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neration to generation； almost from the time of the Conquest。 Something of the kind was to be observed in the worthy company around me。 Many of their faces had evidently originated in a Gothic age； and been merely copied by succeeding generations； and there was one little girl； in particular； of staid demeanour； with a high Roman nose； and an antique vinegar aspect； who was a great favourite of the Squire's； being； as he said； a Bracebridge all over； and the very counterpart of one of his ancestors who figured in the court of Henry VIII。
The parson said grace； which was not a short； familiar one； such as is commonly addressed to the Deity； in these unceremonious days； but a long； courtly； well…worded one of the ancient school。
There was now a pause； as if something was expected； when suddenly the butler entered the hall with some degree of bustle； he was attended by a servant on each side with a large wax…light； and bore a silver dish； on which was an enormous pig's head； decorated with rosemary； with a lemon in its mouth； which was placed with great formality at the head of the table。 The moment this pageant made its appearance； the harper struck up a flourish； at the conclusion of which the young Oxonian； on receiving a hint from the Squire； gave； with an air of the most comic gravity； an old carol； the first verse of which was as follows：
〃Caput apri defero Reddens laudes Domino。 The boar's head in hand bring I； With garlands gay and rosemary。 I pray you all synge merily Qui estis in convivio。〃
Though prepared to witness many of these little eccentricities； from being apprised of the peculiar hobby of mine host； yet； I confess； the parade with which so odd a dish was introduced somewhat perplexed me； until I gathered from the conversation of the Squire and the parson that it was meant to represent the bringing in of the boar's head： a dish formerly served up with much ceremony； and the sound of minstrelsy and song； at great tables on Christmas Day。 〃I like the old custom；〃 said the Squire； 〃not merely because it is stately and pleasing in itself； but because it was observed at the College of Oxford； at which I was educated。 When I hear the old song chanted； it brings to mind the time when I was young and gamesomeand the noble old college…halland my fellow students loitering about in their black gowns； many of whom； poor lads； are now in their graves！〃
The parson； however； whose mind was not haunted by such associations； and who was always more taken up with the text than the sentiment； objected to the Oxonian's version of the carol： which he affirmed was different from that sung at college。 He went on； with the dry perseverance of a commentator； to give the college reading； accompanied by sundry annotations： addressing himself at first to the company at large； but finding their attention gradually diverted to other talk； and other objects； he lowered his tone as his number of auditors diminished； until he concluded his remarks； in an under voice； to a fat…headed old gentleman next him； who was silently engaged in the discussion of a huge plateful of turkey。*
* See Note E。
The table was literally loaded with good cheer； and presented an epitome of country abundance； in this season of overflowing larders。 A distinguished post was allotted to 〃ancient sirloin；〃 as mine host termed it； being； as he added； 〃the standard of old English hospitality； and a joint of goodly presence； and full of expectation。〃
There were several dishes quaintly decorated； and which had evidently something traditionary in their embellishments； but about which； as I did not like to appear over curious； I asked no questions。 I could not； however； but notice a pie； magnificently decorated with peacocks' feathers； in imitation of the tail of that bird； which overshadowed a considerable tract of the table。 This； the Squire confessed； with some little hesitation； was a pheasant… pie； though a peacock…pie was certainly the most authentical； but there had been such a mortality among the peacocks this season； that he could not prevail upon himself to have one killed。*
* See Note F。
It would be tedious； perhaps； to my wiser readers； who may not have that foolish fondness for odd and obsolete things to which I am a little given； were I to mention the other makeshifts of this worthy old humourist； by which he was endeavouring to follow up； though at humble distance； the quaint customs of antiquity。 I was pleased； however； to see the respect shown to his whims by his children and relatives； who； indeed； entered readily into the full spirit of them； and seemed all well versed in their parts； having doubtless been present at many a rehearsal。 I was amused； too； at the air of profound gravity with which the butler and other servants executed the duties assigned them； however eccentric。 They had an old… fashioned look； having； for the most part； been brought up in the household； and grown into keeping with the antiquated mansion； and the humours of its lord； and most probably looked upon all his whimsical regulations as the established laws of honourable housekeeping。 When the cloth was removed； the butler brought in a huge silver vessel of rare and curious workmanship； which he placed before the Squire。 Its appearance was hailed with acclamation； being the Wassail Bowl； so renowned in Christmas festivity。 The contents had been prepared by the Squire himself； for it was a beverage in the skilful mixture of which he particularly prided himself； alleging that it was too abstruse and complex for the comprehension of an ordinary servant。 It was a potation； indeed； that might well make the heart of a toper leap within him； being composed of the richest and raciest wines； highly spiced and sweetened； with roasted apples bobbing about the surface。*
* See Note G。
The old gentleman's whole countenance beamed with a serene look of indwelling delight； as he stirred this mighty bowl。 Having raised it to his lips； with a hearty wish of a merry Christmas to all present； he sent it brimming； around the board； for every one to follow his example； according to the primitive style； pronouncing it 〃the ancient fountain of good feeling； where all hearts met together。〃*
* See Note H。
There was much laughing and rallying； as the honest emblem of Christmas joviality circulated； and was kissed rather coyly by the ladies。 When it reached Master Simon he raised it in both hands； and with the air of a boon companion struck up an old Wassail chanson：
The browne bowle； The merry browne bowle； As it goes round about…a； Fill Still； Let the world say what it will； And drink your fill all out…a。
The deep canne； The merry deep canne； As thou dost freely quaff…a； Sing； Fling； Be as merry as a king； And sound a lusty laugh…a。*
* From 〃Poor Robin's Almanack。〃
Much of the conversation during dinner turned upon family topics； to which I was a stranger。 There was； however； a great deal of rallying of Master Simon about some gay widow； with whom he was accused of having a flirtation。 This attack