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as was thought by them all when they talked it over at San Jose； but
now the hours which they passed in the saddle seemed to be endless。
Their descent began from that ridge of which I have spoken； and they
had no sooner turned their faces down upon the mountain slopes
looking towards the Atlantic； than that passage of mud began to
which there was no cessation till they found themselves on the banks
of the Serapiqui river。 I doubt whether it be possible to convey in
words an adequate idea of the labour of riding over such a path。 It
is not that any active exertion is necessary；that there is
anything which requires doing。 The traveller has before him the
simple task of sitting on his mule from hour to hour； and of seeing
that his knees do not get themselves jammed against the trees； but
at every step the beast he rides has to drag his legs out from the
deep clinging mud； and the body of the rider never knows one moment
of ease。 Why the mules do not die on the road； I cannot say。 They
live through it； and do not appear to suffer。 They have their own
way in everything； for no exertion on the rider's part will make
them walk either faster or slower than is their wont。
On the day on which they entered the forest；that being the second
of their journey；Mrs。 Arkwright had asked for mercy； for
permission to escape that second stage。 On the next she allowed
herself to be lifted into her saddle after her mid…day rest without
a word。 She had tried to sleep； but in vain； and had sat within a
little hut； looking out upon the desolate scene before her； with her
baby in her lap。 She had this one comfort； that of all the
travellers； she； the baby； suffered the least。 They had now left
the high grounds； and the heat was becoming great； though not as yet
intense。 And then； the Indian guide； looking out slowly over the
forest； saw that the rain was not yet over。 He spoke a word or two
to one of his companions in a low voice and in a patois which Mrs。
Arkwright did not understand； and then going after the husband； told
him that the heavens were threatening。
〃We have only two leagues；〃 said Arkwright； 〃and it may perhaps hold
up。〃
〃It will begin in an hour；〃 said the Indian； 〃and the two leagues
are four hours。〃
〃And to…morrow；〃 asked Arkwright。
〃To…morrow； and to…morrow； and to…morrow it will still rain；〃 said
the guide； looking as he spoke up over the huge primeval forest。
〃Then we had better start at once；〃 said Arkwright； 〃before the
first falling drops frighten the women。〃 So the mules were brought
out； and he lifted his uncomplaining wife on to the blankets which
formed her pillion。 The file again formed itself； and slowly they
wound their way out from the small enclosure by which the hut was
surrounded；out from the enclosure on to a rough scrap of undrained
pasture ground from which the trees had been cleared。 In a few
minutes they were once more struggling through the mud。
The name of the spot which our travellers had just left is
Carablanco。 There they found a woman living all alone。 Her husband
was away； she told them； at San Jose； but would be back to her when
the dry weather came； to look up the young cattle which were
straying in the forest。 What a life for a woman！ Nevertheless； in
talking with Mrs。 Arkwright she made no complaint of her own lot；
but had done what little she could to comfort the poor lady who was
so little able to bear the fatigues of her journey。
〃Is the road very bad？〃 Mrs。 Arkwright asked her in a whisper。
〃Ah； yes； it is a bad road。〃
〃And when shall we be at the river？〃
〃It took me four days；〃 said the woman。
〃Then I shall never see my mother again；〃 and as she spoke Mrs。
Arkwright pressed her baby to her bosom。 Immediately after that her
husband came in； and they started。
Their path now led away across the slope of a mountain which seemed
to fall from the very top of that central ridge in an unbroken
descent down to the valley at its foot。 Hitherto； since they had
entered the forest； they had had nothing before their eyes but the
trees and bushes which grew close around them。 But now a prospect
of unrivalled grandeur was opened before them； if only had they been
able to enjoy it。 At the bottom of the valley ran a river； which；
so great was the depth； looked like a moving silver cord； and on the
other side of this there arose another mountain； steep but unbroken
like that which they were passing；unbroken； so that the eye could
stretch from the river up to the very summit。 Not a spot on that
mountain side or on their side either was left uncovered by thick
forest； which had stood there untouched by man since nature first
produced it。
But all this was nothing to our travellers； nor was the clang of the
macaws anything； or the roaring of the little congo ape。 Nothing
was gained by them from beautiful scenery； nor was there any fear
from the beasts of prey。 The immediate pain of each step of the
journey drove all other feelings from them； and their thoughts were
bounded by an intense desire for the evening halt。
And then； as the guide had prophesied； the rain began。 At first it
came in such small soft drops that it was found to be refreshing；
but the clouds soon gathered and poured forth their collected waters
as though it had not rained for months among those mountains。 Not
that it came in big drops； or with the violence which wind can give
it； beating hither and thither； breaking branches from the trees；
and rising up again as it pattered against the ground。 There was no
violence in the rain。 It fell softly in a long； continuous；
noiseless stream； sinking into everything that it touched；
converting the deep rich earth on all sides into mud。
Not a word was said by any of them as it came on。 The Indian
covered the baby with her blanket； closer than she was covered
before； and the guide who walked by Mrs。 Arkwright's side drew her
cloak around her knees。 But such efforts were in vain。 There is a
rain that will penetrate everything； and such was the rain which
fell upon them now。 Nevertheless； as I have said； hardly a word was
spoken。 The poor woman； finding that the heat of her cloak
increased her sufferings； threw it open again。
〃Fanny；〃 said her husband； 〃you had better let him protect you as
well as he can。〃
She answered him merely by an impatient wave of her hand； intending
to signify that she could not speak； but that in this matter she
must have her way。
After that her husband made no further attempt to control her。 He
could see； however； that ever and again she would have slipped
forward from her mule and fallen； had not the man by her side
steadied her with his hand。 At every tree he protected her knees
and feet； though there was hardly room for him to move between the
beast and the bank against which he was thrust。
And then； at last； that day's work was also over； and Fanny
Arkwright slipped from her pillion down into her husband's arms at
the door of another rancho in the forest。 Here there lived a large
family adding from year to year to the patch of ground which they
had rescued from the wood； and valiantly doing their par