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by Craigellachie Bridge； which Southey greatly admired； along
Speyside； to Ballindalloch and Inverallen； where Telford's new road
was in course of construction across the moors towards Forres。
The country for the greater part of the way was a wild waste； nothing
but mountains and heather to be seen； yet the road was as perfectly
made and maintained as if it had lain through a very Goschen。
The next stages were to Nairn and Inverness； from whence then
proceeded to view the important works constructed at the crossing
of the River Beauly：
〃At Lovat Bridge；〃 says Southey； 〃we turned aside and went four
miles up the river； along the Strathglass roadone of the new
works； and one of the most remarkable； because of the difficulty of
constructing it； and also because of the fine scenery which it
commands。。。。。
〃Lovat Bridge； by which we returned； is a plain； handsome structure
of five arches； two of 40 feet span； two of 50； and the centre one
of 60。 The curve is as little as possible。 I learnt in Spain to
admire straight bridges； But Mr。 Telford thinks there always ought
to be some curve to enable the rain water to run off； and because
he would have the outline look like the segment of a large circle；
resting on the abutments。 A double line over the arches gives a
finish to the bridge； and perhaps looks as well； or almost as well；
as balustrades； for not a sixpence has been allowed for ornament on
these works。 The sides are protected by water…wings； which are
embankments of stone； to prevent the floods from extending on
either side； and attacking the flanks of the bridge。〃
Nine miles further north； they arrived at Dingwall； near which a
bridge similar to that at Beauly； though wider； had been constructed
over the Conan。 From thence they proceeded to Invergordon； to
Ballintraed （where another pier for fishing boats was in progress）；
to Tain； and thence to Bonar Bridge； over the Sheir； twenty…four
miles above the entrance to the Dornoch Frith； where an iron
bridge； after the same model as that of Craigellachie； had been
erected。 This bridge is of great importance； connecting as it does
the whole of the road traffic of the northern counties with the
south。 Southey speaks of it as
〃A work of such paramount utility that it is not possible to look
at it without delight。 A remarkable anecdote；〃 he continues；
〃was told me concerning it。 An inhabitant of Sutherland； whose
father was drowned at the Mickle Ferry （some miles below the bridge）
in 1809； could never bear to set foot in a ferry…boat after the
catastrophe； and was consequently cut off from communication with
the south until this bridge was built。 He then set out on a journey。
'As I went along the road by the side of the water；' said he；
'I could see no bridge。 At last I came in sight of something
like a spider's web in the air。 If this be it； thought I； it will
never do！ But； presently； I came upon it； and oh！ it is the finest
thing that ever was made by God or man！'〃
Sixteen miles north…east of Bonar Bridge； Southey crossed Fleet
Mound； another ingenious work of his friend Telford； but of an
altogether different character。 It was thrown across the River
Fleet； at the point at which it ran into the estuary or little
land…locked bay outside； known as Loch Fleet。 At this point there
had formerly been a ford； but as the tide ran far inland； it could
only be crossed at low water； and travellers had often to wait for
hours before they could proceed on their journey。 The embouchure
being too wide for a bridge； Telford formed an embankment across
it； 990 yards in length； providing four flood…gates； each 12 feet
wide； at its north end； for the egress of the inland waters。
These gates opened outwards； and they were so hung as to shut with
the rising of the tide。 The holding back of the sea from the land
inside the mound by this means； had the effect of reclaiming a
considerable extent of fertile carse land； which； at the time of
Southey's visit；though the work had only been completed the year
before；was already under profitable cultivation。 The principal
use of the mound； however； was in giving support to the fine broad
road which ran along its summit； and thus completed the
communication with the country to the north。 Southey speaks in
terms of high admiration of 〃the simplicity； the beauty； and
utility of this great work。〃
This was the furthest limit of their journey； and the travellers
retraced their steps southward； halting at Clashmore Inn：
〃At breakfast；〃 says Southey； 〃was a handsome set of Worcester china。
Upon noticing it to Mr。 Telford； he told me that before these roads
were made； he fell in with some people from Worcestershire near the
Ord of Caithness； on their way northward with a cart load of
crockery； which they got over the mountains as best they could；
and； when they had sold all their ware； they laid out the money in
black cattle； which they then drove to the south。〃
The rest of Southey's journal is mainly occupied with a description
of the scenery of the Caledonian Canal； and the principal
difficulties encountered in the execution of the works； which were
still in active progress。 He was greatly struck with the flight of
locks at the south end of the Canal； where it enters Loch Eil near
Corpach：
〃There being no pier yet formed；〃 he says； 〃we were carried to and
from the boats on men's shoulders。 We landed close to the sea shore。
A sloop was lying in the fine basin above； and the canal was full
as far as the Staircase； a name given to the eight successive
locks。 Six of these were full and overflowing； and then we drew
near enough to see persons walking over the lock…gates。 It had
more the effect of a scene in a pantomime than of anything in real
life。 The rise from lock to lock is eight feet；sixty…four；
therefore； in all。 The length of the locks； including the gates
and abutments at both ends； is 500 yards； the greatest piece of
such masonry in the world； and the greatest work of the kind beyond
all comparison。
〃A panorama painted from this place would include the highest
mountain in Great Britain； and its greatest work of art。 That work
is one of which the magnitude and importance become apparent； when
considered in relation to natural objects。 The Pyramids would
appear insignificant in such a situation； for in them we should
perceive only a vain attempt to vie with greater things。 But here
we see the powers of nature brought to act upon a great scale；
in subservience to the purposes of men； one river created； another
（and that a huge mountain…stream） shouldered out of its place； and
art and order assuming a character of sublimity。 Sometimes a beck
is conducted under the canal； and passages called culverts serve as
a roadway for men and beasts。 We walked through one of these； just
lofty enough for a man of my stature to pass through with his hat
on。 It had a very singular effect to see pers