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States； or indeed in any of the States； without letters of introduction。 It is the custom of the country； and they are easily procured。 Without them everything is barren； for men do not travel in the States of America as they do in Europe； to see scenery and visit the marvels of old cities which are open to all the world。 The social and political life of the American must constitute the interest of the traveler； and to these he can hardly make his way without introductions。 I cannot part with the West without saying； in its favor； that there is a certain manliness about its men which gives them a dignity of their own。 It is shown in that very indifference of which I have spoken。 Whatever turns up； the man is still there； still unsophisticated and still unbroken。 It has seemed to me that no race of men requires less outward assistance than these pioneers of civilization。 They rarely amuse themselves。 Food； newspapers； and brandy smashes suffice for life； and while these last； whatever may occur； the man is still there in his manhood。 The fury of the mob does not shake him； nor the stern countenance of his present martial tyrant。 Alas！ I cannot stick to my text by calling him a just man。 Intelligence； energy； and endurance are his virtues。 Dirt； dishonesty； and morning drinks are his vices。 All native American women are intelligent。 It seems to be their birthright。 In the Eastern cities they have； in their upper classes； superadded womanly grace to this intelligence； and consequently they are charming as companions。 They are beautiful also； and； as I believe； lack nothing that a lover can desire in his love。 But I cannot fancy myself much in love with a Western lady； or rather with a lady in the West。 They are as sharp as nails； but then they are also as hard。 They know； doubtless； all that they ought to know； but then they know so much more than they ought to know。 They are tyrants to their parents； and never practice the virtue of obedience till they have half…grownup daughters of their own。 They have faith in the destiny of their country； if in nothing else； but they believe that that destiny is to be worked out by the spirit and talent of the young women。 I confess that for me Eve would have had no charms had she not recognized Adam as her lord。 I can forgive her in that she tempted him to eat the apple。 Had she come from the West country； she would have ordered him to make his meal； and then I could not have forgiven her。 St。 Louis should be； and still will be； a town of great wealth。 To no city can have been given more means of riches。 I have spoken of the enormous mileage of water communication of which she is the center。 The country around her produces Indian…corn； wheat； grasses； hemp； and tobacco。 Coal is dug even within the boundaries of the city； and iron mines are worked at a distance from it of a hundred miles。 The iron is so pure that it is broken off in solid blocks； almost free from alloy； and as the metal stands up on the earth's surface in the guise almost of a gigantic metal pillar； instead of lying low within its bowels； it is worked at a cheap rate； and with great certainty。 Nevertheless； at the present moment； the iron works of Pilot Knob； as the place is called； do not pay。 As far as I could learn； nothing did pay； except government contracts。
CHAPTER VI CAIRO AND CAMP WOOD。
To whatever period of life my days may be prolonged； I do not think that I shall ever forget Cairo。 I do not mean Grand Cairo； which is also memorable in its way； and a place not to be forgotten； but Cairo in the State of Illinois； which by native Americans is always called Caaro。 An idea is prevalent in the Statesand I think I have heard the same broached in Englandthat a popular British author had Cairo； State of Illinois； in his eye when； under the name of Eden； he depicted a chosen； happy spot on the Mississippi River； and told us how certain English immigrants fixed themselves in that locality； and there made light of those little ills of life which are incident to humanity even in the garden of the valley of the Mississippi。 But I doubt whether that author ever visited Cairo in midwinter； and I am sure that he never visited Cairo when Cairo was the seat of an American army。 Had he done so； his love of truth would have forbidden him to presume that even Mark Tapley could have enjoyed himself in such an Eden。 I had no wish myself to go to Cairo； having heard it but indifferently spoken of by all men； but my friend with whom I was traveling was peremptory in the matter。 He had heard of gun…boats and mortar…boats； of forts built upon the river； of Columbiads； Dahlgrens； and Parrotts； of all the pomps and circumstance of glorious war； and entertained an idea that Cairo was the nucleus or pivot of all really strategetic movements in this terrible national struggle。 Under such circumstances I was as it were forced to go to Cairo； and bore myself； under the circumstances； as much like Mark Tapley as my nature would permit。 I was not jolly while I was there certainly； but I did not absolutely break down and perish in its mud。 Cairo is the southern terminus of the Illinois Central Railway。 There is but one daily arrival there； namely； at half…past four in the morning； and but one dispatch； which is at half…past three in the morning。 Everything is thus done to assist that view of life which Mark Tapley took when he resolved to ascertain under what possible worst circumstances of existence he could still maintain his jovial character。 Why anybody should ever arrive at Cairo at half…past four A。M。； I cannot understand。 The departure at any hour is easy of comprehension。 The place is situated exactly at the point at which the Ohio and the Mississippi meet； and is； I should saymerely guessing on the mattersome ten or twelve feet lower than the winter level of the two rivers。 This gives it naturally a depressed appearance； which must have much aided Mark Tapley in his endeavors。 Who were the founders of Cairo I have never ascertained。 They are probably buried fathoms deep in the mud； and their names will no doubt remain a mystery to the latest ages。 They were brought thither； I presume； by the apparent water privileges of the place； but the water privileges have been too much for them； and by the excess of their powers have succeeded in drowning all the capital of the early Cairovians； and in throwing a wet blanket of thick； moist； glutinous dirt over all their energies。 The free State of Illinois runs down far south between the slave States of Kentucky to the east； and of Missouri to the west； and is the most southern point of the continuous free…soil territory of the Northern States。 This point of it is a part of a district called Egypt； which is as fertile as the old country from whence it has borrowed a name； but it suffers under those afflictions which are common to all newly…settled lands which owe their fertility to the vicinity of great rivers。 Fever and ague universally prevail。 Men and women grow up with their lantern faces like specters。 The children are prematurely old； and the earth； which is so fruitful； is hideous in its fertility。 Cairo and its immediate neighborhood must； I sup