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letters from high latitudes-第20章

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; like gigantic ocean waves; whose tumult has been suddenly frozen into stone;but the dread of the Geysir going off during my absence made me almost too fidgety to enjoy them。 The weather luckily remained beautiful; with the exception of one little spell of rain; which came to make us all the more grateful for the sunshine;and we fed like princes。 Independently of the game; duck; plover; ptarmigan; and bittern; with which our own guns supplied us; a young lamb was always in the larder;not to mention reindeer tongues; skier;a kind of sour curds; excellent when well made;milk; cheese whose taste and nature baffles description; biscuit and bread; sent us as a free gift by the lady of a neighbouring farm。 In fact; so noble is Icelandic hospitality; that I really believe there was nothing within fifty miles round we might not have obtained for the asking; had we desired it。 As for Fitz; he became quite the enfant gate of a neighbouring family。

Having unluckily caught cold; instead of sleeping in the tent; he determined to seek shelter under a solid roof…tree; and; conducted by our guide Olaf; set off on his pony at bed…time in search of a habitation。 The next morning he reappeared so unusually radiant that I could not help inquiring what good fortune had in the meantime befallen him: upon which he gave me such an account of his last night's reception at the farm; that I was almost tempted to bundle tent and beds down the throat of our irritable friend Strokr; and throw myself for the future upon the hospitality of the inhabitants。 It is true; I had read in Van Troil of something of the kind; but until now I never fully believed it。 The Doctor shall tell his own history。

〃No sooner;〃 said he; 〃had I presented myself at the door; and made known my errand; than I was immediately welcomed by the whole family; and triumphantly inducted into the guest quarters: everything the house could produce was set before me; and the whole society stood by to see that I enjoyed myself。 As I had but just dined an additional repast was no longer essential to my happiness; but all explanation was useless; and I did my best to give them satisfaction。 Immediately on rising from the table; the young lady of the house(old Van Troil says it is either the mother or the daughter of the house; if she be grown up; who performs this office)proposed by signs to conduct me to my apartment; taking in one hand a large plate of skier; and in the other a bottle of brandy; she led the way through a passage built of turf and stones to the place where I was to sleep。 Having watched her depositnot without misgivings; for I knew it was expected both should be disposed of before morningthe skier by my bedside; and the brandy…bottle under the pillow; I was preparing to make her a polite bow; and to wish her a very good night; when she advanced towards me; and with a winning grace difcult to resist; insisted upon helping me off with my coat; and then;proceeding to extremities;with my shoes and stockings。 At this most critical part of the proceedings; I naturally imagined her share of the performance would conclude; and that I should at last be restored to that privacy which at such seasons is generally considered appropriate。  Not a bit of it。 Before I knew where I was; I found myself sitting in a chair; in my shirt; trouserless; while my fair tire…woman was engaged in neatly folding up the ravished garments on a neighbouring chair。 She then in the most simple manner in the world; helped me into bed; tucked me up; and having said a quantity of pretty things in Icelandic; gave me a hearty kiss and departed。 If;〃 he added; 〃you see anything remarkable in my appearance; it is probably because

   'This very morn I've felt the sweet surprise     Of unexpected lips on sealed eyes;'〃

by which he poetically intimated the pleasing ceremony which had awaked him to the duties of the day。 I think it needless to subjoin that the Doctor's cold did not get better as long as we remained in the neighbourhood; and that; had it not been for the daily increasing fire of his looks; I should have begun to be alarmed at so protracted an indisposition。

We had now been keeping watch for three days over the Geysir; in languid expectation of the eruption which was to set us free。 All the morning of the fourth day I had been playing chess with Sigurdr; Fitzgerald was photographing; Wilson was in the act of announcing luncheon; when a cry from the guides made us start to our feet; and with one common impulse rush towards the basin。 The usual subterranean thunders had already commenced。 A violent agitation was disturbing the centre of the pool。 Suddenly a dome of water lifted itself up to the height of eight or ten feet;then burst; and fell; immediately after which a shining liquid column; or rather a sheaf of columns wreathed in robes of vapour; sprung into the air; and in a succession of jerking leaps; each higher than the last; flung their silver crests against the sky。 For a few minutes the fountain held its own; then all at once appeared to lose its ascending energy。  The unstable waters faltered; drooped; fell; 〃like a broken purpose;〃 back upon themselves; and were immediately sucked down into the recesses of their pipe。

The spectacle was certainly magnificent; but no description can give any idea of its most striking features。 The enormous wealth of water; its vitality; its hidden power;the illimitable breadth of sunlit vapour; rolling out in exhaustless profusion;all combined to make one feel the stupendous energy of nature's slightest movements。

And yet I do not believe the exhibition was so fine as some that have been seen: from the first burst upwards to the moment the last jet retreated into the pipe; was no more than a space of seven or eight minutes; and at no moment did the crown of the column reach higher than sixty or seventy feet above the surface of the basin。 Now; early travellers talk of three hundred feet; which must; of course; be fabulous; but many trustworthy persons have judged the eruptions at two hundred feet; while well…authenticated accountswhen the elevation of the jet has been actually measuredmake it to have attained a height of upwards of one hundred feet。

With regard to the internal machinery by which these waterworks are set in motion; I will only say that the most received theory seems to be that which supposes the existence of a chamber in the heated earth; almost; but not quite; filled with water; and communicating with the upper air by means of a pipe; whose lower orifice; instead of being in the roof; is at the side of the cavern; and BELOW the surface of the subterranean pond。 The water kept by the surrounding furnaces at boiling point; generates of course a continuous supply of steam; for which some vent must be obtained; as it cannot escape by the funnel; the lower mouth of which is under water; it squeezes itself up within the arching roof; until at last; compressed beyond all endurance; it strains against the rock; and pushing down the intervening waters with its broad; strong back; forces them below the level of the funnel; and dispersing part; and driving part before it; rushes forth in triumph to the upper air。 The fountains; therefore;
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