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And here I might （if I followed the example of most travellers） launch out into a glowing description of the charms of these damsels； the elegant costumes they wore； and the gold and silver ornaments with which they were adorned。 The jacket or body of purple gauze would figure well in such a description； allowing the heaving bosom to be seen beneath it； while 〃sparkling eyes；〃 and 〃jetty tresses；〃 and 〃tiny feet〃 might be thrown in profusely。 But； alas！ regard for truth will not permit me to expatiate too admiringly on such topics； determined as I am to give as far as I can a true picture of the people and places I visit。 The princesses were； it is true； sufficiently good… looking； yet neither their persons nor their garments had that appearance of freshness and cleanliness without which no other charms can be contemplated with pleasure。 Everything had a dingy and faded appearance； very disagreeable and unroyal to a European eye。 The only thing that excited some degree of admiration was the quiet and dignified manner of the Rajah and the great respect always paid to him。 None can stand erect in his presence； and when he sits on a chair； all present （Europeans of course excepted） squat upon the ground。 The highest seat is literally； with these people； the place of honour and the sign of rank。 So unbending are the rules in this respect； that when an English carriage which the Rajah of Lombock bad sent for arrived； it was found impossible to use it because the driver's seat was the highest； and it had to be kept as a show in its coach house。 On being told the object of my visit； the Rajah at once said that he would order a house to be emptied for me； which would be much better than building one； as that would take a good deal of time。 Bad coffee and sweetmeats were given us as before。
Two days afterwards； I called on the Rajah to ask him to send a guide with me to show me the house I was to occupy。 He immediately ordered a man to be sent for； gave him instructions； and in a few minutes we were on our way。 My conductor could speak no Malay； so we walked on in silence for an hour； when we turned into a pretty good house and I was asked to sit down。 The head man of the district lived here； and in about half an hour we started again； and another hour's walk brought us to the village where I was to be lodged。 We went to the residence of the village chief； who conversed with my conductor for some time。
Getting tired； I asked to be shown the house that was prepared for me； but the only reply I could get was； 〃Wait a little；〃 and the parties went on talking as before。 So I told them I could not wait； as I wanted to see the house and then to go shooting in the forest。 This seemed to puzzle them； and at length； in answer to questions； very poorly explained by one or two bystanders who knew a little Malay； it came out that no house was ready； and no one seemed to have the least idea where to get one。 As I did not want to trouble the Rajah any more； I thought it best to try to frighten them a little； so I told them that if they did not immediately find me a house as the Rajah had ordered； I should go back and complain to him； but that if a house was found me I would pay for the use of it。 This had the desired effect； and one of the head men of the village asked me to go with him and look for a house。 He showed me one or two of the most miserable and ruinous description； which I at once rejected； saying； 〃I must have a good one； and near to the forest。〃 The next he showed me suited very well； so I told him to see that it was emptied the next day； for that the day after I should come and occupy it。
On the day mentioned； as I was not quite ready to go； I sent my two Macassar boys with brooms to sweep out the house thoroughly。 They returned in the evening and told me that when they got there the house was inhabited； and not a single article removed。 However； on hearing they had come to clean and take possession； the occupants made a move； but with a good deal of grumbling； which made me feel rather uneasy as to how the people generally might take my intrusion into their village。 The next morning we took our baggage on three packhorses； and； after a few break… downs； arrived about noon at our destination。
After getting all my things set straight； and having made a hasty meal； I determined if possible to make friends with the people。 I therefore sent for the owner of the house and as many of his acquaintances as liked to come； to have a 〃bitchara；〃 or talk。 When they were all seated； I gave them a little tobacco all around； and having my boy Baderoon for interpreter； tried to explain to them why I came there； that I was very sorry to turn them out of the house； but that the Rajah had ordered it rather than build a new one； which was what I had asked for； and then placed five silver rupees in the owner's hand as one month's rent。 I then assured them that my being there would be a benefit to them； as I should buy their eggs and fowls and fruit； and if their children would bring me shells and insects； of which I showed them specimens； they also might earn a good many coppers。 After all this had been fully explained to them； with a long talk and discussion between every sentence； I could see that I had made a favourable impression； and that very afternoon； as if to test my promise to buy even miserable little snail…shells； a dozen children came one after another； bringing me a few specimens each of a small Helix； for which they duly received 〃coppers；〃 and went away amazed but rejoicing。
A few days' exploration made me well acquainted with the surrounding country。 I was a long way from the road in the forest which I had first visited； and for some distance around my house were old clearings and cottages。 I found a few good butterflies； but beetles were very scarce； and even rotten timber and newly… felled trees （generally so productive） here produced scarcely anything。 This convinced me that there was not a sufficient extent of forest in the neighbourhood to make the place worth staying at long； but it was too late now to think of going further； as in about a month the wet season would begin； so I resolved to stay here and get what was to be had。 Unfortunately； after a few days I became ill with a low fever which produced excessive lassitude and disinclination to all exertion。 In vain I endeavoured to shake it off； all I could do was to stroll quietly each day for an hour about the gardens near； and to the well； where some good insects were occasionally to be found； and the rest of the day to wait quietly at home； and receive what beetles and shells my little corps of collectors brought me daily。 I imputed my illness chiefly to the water； which was procured from shallow wells； around which there was almost always a stagnant puddle in which the buffaloes wallowed。 Close to my house was an enclosed mudhole where three buffaloes were shut up every night； and the effluvia from which freely entered through the open bamboo floor。 My Malay boy Ali was affected with the same illness； and as he was my chief bird…skinner I got on but slowly with my collections。
The occupations and mode of life of the villagers differed but little from those of a