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annagja； the Hrafnagja； and the lava vale； called Thingvalla； that lies between them； I am doubtful。 Before coming to Iceland I had read every account that had been written of Thingvalla by any former traveller； and when I saw it； it appeared to me a place of which I had never heard； so I suppose I shall come to grief in as melancholy a manner as my predecessors； whose ineffectual pages whiten the entrance to the valley they have failed to describe。
Having superintendedas I think I mentioned to you in my last letterthe midnight departure of the cook； guides； and luggage； we returned on board for a good night's rest； which we all needed。 The start was settled for the next morning at eleven o'clock； and you may suppose we were not sorry to find； on waking； the bright joyous sunshine pouring down through the cabin skylight； and illuminating the white…robed； well…furnished breakfast…table with more than usual splendour。 At the appointed hour we rowed ashore to where our eight poniestwo being assigned to each of us； to be ridden alternatelywere standing ready bridled and saddled； at the house of one of our kindest friends。 Of course； though but just risen from breakfast； the inevitable invitation to eat and drink awaited us； and another half…hour was spent in sipping cups of coffee poured out for us with much laughter by our hostess and her pretty daughter。 At last； the necessary libations accomplished； we rose to go。 Turning round to Fitz； I whispered； how I had always understood it was the proper thing in Iceland for travellers departing on a journey to kiss the ladies who had been good enough to entertain them；little imagining he would take me at my word。 Guess then my horror； when I suddenly saw him； with an intrepidity I envied but dared not imitate； first embrace the mamma； by way of prelude； and then proceed； in the most natural manner possible； to make the same tender advances to the daughter。 I confess I remained dumb with consternation； the room swam round before me； I expected the next minute we should be packed neck and crop into the street； and that the young lady would have gone off into hysterics。 It turned out； however； that such was the very last thing she was thinking of doing。 With a simple frankness that became her more than all the boarding…school graces in the world； her eyes dancing with mischief and good humour； she met him half way； and pouting out two rosy lips； gave him as hearty a kiss as it might ever be the good fortune of one of us he…creatures to receive。 From that moment I determined to conform for the future to the customs of the inhabitants。
Fresh from favours such as these； it was not surprising we should start in the highest spirits。 With a courtesy peculiar to Iceland； Dr。 Hjaltelin； the most jovial of doctors；and another gentleman； insisted on conveying us the first dozen miles of our journey； and as we clattered away through the wooden streets； I think a merrier party never set out from Reykjavik。 In front scampered the three spare ponies； without bridles； saddles； or any sense of moral responsibility； flinging up their heels； biting and neighing like mad things； then came Sigurdr； now become our chief； surrounded by the rest of the cavalcade； and finally； at a little distance； plunged in profound melancholy； rode Wilson。 Never shall I forget his appearance。 During the night his head had come partially straight； but by way of precaution； I suppose； he had conceived the idea of burying it down to the chin in a huge seal…skin helmet I had given him against the inclemencies of the Polar Sea。 As on this occasion the thermometer was at 81 degrees； and a coup…de…soleil was the chief thing to be feared； a ton of fur round his skull was scarcely necessary。 Seamen's trousers； a bright scarlet jersey； and jack…boots fringed with cat…skin； completed his costume； and as he proceeded along in his usual state of chronic consternation； with my rifle slung at his back and a couple of telescopes over his shoulder； he looked the image of Robinson Crusoe； fresh from having seen the foot…print。
A couple of hours' ride across the lava plain we had previously traversed brought us to a river； where our Reykjavik friends； after showing us a salmon weir； finally took their leave； with many kind wishes for our prosperity。 On looking through the clear water that hissed and bubbled through the wooden sluice； the Doctor had caught sight of an apparently dead salmon； jammed up against its wooden bars； but on pulling him out； he proved to be still breathing； though his tail was immovably twisted into his mouth。 A consultation taking place； the Doctors both agreed that it was a case of pleurosthotonos； brought on by mechanical injury to the spine （we had just been talking of Palmer's trial）； and that he was perfectly fit for food。 In accordance with this verdict； he was knocked on the head； and slung at Wilson's saddle…bow。 Left to ourselves； we now pushed on as rapidly as we could； though the track across the lava was so uneven； that every moment I expected Snorro （for thus have I christened my pony） would be on his nose。 In another hour we were among the hills。 The scenery of this part of the journey was not very beautiful； the mountains not being remarkable either for their size or shape； but here and there we came upon pretty bits； not unlike some of the barren parts of Scotland； with quiet blue lakes sleeping in the solitude。
After wandering along for some time in a broad open valley； that gradually narrowed to a glen； we reached a grassy patch。 As it was past three o'clock； Sigurdr proposed a halt。
Unbridling and unsaddling our steeds； we turned them loose upon the pasture； and sat ourselves down on a sunny knoll to lunch。 For the first time since landing in Iceland I felt hungry； as； for the first time； four successive hours had elapsed without our having been compelled to take a snack。 The appetites of the ponies seemed equally good； though probably with them hunger was no such novelty。 Wilson alone looked sad。 He confided to me privately that he feared his trousers would not last such jolting many days； but his dolefulness； like a bit of minor in a sparkling melody； only made our jollity more radiant。 In about half an hour Sigurdr gave the signal for a start； and having caught； saddled； and bridled three unridden ponies； we drove Snorro and his companions to the front； and proceeded on our way rejoicing。 After an hour's gradual ascent through a picturesque ravine； we emerged upon an immense desolate plateau of lava； that stretched away for miles and miles like a great stony sea。 A more barren desert you cannot conceive。 Innumerable boulders； relics of the glacial period； encumbered the track。 We could only go at a foot…pace。 Not a blade of grass； not a strip of green； enlivened the prospect； and the only sound we heard was the croak of the curlew and the wail of the plover。 Hour after hour we plodded on； but the grey waste seemed interminable； boundless； and the only consolation Sigurdr would vouchsafe was； that our journey's end lay on this side of some purple mountains that peeped like the tents of a demon leaguer above the stony horizon。
As it was already eight o'clock； and we had been told the en