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committing all sorts of depredations； that he had prepared the way for
his own destruction； and the Governor called upon all good citizens to
rise en masse； and assist in crushing the audacious invader。 Bridges
must be burned before and behind him； roads obstructed； and every inch of
soil resolutely disputed。
We enjoyed this。 It showed that the Rebels were terribly alarmed； and we
began to feel some of that confidence that 〃Sherman will come out all
right；〃 which so marvelously animated all under his command。
CHAPTER LXVII。
OFF TO CHARLESTONPASSING THROUGH THE RICE SWAMPSTWO EXTREMES OF
SOCIETYENTRY INTO CHARLESTONLEISURELY WARFARESHELLING THE CITY AT
REGULAR INTERVALSWE CAMP IN A MASS OF RUINSDEPARTURE FOR FLORENCE。
The train started in a few minutes after the close of the conversation
with the old Georgian； and we soon came to and crossed the Savannah River
into South Carolina。 The river was wide and apparently deep； the tide
was setting back in a swift； muddy current； the crazy old bridge creaked
and shook； and the grinding axles shrieked in the dry journals； as we
pulled across。 It looked very much at times as if we were to all crash
down into the turbid floodand we did not care very much if we did； if
we were not going to be exchanged。
The road lay through the tide swamp region of South Carolina； a peculiar
and interesting country。 Though swamps and fens stretched in all
directions as far as the eye could reach； the landscape was more grateful
to the eye than the famine…stricken； pine…barrens of Georgia； which had
become wearisome to the sight。 The soil where it appeared； was rich；
vegetation was luxuriant； great clumps of laurel showed glossy richness
in the greenness of its verdure； that reminded us of the fresh color of
the vegetation of our Northern homes； so different from the parched and
impoverished look of Georgian foliage。 Immense flocks of wild fowl
fluttered around us； the Georgian woods were almost destitute of living
creatures； the evergreen live…oak； with its queer festoons of Spanish
moss； and the ugly and useless palmettos gave novelty and interest to the
view。
The rice swamps through which we were passing were the princely
possessions of the few nabobs who before the war stood at the head of
South Carolina aristocracythey were South Carolina； in fact； as
absolutely as Louis XIV。 was France。 In their handsbut a few score in
numberwas concentrated about all there was of South Carolina education；
wealth； culture； and breeding。 They represented a pinchbeck imitation of
that regime in France which was happily swept out of existence by the
Revolution； and the destruction of which more than compensated for every
drop of blood shed in those terrible days。 Like the provincial 'grandes
seigneurs' of Louis XVI's reign； they were gay； dissipated and turbulent；
〃accomplished〃 in the superficial acquirements that made the 〃gentleman〃
one hundred years ago； but are grotesquely out of place in this sensible；
solid age； which demands that a man shall be of use； and not merely for
show。 They ran horses and fought cocks； dawdled through society when
young； and intrigued in politics the rest of their lives； with frequent
spice…work of duels。 Esteeming personal courage as a supreme human
virtue； and never wearying of prating their devotion to the highest
standard of intrepidity； they never produced a General who was even
mediocre； nor did any one ever hear of a South Carolina regiment gaining
distinction。 Regarding politics and the art of government as； equally
with arms； their natural vocations； they have never given the Nation a
statesman； and their greatest politicians achieved eminence by advocating
ideas which only attracted attention by their balefulness。
Still further resembling the French 'grandes seigneurs' of the eighteenth
century； they rolled in wealth wrung from the laborer by reducing the
rewards of his toil to the last fraction that would support his life and
strength。 The rice culture was immensely profitable； because they had
found the secret for raising it more cheaply than even the pauper laborer
of the of world could。 Their lands had cost them nothing originally； the
improvements of dikes and ditches were comparatively； inexpensive； the
taxes were nominal； and their slaves were not so expensive to keep as
good horses in the North。
Thousands of the acres along the road belonged to the Rhetts； thousands
to the Heywards； thousands to the Manigault the Lowndes； the Middletons；
the Hugers； the Barnwells； and the Elliotsall names too well known in
the history of our country's sorrows。 Occasionally one of their stately
mansions could be seen on some distant elevation； surrounded by noble old
trees； and superb grounds。 Here they lived during the healthy part of
the year； but fled thence to summer resort in the highlands as the
miasmatic season approached。
The people we saw at the stations along our route were melancholy
illustrations of the evils of the rule of such an oligarchy。 There was
no middle class visible anywherenothing but the two extremes。 A man
was either a 〃gentleman；〃 and wore white shirt and city…made clothes；
or he was a loutish hind； clad in mere apologies for garments。 We
thought we had found in the Georgia 〃cracker〃 the lowest substratum of
human society； but he was bright intelligence compared to the South
Carolina 〃clay…eater〃 and 〃sand…hiller。〃 The 〃cracker〃 always gave hopes
to one that if he had the advantage of common schools； and could be made
to understand that laziness was dishonorable； he might develop into
something。 There was little foundation for such hope in the average low
South Carolinian。 His mind was a shaking quagmire； which did not admit
of the erection of any superstructure of education upon it。 The South
Carolina guards about us did not know the name of the next town； though
they had been raised in that section。 They did not know how far it was
there； or to any place else； and they did not care to learn。 They had no
conception of what the war was being waged for； and did not want to find
out； they did not know where their regiment was going； and did not
remember where it had been； they could not tell how long they had been in
service； nor the time they had enlisted for。 They only remembered that
sometimes they had had 〃sorter good times；〃 and sometimes 〃they had been
powerful bad；〃 and they hoped there would be plenty to eat wherever they
went； and not too much hard marching。 Then they wondered 〃whar a
feller'd be likely to make a raise of a canteen of good whisky？〃
Bad as the whites were； the rice plantation negros were even worse；
if that were possible。 Brought to the country centuries ago； as brutal
savages from Africa； they had learned nothing of Christian civilization；
except that it meant endless toil； in malarious swamps； under the lash of
the taskmaster。 They wore； possibly； a little more clothing than their
Senegambian ancestors did； they ate corn meal； yams and rice； instead of
bananas； yams and rice； as their forefathers did； and they had learned a
bastard； almost unintelligible； English。 These were the sole