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arly part of the wet season had commenced。 I hoped now to get a good harvest of insects； and in some respects I was not disappointed。 Beetles became much more numerous； and under a thick bed of leaves that had accumulated on some rocks by the side of a forest stream； I found an abundance of Carbidae； a family generally scarce in the tropics。 The butterflies； however； disappeared。 Two of my servants were attacked with fever； dysentery； and swelled feet； just at the time that the third had left me； and for some days they both lay groaning in the house。 When they got a little better I was attacked myself； and as my stores were nearly finished and everything was getting very damp； I was obliged to prepare for my return to Macassar； especially as the strong westerly winds would render the passage in a small open boat disagreeable； if not dangerous。
Since the rains began； numbers of huge millipedes； as thick as one's finger and eight or ten inches long； crawled about everywherein the paths； on trees； about the houseand one morning when I got up I even found one in my bed！ They were generally of a dull lead colour or of a deep brick red； and were very nasty…looking things to be coming everywhere in one's way； although quite harmless。 Snakes too began to show themselves。 I killed two of a very abundant speciesbig…headed； and of a bright green colour； which lie coiled up on leaves and shrubs and can scarcely be seen until one is close upon them。 Brown snakes got into my net while beating among dead leaves for insects； and made me rather cautious about inserting my hand until I knew what kind of game I had captured。 The fields and meadows which had been parched and sterile； now became suddenly covered with fine long grass； the river…bed where I had so many times walked over burning rocks； was now a deep and rapid stream； and numbers of herbaceous plants and shrubs were everywhere springing up and bursting into flower。 I found plenty of new insects； and if I had had a good； roomy； water…and…wind…proof house； I should perhaps have stayed during the wet season； as I feel sure many things can then be obtained which are to be found at no other time。 With my summer hut； however； this was impossible。 During the heavy rains a fine drizzly mist penetrated into every part of it； and I began to have the greatest difficulty in keeping my specimens dry。
Early in November I returned to Macassar； and having packed up my collections； started in the Dutch mail steamer for Amboyna and Ternate。 Leaving this part of my journey for the present； I will in the next chapter conclude my account of Celebes； by describing the extreme northern part of the island which I visited two years later。
CHAPTER XVII。
CELEBES。
（MENADO。 JUNE TO SEPTEMBER； 1859。）
IT was after my residence at Timor…Coupang that I visited the northeastern extremity of Celebes； touching Banda； Amboyna； and Ternate on my way。 I reached Menado on the 10th of June； 1859； and was very kindly received by Mr。 Tower； an Englishman； but a very old resident in Menado； where he carries on a general business。 He introduced me to Mr。 L。 Duivenboden （whose father had been my friend at Ternate）； who had much taste for natural history； and to Mr。 Neys； a native of Menado； but who was educated at Calcutta； and to whom Dutch； English； and Malay were equally mother…tongues。 All these gentlemen showed me the greatest kindness； accompanied me in my earliest walks about the country； and assisted me by every means in their power。 I spent a week in the town very pleasantly； making explorations and inquiries after a good collecting station； which I had much difficulty in finding； owing to the wide cultivation of coffee and cacao； which has led to the clearing away of the forests for many miles around the town； and over extensive districts far into the interior。
The little town of Menado is one of the prettiest in the East。 It has the appearance of a large garden containing rows of rustic villas with broad paths between； forming streets generally at right angles with each other。 Good roads branch off in several directions towards the interior； with a succession of pretty cottages； neat gardens； and thriving plantations； interspersed with wildernesses of fruit trees。 To the west and south the country is mountainous； with groups of fine volcanic peaks 6；000 or 7；000 feet high； forming grand and picturesque backgrounds to the landscape。
The inhabitants of Minahasa （as this part of Celebes is called） differ much from those of all the rest of the island； and in fact from any other people in the Archipelago。 They are of a light… brown or yellow tint； often approaching the fairness of a European； of a rather short stature； stout and well…made； of an open and pleasing countenance； more or less disfigured as age increases by projecting check…bones； and with the usual long； straight； jet…black hair of the Malayan races。 In some of the inland villages where they may be supposed to be of the purest race； both men and women are remarkably handsome； while nearer the coasts where the purity of their blood has been destroyed by the intermixture of other races； they approach to the ordinary types of the wild inhabitants of the surrounding countries。
In mental and moral characteristics they are also highly peculiar。 They are remarkably quiet and gentle in disposition； submissive to the authority of those they consider their superiors； and easily induced to learn and adopt the habits of civilized people。 They are clever mechanics； and seem capable of acquiring a considerable amount of intellectual education。
Up to a very recent period these people were thorough savages； and there are persons now living in Menado who remember a state of things identical with that described by the writers of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries。 The inhabitants of the several villages were distinct tribes； each under its own chief； speaking languages unintelligible to each other； and almost always at war。 They built their houses elevated upon lofty posts to defend themselves from the attacks of their enemies。 They were headhunters like the Dyaks of Borneo； and were said to be sometimes cannibals。 When a chief died； his tomb was adorned with two fresh human heads； and if those of enemies could not be obtained； slaves were killed for the occasion。 Human skulls were the great ornaments of the chiefs' houses。 Strips of bark were their only dress。 The country was a pathless wilderness； with small cultivated patches of rice and vegetables； or clumps of fruit…trees； diversifying the otherwise unbroken forest。 Their religion was that naturally engendered in the undeveloped human mind by the contemplation of grand natural phenomena and the luxuriance of tropical nature。 The burning mountain； the torrent and the lake； were the abode of their deities； and certain trees and birds were supposed to have special influence over men's actions and destiny。 They held wild and exciting festivals to propitiate these deities or demons； and believed that men could be changed by them into animalseither during life or after death。
Here we have a picture of true savage life； of small isolated communities at war with all around them； subject to the wan