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in a condition to explore the island。 It seemed to be about three…quarters of a mile long； not very broad； and a complete rabbit…warren； in fact； I could not walk a dozen yards without tripping up in the numerous burrows by which the ground was honeycombed： at last； on turning a corner； we suddenly came on a dozen rabbits； gravely sitting at the mouths of their holes。 They were quite white； without ears； and with scarlet noses。 I made several desperate attempts to catch some of these singular animals； but though one or two allowed me to come pretty near； just as I thought my prize was secure； in some unaccountable mannerit made unto itself wings； and literally flew away！ Moreover； if my eyesight did not share the peculiar development which affected that of the Doctor's； I should say that these rabbits flew in PAIRS。 Red…nosed； winged rabbits！ I had never heard or read of the species； and I naturally grew enthusiastic in the chase； hoping to bring home a choice specimen to astonish our English naturalists。 With some difficulty we managed to catch one or two； which had run into their holes instead of flying away。 They bit and scratched like tiger…cats； and screamed like parrots； indeed； on a nearer inspection； I am obliged to confess that they assumed the appearance of birds； ＇Footnote： The Puffin （Alca arctica）。 In Icelandic； Soe papagoie； In Scotland； Priest； and in Cornwall； Pope。＇ which may perhaps account for their powers of flight。 A slight confusion still remains in my mind as to the real nature of the creatures。
At about nine o'clock we returned to breakfast； and the rest of the day was spent in taking leave of our friends； and organizing the baggage…train； which was to start at midnight； under the command of the cook。 The cavalcade consisted of eighteen horses； but of these only one…half were laden； two animals being told off to each burthen； which is shifted from the back of the one to that of the other every four hours。 The pack…saddles were rude； but serviceable articles； with hooks on either side； on which a pair of oblong little chests were slung； strips of turf being stuffed beneath to prevent the creature's back being galled。 Such of our goods as could not be conveniently stowed away in the chests were fitted on to the top； in whatever manner their size and weight admitted； each pony carrying about 140 lbs。 The photographic apparatus caused us the greatest trouble； and had to be distributed between two beasts。 As was to be expected； the guides who assisted us packed the nitrate of silver bath upside down； an outrage the nature of which you cannot appreciate。 At last everything was pretty well arranged；guns； powder； shot； tea…kettles； rice； tents； beds； portable soups； etc。 all stowed away；when the desponding Wilson came to me； his chin sweeping the ground； to saythat he very much feared the cook would die of the ride；that he had never been on horseback in his life；that as an experiment he had hired a pony that very morning at his own charges；had been run away with； but having been caught and brought home by an honest Icelander； was now lying downthat position being the one he found most convenient。
As the first day's journey was two…and…thirty miles； and would probably necessitate his being twelve or thirteen hours in the saddle； I began to be really alarmed for my poor chef； but finding on inquiry that these gloomy prognostics were entirely voluntary on the part of Mr。 Wilson； that the officer in question was full of zeal； and only too anxious to add horsemanship to his other accomplishments； I did not interfere。 As for Wilson himself； it is not a marvel if he should see things a little askew； for some unaccountable reason； he chose to sleep last night in the open air； on the top of a hen… coop； and naturally awoke this morning with a crick in his neck； and his face so immovably fixed over his left shoulder； that the efforts of all the ship's company have not been able to twist it back： with the help of a tackle； however； I think we shall eventually brace it square again。
At two we went to lunch with the Rector。 The entertainment bore a strong family likeness to our last night's dinner； but as I wanted afterwards to exhibit my magic lantern to his little daughter Raghnilder； and a select party of her young friends； we contrived to elude doing full justice to it。 During the remainder of the evening； like Job's children； we went about feasting from house to house； taking leave of friends who could not have been kinder had they known us all our lives； and interchanging little gifts and souvenirs。 With the Governor I have left a print from the Princess Royal's drawing of the dead soldier in the Crimea。 From the Rector of the cathedral church I have received some very curious booksalmost the first printed in the island； I have been very anxious to obtain some specimens of ancient Icelandic manuscripts； but the island has long since been ransacked of its literary treasures； and to the kindness of the French consul I am indebted for a charming little white fox； the drollest and prettiest little beast I ever saw。
Having dined on board the 〃Artemise；〃 we adjourned at eleven o'clock to the beach to witness the departure of the baggage。 The ponies were all drawn up in one long file； the head of each being tied to the tail of the one immediately before him。 Additional articles were stowed away here and there among the boxes。 The last instructions were given by Sigurdr to the guides； and everything was declared ready for a start。 With the air of an equestrian star； descending into the arena of Astley's Amphitheatre； the cook then stepped forward； made me a superb bow； and was assisted into the saddle。 My little cabin…boy accompanied him as aide…de…camp。
The jovial Wilson rides with us tomorrow。 Unless we get his head round during the night； he will have to sit facing his horse's tail； in order to see before him。
We do not seem to run any danger of falling short of provisions； as by all accounts there are birds enough in the interior of the country to feed an Israelitish emigration。
LETTER VII。
KISSESWILSON ON HORSEBACKA LAVA PLATEAUTHINGVALLA ALMANNAGIARABNAGIAOUR TENTTHE SHIVERED PLAIN WITCH…DROWNINGA PARLIAMENTARY DEBATE； A。 D。 1000 THANGBRAND THE MISSIONARYA GERMAN GNAT…CATCHERTHE MYSTICAL MOUNTAINSSIR OLAFHECKLASKAPTA JOKULTHE FIRE DELUGE OF 1783WE REACH THE GEYSIRSTROKRFITZ'S BONNE FORTUNEMORE KISSESAN ERUPTIONPRINCE NAPOLEON RETURNTRADEPOPULATIONA MUTINYTHE REINE HORTENSETHE SEVEN DUTCHMENA BALLLOW DRESSES NORTHWARD HO！
Reykjavik； July 7； 1856。
At last I have seen the famous Geysirs； of which every one has heard so much； but I have also seen Thingvalla； of which no one has heard anything。 The Geysirs are certainly wonderful marvels of nature； but more wonderful； more marvellous is Thingvalla； and if the one repay you for crossing the Spanish Sea； it would be worth while to go round the world to reach the other。
Of the boiling fountains I think I can give you a good idea； but whether I can contrive to draw for you anything like a comprehensible picture of the shape and nature of the Almannagja； the Hrafnagja； and the lava vale； called Thingvalla； that lies between them； I am doubtful。