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e tall and fair like that family。' I sat down amongst them and said I was no Catalan； but I came from a spot in the western sea many leagues distant to sell that book at half the price it cost； and that their souls' welfare depended upon their being acquainted with it。 I then explained to them the nature of the New Testament and read to them the Parable of the Sower。 They stared at each other again； but said that they were poor and could not buy books。 I rose； mounted； and was going away； saying to them： 'Peace bide with you。' Whereupon the young man with the gun rose； and saying； 'CASPITA！ this is odd；' snatched the book from my hand； and gave me the price I had demanded。
Perhaps the whole world might be searched in vain for a spot whose natural charms could rival those of this plain or valley of Bembibre； with its wall of mighty mountains； its spreading chestnut…trees； and its groves of oaks and willows which clothe the banks of its stream； a tributary to the Minho。 True it is that when I passed through it the candle of heaven was blazing in full splendour； and everything lighted by its rays looked gay； glad and blessed。 Whether it would have filled me with the same feelings of admiration if viewed beneath another sky I will not pretend to determine； but it certainly possessed advantages which at no time could fail to delight； for it exhibited all the peaceful beauties of an English landscape blended with something wild and grand； and I thought within myself that he must be a restless dissatisfied man who born amongst those scenes would wish to quit them。 At the time I would have desired no better fate than that of a shepherd on the prairies or a hunter on the hills of Bembibre。
Three hours passed away； and we were in another situation。 We had halted and refreshed ourselves and horses at Bembibre； a village of mud and slate； and which possessed little to attract attention。 We were now ascending； for the road was over one of the extreme ledges of those frontier hills which I have before so often mentioned； but the aspect of heaven had blackened； clouds were rolling rapidly from the west over the mountains； and a cold wind was moaning dismally。 'There is a storm travelling through the air；' said a peasant； whom we overtook mounted on a wretched mule； 'and the Asturians had better be on the look…out； for it is speeding in their direction。' He had scarce spoken when a light so vivid and dazzling that it seemed the whole lustre of the fiery element was concentrated therein broke around us； filling the whole atmosphere； and covering rock； tree and mountain with a glare indescribable。 The mule of the peasant tumbled prostrate； while the horse I rode reared himself perpendicularly； and turning round dashed down the hill at headlong speed which for some time it was impossible to check。 The lightning was followed by a peal almost as terrible； but distant； for it sounded hollow and deep； the hills； however； caught up its voice； seemingly pitching it along their summits； till it was lost in interminable space。 Other flashes and peals succeeded； but slight in comparison； and a few drops of rain； the body of the tempest seemed to be over another region。 'A hundred families are weeping where that bolt fell；' said the peasant； when I rejoined him； 'for its blaze has blinded my mule at six leagues' distance。' He was leading the animal by the bridle； as its sight was evidently affected。 'Were the friars still in their nest above there；' he continued； 'I should say that this was their doing； for they are the cause of all the miseries of the land。'
I raised my eyes in the direction in which he pointed。 Half…way up the mountain over whose foot we were wending jutted forth a black； frightful crag； which at an immense altitude overhung the road and seemed to threaten destruction。 It resembled one of those ledges of the rocky mountains in the picture of the deluge； up to which the terrified fugitives have scrambled from the eager pursuit of the savage and tremendous billow； down on which they are gazing in horror； whilst above them rise still higher and giddier heights to which they seem unable to climb。 Built on the very rim of this crag stood an edifice； seemingly devoted to the purposes of religion； as I could discern the spire of a church rearing itself high over wall and roof。 'That is the house of 〃The Virgin of the Rocks；〃' said the peasant； 'and it was lately full of friars； but they have been driven out； and the only inmates now are owls and ravens。' I replied that their life in such a bleak exposed abode could not have been very enviable； as in winter they must have incurred great risk of perishing with cold。 'By no means；' said he； 'they had the best of wood for their BRASEROS and chimneys； and the best of wine to warm them at their meals； which were not the most sparing； moreover they had another convent down in the vale yonder； to which they could retire at their pleasure。' I asked him the reason of his antipathy to the friars； to which he replied that he had been their vassal； and that they had deprived him every year of the flower of what he possessed。 Discoursing in this manner we reached a village just below the convent； where he left me； having first pointed out to me a house of stone with an image over the door； which he said once also belonged to the CANALLA （rabble） above。
The sun was setting fast； and； eager to reach Villafranca； where I had determined on resting and which was still distant three leagues and a half； I made no halt at this place。 The road was now down a rapid and crooked descent which terminated in a valley； at the bottom of which was a long and narrow bridge。 Beneath it rolled a river descending from a wide pass between two mountains； for the chain was here cleft probably by some convulsion of nature。 I looked up the pass and on the hills on both sides。 Far above on my right； but standing out bold and clear； and catching the last rays of the sun； was 'the Convent of the Precipices'； whilst directly over against it； on the further side of the valley； rose the perpendicular side of the rival hill which； to a considerable extent intercepting the light； flung its black shadow over the upper end of the pass； involving it in mysterious darkness。 Emerging from the centre of this gloom with thundering sound dashed a river； white with foam and bearing along with it huge stones and branches of trees； for it was the wild Sil； probably at that ＇time＇ swollen by the recent rains； which I now saw hurrying to the ocean from its cradle in the heart of the Asturian hills。 Its fury； its roar； and the savage grandeur of the surrounding scenery which was worthy of the pencil of Salvator recalled to my mind the powerful lines of Stolberg addressed to a mountain torrent …
'The pine…trees are shaken； they yield to thy shocks； And； crashing； they tumble in wild disarray； The rocks fly before thee … thou seizest the rocks And whirlst them； like pebbles； contemptuous away。'
Hours again passed away。 It was now night； and we were in the midst of woodlands； feeling our way； for the darkn