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letters-第95章

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 my arrival。  We exchanged some words in  Gitano; but they appeared to be very ignorant of the language; and  utterly unable to maintain a conversation in it。  They were  clamorous for a GABICOTE; or book; in Gypsy。  I refused it them;  saying that they could turn it to no profitable account; and  learning that they could read; promised them each a Testament in  Spanish。  This offer; however; they refused with disdain; saying  that they cared for nothing written in the language of the BUSNE or  Gentiles。  They then persisted in their demand; to which I at last  yielded; being unable to resist their importunity; whereupon they  accompanied me to the inn; and received what they so ardently  desired。'

I arrived at Cadiz on the second day of August; when I waited upon  Mr。 Brackenbury; the British consul…general。  His house; which is  the corner one at the entrance of the ALAMEDA or public walk;  enjoys a noble prospect of the bay; and is very large and  magnificent。  I had of course long been acquainted with Mr。 B。 by  reputation。  I knew that for many years he bad filled with  advantage to his native country and with honour to himself the  distinguished and highly responsible situation which he holds in  Spain。  I knew likewise that he was a good and pious Christian; and  moreover the firm and enlightened friend of the Bible Society。  Of  all this I was aware; but I had never enjoyed the advantage of  being personally acquainted with him。  I saw him now indeed for the  first time。  I was much struck with his appearance; there is much  dignity in his countenance; which is; however; softened by an  expression of good humour truly captivating and engaging。  His  manner is frank and affable in the extreme。  I am not going to  enter into minute details of our interview; which was a very  interesting one to myself。  He knew already the leading parts of my  history since my arrival in Spain; and made several comments  thereon which displayed his intimate knowledge of the situation of  Spain; as regards ecclesiastical matters; and the state of opinion  respecting religious innovation。  I was flattered to find that his  ideas in many points accorded with my own; and we were both  decidedly of opinion that; notwithstanding the great persecution  and outcry which had lately been raised against the Gospel; the  battle was by no means lost in Spain; and that we might yet hope to  see the holy cause triumph。

During my stay at Cadiz I experienced every kind of hospitality  from Mr。 B。 and his charming family。  Upon my departure he supplied  me with a letter of introduction to Mr。 Hay; the British consul at  Tangiers; which I have since learned was most flattering to myself  and worded in the most energetic manner。  I quitted Cadiz on the  morning of Sunday; the 4th August; in the steamer BALEAR; arriving  at Gibraltar on the evening of the same day。  Nothing particular  occurred to me during my stay at Gibraltar; where I engaged my  passage on board a small trading vessel for Tangiers。  We were  detained by various causes until Thursday the 8th; when we sailed  about noon; and assisted by a strong and favourable wind we reached  the harbour of Tangiers before sunset。  I was not permitted to go  on shore that night; my passport and bill of health having first to  be examined by the authorities。  Early however on the following  morning; Mr。 Hay; who had received Mr。 Brackenbury's letters of  introduction; sent a Moorish soldier and his own servant to conduct  me to his house; where he received me in the kindest manner。  He  bad already procured me a comfortable lodging in the house of a  Christian woman where I have remained ever since my arrival at  Tangiers; constantly receiving every species of attention and  civility from Ir。 Hay。

Tangiers stands on the side of a rather steep hill which rises  above the sea。  It is a walled town; and towards the water is  defended with batteries mounted with heavy cannon。  The streets are  very numerous and intersect each other in all directions; they are  narrow and precipitous; and the houses low; small and mean。  The  principal mosque; or JAMMA 'DJMAH' is rather a handsome edifice;  and its tower; or SUMAH; which is built of bricks of various  colours; presents a picturesque appearance when viewed from the  sea:  of its interior I can of course say little; as any Christian  who should venture to intrude would be instantly cast forth and  probably killed by the populace。  About half way up the hill within  the town there is a small market…place called in the language of  the country SOC。  It is surrounded with little shops or booths; in  which all kinds of dry fruits; such as dates; raisins; almonds; and  walnuts are exposed for sale; and also honey; soap; sugar; and such  other articles of grocery。  These little shops are not in general  kept by Moors; but by people from the country of Suz; who speak a  different language from the Moors; and are of a different race;  being a branch of the Berber stem; they are the grocers of Barbary  and are; in comparison with the Moors; an honest; peaceable; and  industrious people。  The castle of the Governor stands at the  northern extremity of Tangiers; on the top of a high eminence which  towers above the town; its outer walls embrace a very large portion  of ground; which is principally occupied by large edifices in the  greatest dilapidation and decay。  The castle itself when I visited  it was undergoing repair; during the absence of the pasha who has  since returned。  All its inlets and outlets and also the greatest  part of the apartments were choked up with ruins; rubbish; and  mortar。  The courtyard however is very fine; and is adorned with a  fountain distilling limpid water; which is a rare spectacle in  Tangiers where water is not in abundance。  At each end of this  court there is a hall of audience; highly magnificent in its way;  with a roof of rich fretted work in the old Moorish taste; such as  I have seen in the Alhambra of Granada; and in that truly fairy  palace the Alcazar of Seville。

Tangiers contains a population of about twenty thousand souls; of  which at least one…third are Jews:  the Christian portion does not  amount to about two hundred and fifty individuals; including the  various consuls and their families。  These latter gentlemen enjoy  considerable authority in the town; so much so that in all disputes  between Moors and Christians they alone are the judges; and their  decision is law; they are a very respectable body; being without  one exception exceedingly well…bred gentlemanly individuals; and  several of them; particularly Mr Hay; the British consul…general;  possessed of high literary attainments。  They enjoy very large  salaries from their respective governments; varying from ten to  sixteen thousand dollars per annum; so that; as all the necessaries  and indeed many of the luxuries of life may be obtained at a very  cheap price at Tangiers; they live in a state of magnificence more  akin to that of petty kings than consuls in general。  The most  perfect harmony exists amongst them; and if; at any time; any  little dispute occur between two or three of them; the rest  instantly interfere and arrange matters; and they are i
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