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the essays of montaigne, v19-第15章

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from eating anything they think will do me harm; for in such matters I
never covet nor miss anything I do not see; but withal; if it once comes
in my sight; 'tis in vain to persuade me to forbear; so that when I
design to fast I must be kept apart from the suppers; and must have only
so much given me as is required for a prescribed collation; for if to
table; I forget my resolution。  When I order my cook to alter the manner
of dressing any dish; all my family know what it means; that my stomach
is out of order; and that I shall not touch it。

I love to have all meats; that will endure it; very little boiled or
roasted; and prefer them very high; and even; as to several; quite gone。
Nothing but hardness generally offends me (of any other quality I am as
patient and indifferent as any man I have known); so that; contrary to
the common humour; even in fish it often happens that I find them both
too fresh and too firm; not for want of teeth; which I ever had good;
even to excellence; and which age does not now begin to threaten; I have
always been used every morning to rub them with a napkin; and before and
after dinner。  God is favourable to those whom He makes to die by
degrees; 'tis the only benefit of old age; the last death will be so much
the less painful; it will kill but a half or a quarter of a man。  There
is one tooth lately fallen out without drawing and without pain; it was
the natural term of its duration; in that part of my being and several
others; are already dead; others half dead; of those that were most
active and in the first rank during my vigorous years; 'tis so I melt and
steal away from myself。  What a folly it would be in my understanding to
apprehend the height of this fall; already so much advanced; as if it
were from the very top!  I hope I shall not。  I; in truth; receive a
principal consolation in meditating my death; that it will be just and
natural; and that henceforward I cannot herein either require or hope
from Destiny any other but unlawful favour。  Men make themselves believe
that we formerly had longer lives as well as greater stature。  But they
deceive themselves; and Solon; who was of those elder times; limits the
duration of life to threescore and ten years。 I; who have so much and so
universally adored that 〃The mean is best;〃 of the passed time; and who
have concluded the most moderate measures to be the most perfect; shall
I pretend to an immeasurable and prodigious old age?  Whatever happens
contrary to the course of nature may be troublesome; but what comes
according to her should always be pleasant:

     〃Omnia; quae secundum naturam fiunt; sunt habenda in bonis。〃

     '〃All things that are done according to nature
     are to be accounted good。〃Cicero; De Senect。; c。 19。'

And so; says Plato; the death which is occasioned by wounds and diseases
is violent; but that which comes upon us; old age conducting us to it; is
of all others the most easy; and in some sort delicious:

          〃Vitam adolescentibus vis aufert; senibus maturitas。〃

     '〃Young men are taken away by violence; old men by maturity。〃
     Cicero; ubi sup。'

Death mixes and confounds itself throughout with life; decay anticipates
its hour; and shoulders itself even into the course of our advance。
I have portraits of myself taken at five…and…twenty and five…and…thirty
years of age。  I compare them with that lately drawn: how many times is
it no longer me; how much more is my present image unlike the former;
than unlike my dying one?  It is too much to abuse nature; to make her
trot so far that she must be forced to leave us; and abandon our conduct;
our eyes; teeth; legs; and all the rest to the mercy of a foreign and
haggard countenance; and to resign us into the hands of art; being weary
of following us herself。

I am not excessively fond either of salads or fruits; except melons。  My
father hated all sorts of sauces; I love them all。  Eating too much hurts
me; but; as to the quality of what I eat; I do not yet certainly know
that any sort of meat disagrees with me; neither have I observed that
either full moon or decrease; autumn or spring; have any influence upon
me。  We have in us motions that are inconstant and unknown; for example;
I found radishes first grateful to my stomach; since that nauseous; and
now again grateful。  In several other things; I find my stomach and
appetite vary after the same manner; I have changed again and again from
white wine to claret; from claret to white wine。

I am a great lover of fish; and consequently make my fasts feasts and
feasts fasts; and I believe what some people say; that it is more easy of
digestion than flesh。  As I make a conscience of eating flesh upon fish…
days; so does my taste make a conscience of mixing fish and flesh; the
difference betwixt them seems to me too remote。

From my youth; I have sometimes kept out of the way at meals; either to
sharpen my appetite against the next morning (for; as Epicurus fasted and
made lean meals to accustom his pleasure to make shift without abundance;
I; on the contrary; do it to prepare my pleasure to make better and more
cheerful use of abundance); or else I fasted to preserve my vigour for
the service of some action of body or mind: for both the one and the
other of these is cruelly dulled in me by repletion; and; above all
things; I hate that foolish coupling of so healthful and sprightly a
goddess with that little belching god; bloated with the fumes of his
liquor' Montaigne did not approve of coupling Bacchus with Venus。'
or to cure my sick stomach; or for want of fit company; for I say; as the
same Epicurus did; that one is not so much to regard what he eats; as
with whom; and I commend Chilo; that he would not engage himself to be at
Periander's feast till he was first informed who were to be the other
guests; no dish is so acceptable to me; nor no sauce so appetising; as
that which is extracted from society。  I think it more wholesome to eat
more leisurely and less; and to eat oftener; but I would have appetite
and hunger attended to; I should take no pleasure to be fed with three or
four pitiful and stinted repasts a day; after a medicinal manner: who
will assure me that; if I have a good appetite in the morning; I shall
have the same at supper?  But we old fellows especially; let us take the
first opportune time of eating; and leave to almanac…makers hopes and
prognostics。  The utmost fruit of my health is pleasure; let us take hold
of the present and known。  I avoid the invariable in these laws of
fasting; he who would have one form serve him; let him avoid the
continuing it; we harden ourselves in it; our strength is there stupefied
and laid asleep; six months after; you shall find your stomach so inured
to it; that all you have got is the loss of your liberty of doing
otherwise but to your prejudice。

I never keep my legs and thighs warmer in winter than in summer; one
simple pair of silk stockings is all。  I have suffered myself; for the
relief of my colds; to keep my head warmer; and my belly upon the account
of my colic: my diseases in a few days habituate themselves thereto; and
disdained my ordi
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