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it。
The birds we came across in the country were singularly tame； even that
wild creature； the quail； would pick around in the grass at ease while we
inspected it and talked about it at leisure。 A small bird of the canary
species had to be stirred up with the butt…end of the whip before it
would move； and then it moved only a couple of feet。 It is said that
even the suspicious flea is tame and sociable in Bermuda； and will allow
himself to be caught and caressed without misgivings。 This should be
taken with allowance； for doubtless there is more or less brag about it。
In San Francisco they used to claim that their native flea could kick a
child over； as if it were a merit in a flea to be able to do that； as if
the knowledge of it trumpeted abroad ought to entice immigration。 Such a
thing in nine cases out of ten would be almost sure to deter a thinking
man from coming。
We saw no bugs or reptiles to speak of； and so I was thinking of saying
in print； in a general way； that there were none at all； but one night
after I had gone to bed； the Reverend came into my room carrying
something； and asked； 〃Is this your boot？〃 I said it was； and he said he
had met a spider going off with it。 Next morning he stated that just at
dawn the same spider raised his window and was coming in to get a shirt；
but saw him and fled。
I inquired； 〃Did he get the shirt？〃
〃No。〃
〃How did you know it was a shirt he was after？〃
〃I could see it in his eye。〃
We inquired around； but could hear of no Bermudian spider capable of
doing these things。 Citizens said that their largest spiders could not
more than spread their legs over an ordinary saucer； and that they had
always been considered honest。 Here was testimony of a clergyman against
the testimony of mere worldlingsinterested ones； too。 On the whole； I
judged it best to lock up my things。
Here and there on the country roads we found lemon； papaw； orange； lime；
and fig trees； also several sorts of palms； among them the cocoa； the
date； and the palmetto。 We saw some bamboos forty feet high； with stems
as thick as a man's arm。 Jungles of the mangrove tree stood up out of
swamps； propped on their interlacing roots as upon a tangle of stilts。
In drier places the noble tamarind sent down its grateful cloud of shade。
Here and there the blossomy tamarisk adorned the roadside。 There was a
curious gnarled and twisted black tree； without a single leaf on； it。
It might have passed itself off for a dead apple tree but for the fact
that it had a a star…like； red…hot flower sprinkled sparsely over its
person。 It had the scattery red glow that a constellation might have
when glimpsed through smoked glass； It is possible that our
constellations have been so constructed as to be invisible through smoked
glass； if this is so it is a great mistake。
We saw a tree that bears grapes； and just as calmly and unostentatiously
as a vine would do it。 We saw an India…rubber tree； but out of season；
possibly； so there were no shoes on it； nor suspenders； nor anything that
a person would properly expect to find there。 This gave it an
impressively fraudulent look。 There was exactly one mahogany tree on the
island。 I know this to be reliable； because I saw a man who said he had
counted it many a time and could not be mistaken。 He was a man with a
harelip and a pure heart； and everybody said he was as true as steel。
Such men are all too few。
One's eye caught near and far the pink cloud of the oleander and the red
blaze of the pomegranate blossom。 In one piece of wild wood the morning…
glory vines had wrapped the trees to their very tops； and decorated them
all over with couples and clusters of great bluebells…a fine and striking
spectacle； at a little distance。 But the dull cedar is everywhere； and
is the prevailing foliage。 One does not appreciate how dull it is until
the varnished； bright green attire of the infrequent lemon tree
pleasantly intrudes its contrast。 In one thing Bermuda is eminently
tropicalwas in May； at leastthe unbrilliant； slightly faded；
unrejoicing look of the landscape。 For forests arrayed in a blemishless
magnificence of glowing green foliage that seems to exult in its own
existence and can move the beholder to an enthusiasm that will make him
either shout or cry； one must go to countries that have malignant
winters。
We saw scores of colored farmers digging their crops of potatoes and
onions； their wives and children helpingentirely contented and
comfortable； if looks go for anything。 We never met a man； or woman； or
child anywhere in this sunny island who seemed to be unprosperous； or
discontented； or sorry about anything。 This sort of monotony became very
tiresome presently； and even something worse。 The spectacle of an entire
nation groveling in contentment is an infuriating thing。 We felt the
lack of something in this communitya vague； an indefinable； an elusive
something； and yet a lack。 But after considerable thought we made out
what it wastramps。 Let them go there； right now； in a body。 It is
utterly virgin soil。 Passage is cheap。 Every true patriot in America
will help buy tickets。 Whole armies of these excellent beings can be
spared from our midst and our polls； they will find a delicious climate
and a green； kind…hearted people。 There are potatoes and onions for all；
and a generous welcome for the first batch that arrives； and elegant
graves for the second。
It was the Early Rose potato the people were digging。 Later in the year
they have another crop； which they call the Garnet。 We buy their
potatoes （retail） at fifteen dollars a barrel； and those colored farmers
buy ours for a song； and live on them。 Havana might exchange cigars with
Connecticut in the same advantageous way； if she thought of it。
We passed a roadside grocery with a sign up； 〃Potatoes Wanted。〃 An
ignorant stranger； doubtless。 He could not have gone thirty steps from
his place without finding plenty of them。
In several fields the arrowroot crop was already sprouting。 Bermuda used
to make a vast annual profit out of this staple before firearms came into
such general use。
The island is not large。 Somewhere in the interior a man ahead of us had
a very slow horse。 I suggested that we had better go by him； but the
driver said the man had but a little way to go。 I waited to see；
wondering how he could know。 Presently the man did turn down another
road。 I asked； 〃How did you know he would？〃
〃Because I knew the man； and where he lived。〃
I asked him； satirically； if he knew everybody in the island； he
answered； very simply； that he did。 This gives a body's mind a good
substantial grip on the dimensions of the place。
At the principal hotel at St。 George's； a young girl； with a sweet；
serious face； said we could not be furnished with dinner； because we had
not been expected； and no preparation had been made。 Yet it was still an
hour before dinner…time。 We argued； she yielded not； we supplicated； she
was serene。 The hotel had not been expecting an inundation of two
people； and so it seemed that we should have to go home dinnerless。
I said we were not very hungry a f