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the diary of samuel pepys-第241章

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every street; and a most capacious market…place。  The city great; I think greater than Hereford。  But the minster most admirable; as big; I think; and handsomer than Westminster:  and a most large close about it; and horses for the officers thereof; and a fine palace for the Bishop。  So to my lodging back; and took out my wife and people to show them the town and church; but they being at prayers; we could not be shown the quire。  A very good organ; and I looked in and saw the Bishop; my friend Dr。 Ward。  Thence to the inns; and there not being able to hire coach…horses; and not willing to use our own; we got saddle…horses; very dear。  Boy that went to look for them 6d。  So the three women behind W。 Hewer; Murford; and our guide; and I single to Stonehenge; over the plain and some great hills; even to fright us。  Come thither; and find them as prodigious as any tales I ever heard of them; and worth going this journey to see。  God knows what their use was:  they are hard to tell; but yet may be told。  Gave the shepherd…woman; for leading our horses; 4d。  So back by Wilton; my Lord Pembroke's house; which we could not see; he being just coming to town; but the situation I do not like; nor the house at present much; it being in a low but rich valley。  So back home; and there being light we to the church; and there find them at prayers again; so could not see the quire; but I sent the women home; and I did go in and saw very many fine tombs; and among the rest some very ancient of the Montagus。  So home to dinner; and that being done; paid the reckoning; which was so exorbitant; and particular in rate of my horses; and 7s。 6d。 for bread and beer; that I was mad; and resolve to trouble the mistress about it; and get something for the poor; and come away in that humour:  2l。 5s。 6d。  Servants; 1s。 6d。; poor; 1s。; guide to the Stones; 2s。; poor woman in the street; 1s。; ribbands; 9d。; wash…woman; 1s。; sempstress for W。 Hewer; 3s。; lent W。 Hewer; 2s。  Thence about six o'clock; and with a guide went over the smooth plain indeed till night; and then by a happy mistake; and that looked like an adventure; we were carried out of our way to a town where we would lie; since we could not go as far as we would。  By and by to bed; glad of this mistake; because it seems; had we gone on as me pretended; we could not have passed with our coach; and must have lain on the plain all night。  This day from Salisbury I wrote by the post my excuse for not coming home; which I hope will do; for I am resolved to see the Bath; and; it may be; Bristol。

12th。  Friday。  Up; finding our beds good; but lousy; which made us merry。  We set out; the reckoning and servants coming to 9s。 6d。; my guide thither; 2s。; coachman advanced; 10s。  So rode a very good way; led to my great content by our landlord to Philips…Norton; with great pleasure; being now come into Somersetshire; where my wife and Deb。 mightily joyed thereat; 'They were natives of that county。'  I commending the country; as indeed it deserves。  And the first town we came to was Brekington; where we stopping for something for the horses; we called two or three little boys to us; and pleased ourselves with their manner of speech。  At Philips…Norton I walked to the church; and there saw a very ancient tomb of some Knight Templar; I think; and here saw the tombstone whereon there were only two heads cut; which the story goes; and creditably; were two sisters; called the Fair Maids of Foscott; that had two bodies upward and one belly; and there lie buried。  Here is also a very fine ring of six bells; and they mighty tuneable。  Having dined very well; 10s。; me come before night to the Bath; where I presently stepped out with my landlord; and saw the baths with people in them。  They are not so large as I expected; but yet pleasant; and the town most of stone; and clean; though the streets generally narrow。  I home; and being weary; went to bed without supper; the rest supping。

13th。  Saturday。  Up at four o'clock; being by appointment called up to the Cross Bath; where we were carried after one another; myself and wife and Betty Turner; Willet; and W。 Hewer。  And by and by; though we designed to have done before company come; much company come; very fine ladies; and the manner pretty enough; only methinks it cannot be clean to go so many bodies together in the same water。  Good conversation among them that are acquainted here; and stay together。  Strange to see how hot the water is; and in some places though this is the most temperate bath; the springs so hot as the feet not able to endure。  But strange to see; when women and men here; that live all the season in these waters; cannot but be parboiled and look like the creatures of the bath!  Carried away wrapped in a sheet; and in a chair home; and there one after another thus carried (I staying above two hours in the water) home to bed; sweating for an hour。  And by and by comes musick to play to me; extraordinary good as ever I heard at London almost any where:  5s。  Up to go to Bristoll about eleven o'clock; and paying my landlord that was our guide from Chiltren 10s。; and the serjeant of the bath 10s。; and the man that carried us in chairs 3s。 6d。; set out toward Bristoll; and come thither; the way bad; (in coach hired to spare our own horses;) but country good; about two o'clock; where set down at the Horse…shoe; and there being trimmed by a very handsome fellow; 2s。; walked with my wife and people through the city; which is in every respect another London; that one can hardly know it to stand in the country no more than that。  No carts; it standing generally on vaults; only dog…carts。  So to the Three Crowns Tavern I was directed; but when I came in; the master told me that he had newly given over the selling of wine; it seems grown rich:  and so went to the Sun; and there Deb。 going with W。 Hewer and Betty Turner to see her uncle; and leaving my wife with the mistress of the house; I to see the quay; which is a most large and noble place; and to see the new ship building by Bally; neither he nor Furzer 'Daniel Furzer; Surveyor to the Navy。' being in town。  It will be a fine ship。  Spoke with the foreman; and did give the boys that kept the cabin 2s。  Walked back to the Sun; where I find Deb。 come back; and with her; her uncle; a sober merchant; very good company; and so like one of our sober wealthy London merchants as pleased me mightily。  Here we dined; and much good talk with him; 7s。 6d。; a messenger to Sir John Knight; 'Mayor of Bristol 1663; and M。P。 for that city。'  who was not at home; 6d。  Then walked with him and my wife and company round the quay; and to the ship; and he showed me the Custom… house; and made me understand many things of the place; and led us through Marsh…street; where our girl was born。  But; Lord! the joy that was among the old poor people of the place; to see Mrs。 Willet's daughter; it seems her mother being a brave woman and mightily beloved!  And so brought us a back way by surprize to his house; where a substantial good house; and well furnished; and did give us good entertainment of strawberries; a whole venison…pasty cold; and plenty of brave wine; and above all Bristol milk:  where comes in another poor woman; who 
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