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stillness。 At this moment； when I stood there for the first time； the
mills upon the brooksides gave a voice to the quivering valley； the
poplars were laughing as they swayed； not a cloud was in the sky； the
birds sang； the crickets chirped；all was melody。 Do not ask me again
why I love Touraine。 I love it； not as we love our cradle； not as we
love the oasis in a desert； I love it as an artist loves art； I love
it less than I love you； but without Touraine； perhaps I might not now
be living。
Without knowing why； my eyes reverted ever to that white spot； to the
woman who shone in that garden as the bell of a convolvulus shines
amid the underbrush； and wilts if touched。 Moved to the soul； I
descended the slope and soon saw a village； which the superabounding
poetry that filled my heart made me fancy without an equal。 Imagine
three mills placed among islands of graceful outline crowned with
groves of trees and rising from a field of water；for what other name
can I give to that aquatic vegetation； so verdant； so finely colored；
which carpeted the river； rose above its surface and undulated upon
it； yielding to its caprices and swaying to the turmoil of the water
when the mill…wheels lashed it。 Here and there were mounds of gravel；
against which the wavelets broke in fringes that shimmered in the
sunlight。 Amaryllis； water…lilies； reeds； and phloxes decorated the
banks with their glorious tapestry。 A trembling bridge of rotten
planks； the abutments swathed with flowers； and the hand…rails green
with perennials and velvet mosses drooping to the river but not
falling to it； mouldering boats； fishing…nets； the monotonous sing…
song of a shepherd； ducks paddling among the islands or preening on
the 〃jard；〃a name given to the coarse sand which the Loire brings
down； the millers； with their caps over one ear； busily loading their
mules；all these details made the scene before me one of primitive
simplicity。 Imagine； also； beyond the bridge two or three farm…houses；
a dove…cote； turtle…doves； thirty or more dilapidated cottages；
separated by gardens； by hedges of honeysuckle； clematis； and jasmine；
a dunghill beside each door； and cocks and hens about the road。 Such
is the village of Pont…de…Ruan； a picturesque little hamlet leading up
to an old church full of character； a church of the days of the
Crusades； such a one as painters desire for their pictures。 Surround
this scene with ancient walnut…trees and slim young poplars with their
pale…gold leaves； dot graceful buildings here and there along the
grassy slopes where sight is lost beneath the vaporous； warm sky； and
you will have some idea of one of the points of view of this most
lovely region。
I followed the road to Sache along the left bank of the river；
noticing carefully the details of the hills on the opposite shore。 At
length I reached a park embellished with centennial trees； which I
knew to be that of Frapesle。 I arrived just as the bell was ringing
for breakfast。 After the meal； my host； who little suspected that I
had walked from Tours； carried me over his estate； from the borders of
which I saw the valley on all sides under its many aspects；here
through a vista； there to its broad extent； often my eyes were drawn
to the horizon along the golden blade of the Loire； where the sails
made fantastic figures among the currents as they flew before the
wind。 As we mounted a crest I came in sight of the chateau d'Azay；
like a diamond of many facets in a setting of the Indre； standing on
wooden piles concealed by flowers。 Farther on； in a hollow； I saw the
romantic masses of the chateau of Sache； a sad retreat though full of
harmony； too sad for the superficial； but dear to a poet with a soul
in pain。 I； too； came to love its silence； its great gnarled trees；
and the nameless mysterious influence of its solitary valley。 But now；
each time that we reached an opening towards the neighboring slope
which gave to view the pretty castle I had first noticed in the
morning； I stopped to look at it with pleasure。
〃Hey！〃 said my host； reading in my eyes the sparkling desires which
youth so ingenuously betrays； 〃so you scent from afar a pretty woman
as a dog scents game！〃
I did not like the speech； but I asked the name of the castle and of
its owner。
〃It is Clochegourde；〃 he replied； 〃a pretty house belonging to the
Comte de Mortsauf； the head of an historic family in Touraine； whose
fortune dates from the days of Louis XI。； and whose name tells the
story to which they owe their arms and their distinction。 Monsieur de
Mortsauf is descended from a man who survived the gallows。 The family
bear： Or； a cross potent and counter…potent sable； charged with a
fleur…de…lis or； and 'Dieu saulve le Roi notre Sire；' for motto。 The
count settled here after the return of the emigration。 The estate
belongs to his wife； a demoiselle de Lenoncourt； of the house of
Lenoncourt…Givry which is now dying out。 Madame de Mortsauf is an only
daughter。 The limited fortune of the family contrasts strangely with
the distinction of their names； either from pride； or； possibly； from
necessity； they never leave Clochegourde and see no company。 Until now
their attachment to the Bourbons explained this retirement； but the
return of the king has not changed their way of living。 When I came to
reside here last year I paid them a visit of courtesy； they returned
it and invited us to dinner； the winter separated us for some months；
and political events kept me away from Frapesle until recently。 Madame
de Mortsauf is a woman who would hold the highest position wherever
she might be。〃
〃Does she often come to Tours？〃
〃She never goes there。 However；〃 he added； correcting himself； 〃she
did go there lately to the ball given to the Duc d'Angouleme； who was
very gracious to her husband。〃
〃It was she！〃 I exclaimed。
〃She！ who？〃
〃A woman with beautiful shoulders。〃
〃You will meet a great many women with beautiful shoulders in
Touraine；〃 he said； laughing。 〃But if you are not tired we can cross
the river and call at Clochegourde and you shall renew acquaintance
with those particular shoulders。〃
I agreed； not without a blush of shame and pleasure。 About four
o'clock we reached the little chateau on which my eyes had fastened
from the first。 The building； which is finely effective in the
landscape； is in reality very modest。 It has five windows on the
front； those at each end of the facade； looking south； project about
twelve feet；an architectural device which gives the idea of two
towers and adds grace to the structure。 The middle window serves as a
door from which you descend through a double portico into a terraced
garden which joins the narrow strip of grass…land that skirts the
Indre along its whole course。 Though this meadow is separated from the
lower terrace； which is shaded by a double line of acacias and
Japanese ailanthus； by the country road； it nevertheless appears from
the house to be a part of the garden； for the road is sunken and
hemmed in on one side by the terrace； on the other side by a Norman
hedge。 The terraces being very well managed put enough distance
between the house and the river to avoid