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he raised a raging wind； and drove before it Pharaoh and his armies
to that hole； and the abyss received them； and the mountain closed
upon them； but whosoever goes to that mountain on the night of St。
John can hear Pharaoh and his armies singing and yelling therein。
And it came to pass； that when Pharaoh and his armies had
disappeared； all the kings and the nations which had become subject
to Egypt revolted against Egypt； which； having lost her king and
her armies； was left utterly without defence； and they made war
against her； and prevailed against her； and took her people and
drove them forth； dispersing them over all the world。'
So that now； say the Chai； 'Our horses drink the water of the
Guadiana' … （Apilyela gras Chai la panee Lucalee）。
'THE STEEDS OF THE EGYPTIANS DRINK THE WATERS OF THE GUADIANA
'The region of Chal was our dear native soil；
Where in fulness of pleasure we lived without toil；
Till dispersed through all lands； 'twas our fortune to be …
Our steeds； Guadiana； must now drink of thee。
'Once kings came from far to kneel down at our gate；
And princes rejoic'd on our meanest to wait；
But now who so mean but would scorn our degree …
Our steeds； Guadiana； must now drink of thee。
'For the Undebel saw； from his throne in the cloud；
That our deeds they were foolish； our hearts they were proud；
And in anger he bade us his presence to flee …
Our steeds； Guadiana； must now drink of thee。
'Our horses should drink of no river but one；
It sparkles through Chal； 'neath the smile of the sun；
But they taste of all streams save that only； and see …
Apilyela gras Chai la panee Lucalee。'
CHAPTER II
IN Madrid the Gitanos chiefly reside in the neighbourhood of the
'mercado；' or the place where horses and other animals are sold； …
in two narrow and dirty lanes； called the Calle de la Comadre and
the Callejon de Lavapies。 It is said that at the beginning of last
century Madrid abounded with these people； who； by their lawless
behaviour and dissolute lives； gave occasion to great scandal； if
such were the case； their numbers must have considerably diminished
since that period； as it would be difficult at any time to collect
fifty throughout Madrid。 These Gitanos seem； for the most part； to
be either Valencians or of Valencian origin； as they in general
either speak or understand the dialect of Valencia； and whilst
speaking their own peculiar jargon； the Rommany； are in the habit
of making use of many Valencian words and terms。
The manner of life of the Gitanos of Madrid differs in no material
respect from that of their brethren in other places。 The men；
every market…day； are to be seen on the skirts of the mercado；
generally with some miserable animal … for example； a foundered
mule or galled borrico； by means of which they seldom fail to gain
a dollar or two； either by sale or exchange。 It must not； however；
be supposed that they content themselves with such paltry earnings。
Provided they have any valuable animal； which is not unfrequently
the case； they invariably keep such at home snug in the stall；
conducting thither the chapman； should they find any； and
concluding the bargain with the greatest secrecy。 Their general
reason for this conduct is an unwillingness to exhibit anything
calculated to excite the jealousy of the chalans； or jockeys of
Spanish blood； who on the slightest umbrage are in the habit of
ejecting them from the fair by force of palos or cudgels； in which
violence the chalans are to a certain extent countenanced by law；
for though by the edict of Carlos the Third the Gitanos were in
other respects placed upon an equality with the rest of the
Spaniards； they were still forbidden to obtain their livelihood by
the traffic of markets and fairs。
They have occasionally however another excellent reason for not
exposing the animal in the public mercado … having obtained him by
dishonest means。 The stealing； concealing； and receiving animals
when stolen； are inveterate Gypsy habits； and are perhaps the last
from which the Gitano will be reclaimed； or will only cease when
the race has become extinct。 In the prisons of Madrid； either in
that of the Saladero or De la Corte； there are never less than a
dozen Gitanos immured for stolen horses or mules being found in
their possession； which themselves or their connections have
spirited away from the neighbouring villages； or sometimes from a
considerable distance。 I say spirited away； for so well do the
thieves take their measures； and watch their opportunity； that they
are seldom or never taken in the fact。
The Madrilenian Gypsy women are indefatigable in the pursuit of
prey； prowling about the town and the suburbs from morning till
night； entering houses of all descriptions； from the highest to the
lowest； telling fortunes； or attempting to play off various kinds
of Gypsy tricks； from which they derive much greater profit； and of
which we shall presently have occasion to make particular mention。
From Madrid let us proceed to Andalusia； casting a cursory glance
on the Gitanos of that country。 I found them very numerous at
Granada； which in the Gitano language is termed Meligrana。 Their
general condition in this place is truly miserable； far exceeding
in wretchedness the state of the tribes of Estremadura。 It is
right to state that Granada itself is the poorest city in Spain；
the greatest part of the population； which exceeds sixty thousand；
living in beggary and nakedness； and the Gitanos share in the
general distress。
Many of them reside in caves scooped in the sides of the ravines
which lead to the higher regions of the Alpujarras； on a skirt of
which stands Granada。 A common occupation of the Gitanos of
Granada is working in iron； and it is not unfrequent to find these
caves tenanted by Gypsy smiths and their families； who ply the
hammer and forge in the bowels of the earth。 To one standing at
the mouth of the cave； especially at night； they afford a
picturesque spectacle。 Gathered round the forge； their bronzed and
naked bodies； illuminated by the flame； appear like figures of
demons； while the cave； with its flinty sides and uneven roof；
blackened by the charcoal vapours which hover about it in festoons；
seems to offer no inadequate representation of fabled purgatory。
Working in iron was an occupation strictly forbidden to the Gitanos
by the ancient laws； on what account does not exactly appear；
though； perhaps； the trade of the smith was considered as too much
akin to that of the chalan to be permitted to them。 The Gypsy
smith of Granada is