of which I have some knowledge。 A shrill scream of wonder
was instantly raised； and welcomes and blessings were poured forth
in floods of musical Rommany； above all of which predominated the
cry of KAK CAMENNA TUTE PRALA … or； How we love you； brother！ … for
at first they mistook me for one of their wandering brethren from
the distant lands； come over the great panee or ocean to visit
them。
After some conversation they commenced singing； and favoured me
with many songs； both in Russian and Rommany： the former were
modern popular pieces； such as are accustomed to be sung on the
boards of the theatre； but the latter were evidently of great
antiquity； exhibiting the strongest marks of originality； the
metaphors bold and sublime； and the metre differing from anything
of the kind which it has been my fortune to observe in Oriental or
European prosody。
One of the most remarkable； and which commences thus：
'Za mateia rosherroro odolata
Bravintata；'
（or； Her head is aching with grief； as if she had tasted wine）
describes the anguish of a maiden separated from her lover； and who
calls for her steed：
'Tedjav manga gurraoro' …
that she may depart in quest of the lord of her bosom； and share
his joys and pleasures。
A collection of these songs； with a translation and vocabulary；
would be no slight accession to literature； and would probably
throw more light on the history of this race than anything which
has yet appeared； and； as there is no want of zeal and talent in
Russia amongst the cultivators of every branch of literature； and
especially philology； it is only surprising that such a collection
still remains a desideratum。
The religion which these singular females externally professed was
the Greek； and they mostly wore crosses of copper or gold； but when
I questioned them on this subject in their native language； they
laughed； and said it was only to please the Russians。 Their names
for God and his adversary are Deval and Bengel； which differ little
from the Spanish Un…debel and Bengi； which signify the same。 I
will now say something of
THE HUNGARIAN GYPSIES； OR CZIGANY
Hungary； though a country not a tenth part so extensive as the huge
colossus of the Russian empire； whose tzar reigns over a hundred
lands； contains perhaps as many Gypsies； it not being uncommon to
find whole villages inhabited by this race； they likewise abound in
the suburbs of the towns。 In Hungary the feudal system still
exists in all its pristine barbarity； in no country does the hard
hand of this oppression bear so heavy upon the lower classes … not
even in Russia。 The peasants of Russia are serfs； it is true； but
their condition is enviable compared with that of the same class in
the other country； they have certain rights and privileges； and
are； upon the whole； happy and contented； whilst the Hungarians are
ground to powder。 Two classes are free in Hungary to do almost
what they please … the nobility and … the Gypsies； the former are
above the law … the latter below it： a toll is wrung from the
hands of the hard…working labourers； that most meritorious class；
in passing over a bridge； for example at Pesth； which is not
demanded from a well…dressed person … nor from the Czigany； who
have frequently no dress at all … and whose insouciance stands in
striking contrast with the trembling submission of the peasants。
The Gypsy； wherever you find him； is an incomprehensible being； but
nowhere more than in Hungary； where； in the midst of slavery； he is
free； though apparently one step lower than the lowest slave。 The
habits of the Hungarian Gypsies are abominable； their hovels appear
sinks of the vilest poverty and filth； their dress is at best rags；
their food frequently the vilest carrion； and occasionally； if
report be true； still worse … on which point； when speaking of the
Spanish Gitanos； we shall have subsequently more to say： thus they
live in filth； in rags； in nakedness； and in merriness of heart；
for nowhere is there more of song and dance than in an Hungarian
Gypsy village。 They are very fond of music； and some of them are
heard to touch the violin in a manner wild； but of peculiar
excellence。 Parties of them have been known to exhibit even at
Paris。
In Hungary； as in all parts； they are addicted to horse…dealing；
they are likewise tinkers； and smiths in a small way。 The women
are fortune…tellers； of course … both sexes thieves of the first
water。 They roam where they list … in a country where all other
people are held under strict surveillance； no one seems to care
about these Parias。 The most remarkable feature； however；
connected with the habits of the Czigany； consists in their foreign
excursions； having plunder in view； which frequently endure for
three or four years； when； if no mischance has befallen them； they
return to their native land … rich； where they squander the
proceeds of their dexterity in mad festivals。 They wander in bands
of twelve and fourteen through France； even to Rome。 Once； during
my own wanderings in Italy； I rested at nightfall by the side of a
kiln； the air being piercingly cold； it was about four leagues from
Genoa。 Presently arrived three individuals to take advantage of
the warmth … a man； a woman； and a lad。 They soon began to
discourse … and I found that they were Hungarian Gypsies； they
spoke of what they had been doing； and what they had amassed … I
think they mentioned nine hundred crowns。 They had companions in
the neighbourhood； some of whom they were expecting； they took no
notice of me； and conversed in their own dialect； I did not approve
of their propinquity； and rising； hastened away。
When Napoleon invaded Spain there were not a few Hungarian Gypsies
in his armies； some strange encounters occurred on the field of
battle between these people and the Spanish Gitanos； one of which
is related in the second part of the present work。 When quartered
in the Spanish towns； the Czigany invariably sought out their
peninsular brethren； to whom they revealed themselves； kissing and
embracing most affectionately； the Gitanos were astonished at the
proficiency of the strangers in thievish arts； and looked upon them
almost in the light of superior beings： 'They knew the whole
reckoning；' is still a common expression amongst them。 There was a
Cziganian soldier for some time at Cordoba； of whom