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the malay archipelago-1-第59章

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omali〃 will preserve its produce from thieves as effectually as the threatening notice of man…traps; spring guns; or a savage dog would do with us。 The dead are placed on a stage; raised six or eight feet above the ground; sometimes open and sometimes covered with a roof。 Here the body remains until the relatives can afford to make a feast; when it is buried。 The Timorese are generally great thieves; but are not bloodthirsty。 They fight continually among themselves; and take every opportunity of kidnapping unprotected people of other tribes for slaves; but Europeans may pass anywhere through the country in safety。 Except for a few half…breeds in the town; there are no native Christians in the island of Timor。 The people retain their independence in a great measure; and both dislike and despise their would…be rulers; whether Portuguese or Dutch。

The Portuguese government in Timor is a most miserable one。 Nobody seems to care the least about the improvement of the country; and at this time; after three hundred years of occupation; there has not been a mile of road made beyond the town; and there is not a solitary European resident anywhere in the interior。 All the Government officials oppress and rob the natives as much as they can; and yet there is no care taken to render the town defensible should the Timorese attempt to attack it。 So ignorant are the military officers; that having received a small mortar and some shells; no one could be found who knew how to use them; and during an insurrection of the natives (while I was at Delli) the officer who expected to be sent against the insurgents was instantly taken ill! And they were allowed to get possession of an important pass within three miles of the town; where they could defend themselves against ten times the force。 The result was that no provisions were brought down from the hills; a famine was imminent; and the Governor had to send off to beg for supplies from the Dutch Governor of Amboyna。

In its present state Timor is more trouble than profit to its Dutch and Portuguese rulers; and it will continue to be so unless a different system is pursued。 A few good roads into the elevated districts of the interior; a conciliatory policy and strict justice towards the natives; and the introduction of a good system of cultivation as in Java and northern Celebes; might yet make Timor a productive and valuable island。 Rice grows well on the marshy flats; which often fringe the coast; and maize thrives in all the lowlands; and is the common food of the natives as it was when Dampier visited the island in 1699。 The small quantity of coffee now grown is of very superior quality; and it might be increased to any extent。 Sheep thrive; and would always be valuable as fresh food for whalers and to supply the adjacent islands with mutton; if not for their wool; although it is probable that on the mountains this product might soon be obtained by judicious breeding。 Horses thrive amazingly; and enough wheat might be grown to supply the whole Archipelago if there were sufficient inducements to the natives to extend its cultivation; and good roads by which it could be cheaply transported to the coast。

Under such a system the natives would soon perceive that European government was advantageous to them。 They would begin to save money; and property being rendered secure they would rapidly acquire new wants and new tastes; and become large consumers of European goods。 This would be a far surer source of profit to their rulers than imposts and extortion; and would be at the same time more likely to produce peace and obedience than the mock…military rule which has hitherto proved most ineffective。 To inaugurate such a system would however require an immediate outlay of capital; which neither Dutch nor Portuguese seem inclined to make; and a number of honest and energetic officials; which the latter nation at least seems unable to produce; so that it is much to be feared that Timor will for many years to come remain in its present state of chronic insurrection and misgovernment。

Morality at Delli is at as low an ebb as in the far interior of Brazil; and crimes are connived at which would entail infamy and criminal prosecution in Europe。 While I was there it was generally asserted and believed in the place; that two officers had poisoned the husbands of women with whom they were carrying on intrigues; and with whom they immediately cohabited on the death of their rivals。 Yet no one ever thought for a moment of showing disapprobation of the crime; or even of considering it a crime at all; the husbands in question being low half…castes; who of course ought to make way for the pleasures of their superiors。

Judging from what I saw myself and by the descriptions of Mr。 Geach; the indigenous vegetation of Timor is poor and monotonous。 The lower ranges of the hills are everywhere covered with scrubby Eucalypti; which only occasionally grow into lofty forest trees。 Mingled with these in smaller quantities are acacias and the fragrant sandalwood; while the higher mountains; which rise to about six or seven thousand feet; are either covered with coarse grass or are altogether barren。 In the lower grounds are a variety of weedy bushes; and open waste places are covered everywhere with a nettle…like wild mint。 Here is found the beautiful crown lily; Gloriosa superba; winding among the bushes; and displaying its magnificent blossoms in great profusion。 A wild vine also occurs; bearing great irregular bunches of hairy grapes of a coarse but very luscious flavour。 In some of the valleys where the vegetation is richer; thorny shrubs and climbers are so abundant as to make the thickets quite impenetrable。

The soil seems very poor; consisting chiefly of decomposing clayey shales; and the bare earth and rock is almost everywhere visible。 The drought of the hot season is so severe that most of the streams dry up in the plains before they reach the sea; everything becomes burned up; and the leaves of the larger trees fall as completely as in our winter。 On the mountains from two to four thousand feet elevation there is a much moister atmosphere; so that potatoes and other European products can be grown all the year round。 Besides ponies; almost the only exports of Timor are sandalwood and beeswax。 The sandalwood (Santalum sp。) is the produce of a small tree; which grows sparingly in the mountains of Timor and many of the other islands in the far East。 The wood is of a fine yellow colour; and possesses a well…known delightful fragrance which is wonderfully permanent。 It is brought down to Delli in small logs; and is chiefly exported to China; where it is largely used to burn in the temples; and in the houses of the wealthy。

The beeswax is a still more important and valuable product; formed by the wild bees (Apis dorsata); which build huge honeycombs; suspended in the open air from the underside of the lofty branches of the highest trees。 These are of a semicircular form; and often three or four feet in diameter。 I once saw the natives take a bees' nest; and a very interesting sight it was。 In the valley where I used to collect insects; I one day saw three or four Timorese men and boys under a high tree; and
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