按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
eed； but be careful； and your horses； if sure…footed； will run no great danger； my comrade is a fool。' A violent dispute instantly ensued between the two mountaineers； each supporting his opinion with loud oaths and curses； but without stopping to see the result I passed on。 But the path was now filled with stones and huge slaty rocks； on which my horse slid； frequently on his haunches。 I likewise heard the sound of water in a deep gorge； which I had hitherto not perceived； and I soon saw that it would be worse than madness to proceed。 I turned my horse and was hastening to regain the path which I had left； when Antonio； my faithful Greek； pointed out to me a meadow； by which he said we might regain the high road much lower down than if we returned on our steps。 The meadow was brilliant with short green grass； and in the middle there was a small rivulet of water。 I spurred my horse on； expecting to be in the high road in a moment； the horse； however； snorted and stared wildly； and was evidently unwilling to cross the seemingly inviting spot。 I thought that the scent of a wolf or some other wild animal might have disturbed him； but was soon undeceived by his sinking up to the knees in a bog。 The animal uttered a shrill sharp neigh； and exhibited every sign of the greatest terror； making at the same time great efforts to extricate himself； and plunging forward； but every moment sinking deeper。 At last he arrived where a small vein of rock showed itself； on this he placed his fore feet； and with one tremendous exertion freed himself from the deceitful soil； springing over the rivulet and alighting on comparatively firm ground； where he stood panting； his heaving sides covered with a foamy sweat。 Antonio； who had been a terrified observer of the whole scene； afraid to venture forward； returned by the path by which we came and shortly afterwards rejoined me。 This adventure brought to my recollection the meadow with its foot…path； which tempted Christian from the straight road to heaven； and finally conducted him to the dominions of the Giant Despair。
NO HAY ATAJO SIN TRABAJO。
'There is no short cut Without some deep rut。'
says the Spanish proverb。
We now began to descend the valley by a broad and excellent CARRETERA； or carriage road； which was cut out of the steep side of the mountain on our right。 On our left was the gorge； down which tumbled the run of water which I have before mentioned。 The road was tortuous； and at every turn the scene became more picturesque。 The gorge gradually widened； and the brook at its bottom； fed by a multitude of springs； ＇grew＇ more considerable； but it was soon far beneath us； pursuing its headlong course till it reached level ground； where it flowed in the midst of a beautiful but confined prairie。 There was something silvan and savage in the mountains on the further side； clad from foot to pinnacle with trees； so closely growing that the eye was unable to obtain a glimpse of the hill… sides which were uneven with ravines and gulleys； the haunts of the wolf； the wild boar and the CORSO or mountain…stag； the last of which； as I was informed by a peasant who was driving a car of oxen； frequently descended to feed in the prairie and were shot for the sake of their skins； for the flesh being strong and disagreeable is held at no account。 But notwithstanding the wildness of these regions； the handiworks of man were visible。 The sides of the gorge though precipitous were yellow with little fields of barley； and we saw a hamlet and church down in the prairie below； whilst merry songs ascended to our ears from where the mowers were toiling with their scythes； cutting the luxuriant and abundant grass。 I could scarcely believe that I was in Spain； in general so brown； so arid and cheerless； and I almost fancied myself in Greece； in that land of ancient glory； whose mountain and forest scenery Theocritus has so well described。
At the bottom of the valley we entered a small village washed by the brook； which had now swelled almost to a stream。 A more romantic situation I had never witnessed。 It was surrounded and almost overhung by huge mountains； and embowered in trees of various kinds； waters sounded； nightingales sang； and the cuckoo's full note boomed from the distant branches； but the village was miserable。 The huts were built of slate…stones； of which the neighbouring hills seemed to be principally composed； and roofed with the same； but not in the neat tidy manner of English houses； for the slates were of all sizes； and seemed to be flung on in confusion。 We were spent with heat and thirst； and sitting down on a stone bench I entreated a woman to give us a little water。 The woman said she would； but added that she expected to be paid for it。 My Greek on hearing this burst into horrid execrations； and speaking Greek； Turkish and Spanish invoked the vengeance of the PANHAGIA on the heartless woman； saying 'If I were to offer a Mahometan gold for a draught of water； he would dash it in my face； and you are a Catholic with the stream running at your door。' I told him to be silent； and giving the woman two CUARTOS repeated my request； whereupon she took a pitcher； and； going to the stream； filled it with water。 It tasted muddy and disagreeable； but it drowned the fever which was devouring me。
We again mounted and proceeded on our way； which for a considerable distance lay along the margin of the stream； which now fell in small cataracts； now brawled over stones； and at other times ran dark and silent through deep pools overhung with tall willows … pools which seemed to abound with the finny tribe； for huge trout frequently sprang from the water catching the brilliant fly which skimmed along its deceitful surface。 How delightful！ The sun was rolling high in the firmament； casting from its girdle of fire the most glorious rays； so that the atmosphere was flickering with their splendour； but their fierceness was either warded off by the shadow of the trees or rendered innocuous either by the refreshing coolness which rose from the waters or by the gentle breezes which murmured at intervals over the meadows 'fanning the cheek or raising the hair' of the wanderer。 The hills gradually receded； till at last we entered a plain where tall grass was undulating； and mighty chestnut…trees in full blossom spread their giant and umbrageous boughs。 Beneath many stood cars； the tired oxen prostrate on the ground； the cross…bar of the pole which they support pressing heavily on their heads； whilst their drivers were either employed in cooking or were enjoying a delicious SIESTA in the grass and shade。 I went up to one of the largest of these groups and demanded of the individuals whether they were in need of the Testament of Jesus Christ。 They stared at one another and then at me； till at last a young man who was dandling a long gun in his hands as he reclined demanded of me what it was； at the same time enquiring whether I was a Catalan； 'for you speak hoarse；' said he； 'and are tall and fair like that family。' I sat down amongst them and said I was no Catalan； but I came f