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my arrival。 We exchanged some words in Gitano; but they appeared to be very ignorant of the language; and utterly unable to maintain a conversation in it。 They were clamorous for a GABICOTE; or book; in Gypsy。 I refused it them; saying that they could turn it to no profitable account; and learning that they could read; promised them each a Testament in Spanish。 This offer; however; they refused with disdain; saying that they cared for nothing written in the language of the BUSNE or Gentiles。 They then persisted in their demand; to which I at last yielded; being unable to resist their importunity; whereupon they accompanied me to the inn; and received what they so ardently desired。'
I arrived at Cadiz on the second day of August; when I waited upon Mr。 Brackenbury; the British consul…general。 His house; which is the corner one at the entrance of the ALAMEDA or public walk; enjoys a noble prospect of the bay; and is very large and magnificent。 I had of course long been acquainted with Mr。 B。 by reputation。 I knew that for many years he bad filled with advantage to his native country and with honour to himself the distinguished and highly responsible situation which he holds in Spain。 I knew likewise that he was a good and pious Christian; and moreover the firm and enlightened friend of the Bible Society。 Of all this I was aware; but I had never enjoyed the advantage of being personally acquainted with him。 I saw him now indeed for the first time。 I was much struck with his appearance; there is much dignity in his countenance; which is; however; softened by an expression of good humour truly captivating and engaging。 His manner is frank and affable in the extreme。 I am not going to enter into minute details of our interview; which was a very interesting one to myself。 He knew already the leading parts of my history since my arrival in Spain; and made several comments thereon which displayed his intimate knowledge of the situation of Spain; as regards ecclesiastical matters; and the state of opinion respecting religious innovation。 I was flattered to find that his ideas in many points accorded with my own; and we were both decidedly of opinion that; notwithstanding the great persecution and outcry which had lately been raised against the Gospel; the battle was by no means lost in Spain; and that we might yet hope to see the holy cause triumph。
During my stay at Cadiz I experienced every kind of hospitality from Mr。 B。 and his charming family。 Upon my departure he supplied me with a letter of introduction to Mr。 Hay; the British consul at Tangiers; which I have since learned was most flattering to myself and worded in the most energetic manner。 I quitted Cadiz on the morning of Sunday; the 4th August; in the steamer BALEAR; arriving at Gibraltar on the evening of the same day。 Nothing particular occurred to me during my stay at Gibraltar; where I engaged my passage on board a small trading vessel for Tangiers。 We were detained by various causes until Thursday the 8th; when we sailed about noon; and assisted by a strong and favourable wind we reached the harbour of Tangiers before sunset。 I was not permitted to go on shore that night; my passport and bill of health having first to be examined by the authorities。 Early however on the following morning; Mr。 Hay; who had received Mr。 Brackenbury's letters of introduction; sent a Moorish soldier and his own servant to conduct me to his house; where he received me in the kindest manner。 He bad already procured me a comfortable lodging in the house of a Christian woman where I have remained ever since my arrival at Tangiers; constantly receiving every species of attention and civility from Ir。 Hay。
Tangiers stands on the side of a rather steep hill which rises above the sea。 It is a walled town; and towards the water is defended with batteries mounted with heavy cannon。 The streets are very numerous and intersect each other in all directions; they are narrow and precipitous; and the houses low; small and mean。 The principal mosque; or JAMMA 'DJMAH' is rather a handsome edifice; and its tower; or SUMAH; which is built of bricks of various colours; presents a picturesque appearance when viewed from the sea: of its interior I can of course say little; as any Christian who should venture to intrude would be instantly cast forth and probably killed by the populace。 About half way up the hill within the town there is a small market…place called in the language of the country SOC。 It is surrounded with little shops or booths; in which all kinds of dry fruits; such as dates; raisins; almonds; and walnuts are exposed for sale; and also honey; soap; sugar; and such other articles of grocery。 These little shops are not in general kept by Moors; but by people from the country of Suz; who speak a different language from the Moors; and are of a different race; being a branch of the Berber stem; they are the grocers of Barbary and are; in comparison with the Moors; an honest; peaceable; and industrious people。 The castle of the Governor stands at the northern extremity of Tangiers; on the top of a high eminence which towers above the town; its outer walls embrace a very large portion of ground; which is principally occupied by large edifices in the greatest dilapidation and decay。 The castle itself when I visited it was undergoing repair; during the absence of the pasha who has since returned。 All its inlets and outlets and also the greatest part of the apartments were choked up with ruins; rubbish; and mortar。 The courtyard however is very fine; and is adorned with a fountain distilling limpid water; which is a rare spectacle in Tangiers where water is not in abundance。 At each end of this court there is a hall of audience; highly magnificent in its way; with a roof of rich fretted work in the old Moorish taste; such as I have seen in the Alhambra of Granada; and in that truly fairy palace the Alcazar of Seville。
Tangiers contains a population of about twenty thousand souls; of which at least one…third are Jews: the Christian portion does not amount to about two hundred and fifty individuals; including the various consuls and their families。 These latter gentlemen enjoy considerable authority in the town; so much so that in all disputes between Moors and Christians they alone are the judges; and their decision is law; they are a very respectable body; being without one exception exceedingly well…bred gentlemanly individuals; and several of them; particularly Mr Hay; the British consul…general; possessed of high literary attainments。 They enjoy very large salaries from their respective governments; varying from ten to sixteen thousand dollars per annum; so that; as all the necessaries and indeed many of the luxuries of life may be obtained at a very cheap price at Tangiers; they live in a state of magnificence more akin to that of petty kings than consuls in general。 The most perfect harmony exists amongst them; and if; at any time; any little dispute occur between two or three of them; the rest instantly interfere and arrange matters; and they are i