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of the coach to my former seat。 'Ah; did I not tell
you that you would be shaken to death?' inquired the
black man; when I was creeping along on my stomach。
But I gave him no reply。 Indeed; I was ashamed; and I
now write this as a warning to all strangers who are
inclined to ride in English stage…coaches; and take
an outside at; or; worse still; horror of horrors; a
seat in the basket。
〃From Harborough to Northampton I had a most dreadful
journey。 It rained incessantly; and as before we had
been covered with dust; so now we were soaked with
rain。 My neighbour; the young man who sat next me in
the middle; every now and then fell asleep; and when
in this state he perpetually bolted and rolled
against me; with the whole weight of his body; more
than once nearly pushing me from my seat; to which I
clung with the last strength of despair。 My forces
were nearly giving way; when at last; happily; we
reached Northampton; on the evening of the 14th July;
1782; an ever…memorable day to me。
〃On the next morning; I took an inside place for
London。 We started early in the morning。 The journey
from Northampton to the metropolis; however; I can
scarcely call a ride; for it was a perpetual motion;
or endless jolt from one place to another; in a close
wooden box; over what appeared to be a heap of unhewn
stones and trunks of trees scattered by a hurricane。
To make my happiness complete; I had three travelling
companions; all farmers; who slept so soundly that
even the hearty knocks with which they hammered their
heads against each other and against mine did not
awake them。 Their faces; bloated and discoloured by
ale and brandy and the knocks aforesaid; looked; as
they lay before me; like so many lumps of dead flesh。
〃I looked; and certainly felt; like a crazy fool when
we arrived at London in the afternoon。〃*'3'
'Image' The Basket Coach; 1780。
Arthur Young; in his books; inveighs strongly against the execrable
state of the roads in all parts of England towards the end of last
century。 In Essex he found the ruts 〃of an incredible depth;〃
and he almost swore at one near Tilbury。 〃Of all the cursed roads;
〃he says; 〃that ever disgraced this kingdom in the very ages of
barbarism; none ever equalled that from Billericay to the King's
Head at Tilbury。 It is for near twelve miles so narrow that a
mouse cannot pass by any carriage。 I saw a fellow creep under his
waggon to assist me to lift; if possible; my chaise over a hedge。
To add to all the infamous circumstances which concur to plague a
traveller; I must not forget the eternally meeting with chalk
waggons; themselves frequently stuck fast; till a collection of
them are in the same situation; and twenty or thirty horses may be
tacked to each to draw them out one by one!〃*'4' Yet will it be
believed; the proposal to form a turnpike…road from Chelmsford to
Tilbury was resisted 〃by the Bruins of the country; whose horses
were worried to death with bringing chalk through those vile
roads!〃
Arthur Young did not find the turnpike any better between Bury and
Sudbury; in Suffolk: 〃I was forced to move as slow in it;〃 he says;
〃as in any unmended lane in Wales。 For; ponds of liquid dirt; and
a scattering of loose flints just sufficient to lame every horse
that moves near them; with the addition of cutting vile grips
across the road under the pretence of letting the water off; but
without effect; altogether render at least twelve out of these
sixteen miles as infamous a turnpike as ever was beheld。〃 Between
Tetsworth and Oxford he found the so…called turnpike abounding in
loose stones as large as one's head; full of holes; deep ruts; and
withal so narrow that with great difficulty he got his chaise out
of the way of the Witney waggons。 〃Barbarous〃 and 〃execrable〃 are
the words which he constantly employs in speaking of the roads;
parish and turnpike; all seemed to be alike bad。 From Gloucester
to Newnham; a distance of twelve miles; he found a 〃cursed road;〃
〃infamously stony;〃 with 〃ruts all the way。〃 From Newnham to
Chepstow he noted another bad feature in the roads; and that was
the perpetual hills; 〃for;〃 he says; 〃you will form a clear idea of
them if you suppose the country to represent the roofs of houses
joined; and the road to run across them。〃 It was at one time even
matter of grave dispute whether it would not cost as little money
to make that between Leominster and Kington navigable as to make
it hard。 Passing still further west; the unfortunate traveller;
who seems scarcely able to find words to express his sufferings;
continues:
〃But; my dear Sir; what am I to say of the roads in
this country! the turnpikes! as they have the
assurance to call them and the hardiness to make one
pay for? From Chepstow to the half…way house between
Newport and Cardiff they continue mere rocky lanes;
full of hugeous stones as big as one's horse; and
abominable holes。 The first six miles from Newport
they were so detestable; and without either
direction…posts or milestones; that I could not well
persuade myself I was on the turnpike; but had
mistook the road; and therefore asked every one I
met; who answered me; to my astonishment; 'Ya…as!'
Whatever business carries you into this country;
avoid it; at least till they have good roads: if they
were good; travelling would be very pleasant。〃*'5'
At a subsequent period Arthur Young visited the northern counties;
but his account of the roads in that quarter is not more
satisfactory。 Between Richmond and Darlington he found them like to
〃dislocate his bones;〃 being broken in many places into deep holes;
and almost impassable; 〃yet;〃 says he; 〃the people will drink tea!〃
a decoction against the use of which the traveller is found
constantly declaiming。 The roads in Lancashire made him almost
frantic; and he gasped for words to express his rage。 Of the road
between Proud Preston and Wigan he says: 〃I know not in the whole
range of language terms sufficiently expressive to describe this
infernal road。 Let me most seriously caution all travellers who
may accidentally propose to travel this terrible country; to avoid
it as they would the devil; for a thousand to one they break their
necks or their limbs by overthrows or breakings…down。
They will here meet with ruts; which I actually measured; four feet
deep; and floating with mud only from a wet summer。 What;
therefore; must it be after a winter? The only mending it receives
is tumbling in some loose stones; which serve no other purpose than
jolting a carriage in the most intolerable manner。 These are not
merely opinions; but facts; for I actually passed three carts
broken down in those eighteen miles of execrable memory。〃*