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since then would subject us to assessment as real estate if we were in
the North。
Hurrying off to a little creek we began our ablutions； and it was not
long until Andrews declared that there was a perceptible sand…bar forming
in the stream； from what we washed off。 Dirt deposits of the Pliocene
era rolled off feet and legs。 Eocene incrustations let loose reluctantly
from neck and ears； the hair was a mass of tangled locks matted with nine
months' accumulation of pitch pine tar； rosin soot； and South Carolina
sand； that we did not think we had better start in upon it until we
either had the shock cut off； or had a whole ocean and a vat of soap to
wash it out with。
After scrubbing until we were exhausted we got off the first few outer
layersthe post tertiary formation； a geologist would term itand the
smell of many breakfasts cooking； coming down over the hill； set our
stomachs in a mutiny against any longer fasting。
We went back； rosy； panting； glowing； but happy； to get our selves some
breakfast。
Should Providence； for some inscrutable reason； vouchsafe me the years of
Methuselah； one of the pleasantest recollections that will abide with me
to the close of the nine hundredth and sixty…ninth year； will be of that
delightful odor of cooking food which regaled our senses as we came back。
From the boiling coffee and the meat frying in the pan rose an incense
sweeter to the senses a thousand times than all the perfumes of far
Arabia。 It differed from the loathsome odor of cooking corn meal as much
as it did from the effluvia of a sewer。
Our noses were the first of our senses to bear testimony that we had
passed from the land of starvation to that of plenty。 Andrews and I
hastened off to get our own breakfast； and soon had a half…gallon of
strong coffee； and a frying…pan full； of meat cooking over the firenot
one of the beggarly skimped little fires we had crouched over during our
months of imprisonment； but a royal； generous fire； fed with logs instead
of shavings and splinters； and giving out heat enough to warm a regiment。
Having eaten positively all that we could swallow； those of us who could
walk were ordered to fall in and march over to Wilmington。 We crossed
the branch of the river on a pontoon bridge； and took the road that led
across the narrow sandy island between the two branches； Wilmington being
situated on the opposite bank of the farther one。
When about half way a shout from some one in advance caused us to look
up； and then we saw； flying from a tall steeple in Wilmington； the
glorious old Stars and Stripes； resplendent in the morning sun； and more
beautiful than the most gorgeous web from Tyrian looms。 We stopped with
one accord； and shouted and cheered and cried until every throat was sore
and every eye red and blood…shot。 It seemed as if our cup of happiness
would certainly run over if any more additions were made to it。
When we arrived at the bank of the river opposite Wilmington； a whole
world of new and interesting sights opened up before us。 Wilmington；
during the last year…and…a…half of the war； was； next to Richmond； the
most important place in the Southern Confederacy。 It was the only port
to which blockade running was at all safe enough to be lucrative。 The
Rebels held the strong forts of Caswell and Fisher； at the mouth of Cape
Fear River； and outside； the Frying Pan Shoals； which extended along the
coast forty or fifty miles； kept our blockading fleet so far off； and
made the line so weak and scattered； that there was comparatively little
risk to the small； swift…sailing vessels employed by the blockade runners
in running through it。 The only way that blockade running could be
stopped was by the reduction of Forts Caswell and Fisher； and it was not
stopped until this was done。
Before the war Wilmington was a dull； sleepy North Carolina Town； with as
little animation of any kind as a Breton Pillage。 The only business was
the handling of the tar； turpentine； rosin； and peanuts produced in the
surrounding country； a business never lively enough to excite more than a
lazy ripple in the sluggish lagoons of trade。 But very new wine was put
into this old bottle when blockade running began to develop in
importance。 Then this Sleepy hollow of a place took on the appearance of
San Francisco in the hight of the gold fever。 The English houses engaged
in blockade running established branches there conducted by young men who
lived like princes。 All the best houses in the City were leased by them
and fitted up in the most gorgeous style。 They literally clothed
themselves in purple and fine linen and fared sumptuously every day； with
their fine wines and imported delicacies and retinue of servants to wait
upon them。 Fast young Rebel officers； eager for a season of dissipation；
could imagine nothing better than a leave of absence to go to Wilmington。
Money flowed like water。 The common sailorsthe scum of all foreign
portswho manned the blockade runners； received as high as one hundred
dollars in gold per month； and a bounty of fifty dollars for every
successful trip； which from Nassau could be easily made in seven days。
Other people were paid in proportion； and as the old proverb says； 〃What
comes over the Devil's back is spent under his breast；〃 the money so
obtained was squandered recklessly； and all sorts of debauchery ran riot。
On the ground where we were standing had been erected several large steam
cotton presses； built to compress cotton for the blockade runners。
Around them were stored immense quantities of cotton； and near by were
nearly as great stores of turpentine； rosin and tar。 A little farther
down the river was navy yard with docks； etc。； for the accommodation；
building and repair of blockade runners。 At the time our folks took Fort
Fisher and advanced on Wilmington the docks were filled with vessels。
The retreating Rebels set fire to everythingcotton； cotton presses；
turpentine； rosin； tar； navy yard； naval stores； timber； docks； and
vessels； and the fire made clean work。 Our people arrived too late to
save anything； and when we came in the smoke from the burned cotton；
turpentine； etc。； still filled the woods。 It was a signal illustration
of the ravages of war。 Here had been destroyed； in a few hours； more
property than a half…million industrious men would accumulate in their
lives。
Almost as gratifying as the sight of the old flag flying in triumph； was
the exhibition of our naval power in the river before us。 The larger
part of the great North Atlantic squadron； which had done such excellent
service in the reduction of the defenses of Wilmington； was lying at
anchor； with their hundreds of huge guns yawning as if ardent for more
great forts to beat down； more vessels to sink； more heavy artillery to
crush； more Rebels to conquer。 It seemed as if there were cannon enough
there to blow the whole Confederacy into kingdom…come。 All was life and
animation around the fleet。 On the decks the officers were pacing up and
down。 One on each vessel carried a long telescope； with which he almost
constantly swept the horizon。 Numberless small boats； each rowed by