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autobiography and selected essays-第39章

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vegetable organism; which contains a great deal of limethe so…

called Nullipora。  Beyond this; in the part of the edge of the reef

which is always covered by the breaking waves; the living; true;

reef…polypes make their appearance; and; in different forms; coat

the steep seaward face of the reef to a depth of one hundred or

even one hundred and fifty feet。  Beyond this depth the sounding…

lead rests; not upon the wall…like face of the reef; but on the

ordinary shelving sea…bottom。  And the distance to which a fringing

reef extends from the land corresponds with that at which the sea

has a depth of twenty or five…and…twenty fathoms。



If; as we have supposed; the sea could be suddenly withdrawn from

around an island provided with a fringing reef; such as the

Mauritius;'122' the reef would present the aspect of a terrace;

its seaward face; one hundred feet or more high; blooming with the

animal flowers of the coral; while its surface would be hollowed

out into a shallow and irregular moat…like excavation。



The coral mud; which occupies the bottom of the lagoon; and with

which all the interstices of the coral skeletons which accumulate

to form the reef are filled up; does not proceed from the washing

action of the waves alone; innumerable fishes; and other creatures

which prey upon the coral; add a very important contribution of

finely…triturated calcareous matter; and the corals and mud

becoming incorporated together; gradually harden and give rise to a

sort of limestone rock; which may vary a good deal in texture。

Sometimes it remains friable and chalky; but; more often; the

infiltration of water; charged with carbonic acid; dissolves some

of the calcareous matter; and deposits it elsewhere in the

interstices of the nascent rock; thus glueing and cementing the

particles together into a hard mass; or it may even dissolve the

carbonate of lime more extensively; and re…deposit it in a

crystalline form。  On the beach of the lagoon; where the coral sand

is washed into layers by the action of the waves; its grains become

thus fused together into strata of a limestone; so hard that they

ring when struck with a hammer; and inclined at a gentle angle;

corresponding with that of the surface of the beach。  The hard

parts of the many animals which live upon the reef become imbedded

in this coral limestone; so that a block may be full of shells of

bivalves and univalves; or of sea urchins; and even sometimes

encloses the eggs of turtles in a state of petrification。  The

active and vigorous growth of the reef goes on only at the seaward

margins; where the polypes are exposed to the wash of the surf; and

are thereby provided with an abundant supply of air and of food。

The interior portion of the reef may be regarded as almost wholly

an accumulation of dead skeletons。  Where a river comes down from

the land there is a break in the reef; for the reasons which have

been already mentioned。



The origin and mode of formation of a fringing reef; such as that

just described; are plain enough。  The embryos of the coral polypes

have fixed themselves upon the submerged shore of the island; as

far out as they could live; namely; to a depth of twenty or twenty…

five fathoms。  One generation has succeeded another; building

itself up upon the dead skeletons of its predecessor。  The mass has

been consolidated by the infiltration of coral mud; and hardened by

partial solution and redeposition; until a great rampart of coral

rock one hundred or one hundred and fifty feet high on its seaward

face has been formed all round the island; with only such gaps as

result from the outflow of rivers; in the place of sally…ports。



The structure of the rocky accumulation in the encircling reefs and

in the atolls is essentially the same as in the fringing reef。

But; in addition to the differences of depth inside and out; they

present some other peculiarities。  These reefs; and especially the

atolls; are usually interrupted at one part of their circumference;

and this part is always situated on the leeward side of the reef;

or that which is the more sheltered side。  Now; as all these reefs

are situated within the region in which the tradewinds prevail; it

follows that; on the north side of the equator; where the trade…

wind is a northeasterly wind; the opening of the reef is on the

southwest side: while in the southern hemisphere; where the trade…

winds blow from the southeast; the opening lies to the northwest。

The curious practical result follows from this structure; that the

lagoons to these reefs really form admirable harbours; if a ship

can only get inside them。  But the main difference between the

encircling reefs and the atolls; on the one hand; and the fringing

reefs on the other; lies in the fact of the much greater depth of

water on the seaward faces of the former。  As a consequence of this

fact; the whole of this face is not; as it is in the case of the

fringing reef; covered with living coral polypes。  For; as we have

seen; these polypes cannot live at a greater depth than about

twenty…five fathoms; and actual observation has shown that while;

down to this depth; the sounding…lead will bring up branches of

live coral from the outer wall of such a reef; at a greater depth

it fetches to the surface nothing but dead coral and coral sand。

We must; therefore; picture to ourselves an atoll; or an encircling

reef; as fringed for one hundred feet; or more; from its summit;

with coral polypes busily engaged in fabricating coral; while;

below this comparatively narrow belt; its surface is a bare and

smooth expanse of coral sand; supported upon and within a core of

coral limestone。  Thus; if the bed of the Pacific were suddenly

laid bare; as was just now supposed; the appearance of the reef…

mountains would be exactly the reverse of that presented by many

high mountains on land。  For these are white with snow at the top;

while their bases are clothed with an abundant and gaudily…coloured

vegetation。  But the coral cones would look grey and barren below;

while their summits would be gay with a richly…coloured parterre of

flowerlike coral polypes。



The practical difficulties of sounding upon; and of bringing up

portions of; the seaward face of an atoll or of an encircling reef;

are so great; in consequence of the constant and dangerous swell

which sets towards it; that no exact information concerning the

depth to which the reefs are composed of coral has yet been

obtained。  There is no reason to doubt; however; that the reef…cone

has the same structure from its summit to its base; and that its

sea…wall is throughout mainly composed of dead coral。



And now arises a serious difficulty。  If the coral polypes cannot

live at a greater depth than one hundred or one hundred and fifty

feet; how can they have built up the base of the reef…cone; which

may be two thousand feet; or more; below the surface of the sea?



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