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s him in the shape of an awkward lad； of about eighteen； with staring eyes and a bloated booby face； and wearing a ruff round a short apoplectic neck。
I was shown several beautifully illuminated missals and other manuscripts； but the one which most arrested my attention； I scarcely need say why； bore the following title：…
FORMA SIVE ORDINATIO CAPELLI ILLUSTRISSIMI ET XTIANISSIMI PRINCIPIS HENRICI SEXTI REGIS ANGLIE ET FRANCIE AM DIU HIBERNIE DESCIPTA SERENISSIO PRINCIPI ALFONSO REGI PORTUGALIE ILLUSTRI PER HUMILEM SERVITOREM SM WILLM SAV DECANUM CAPELLI SUPRADICTI。
It seemed a voice from the olden times of my dear native land。 This library and picture…gallery had been formed by one of the latter Bishops； a person of commendable learning and piety。
In the evening I dined with Don Joze d'Azveto and his brother； the latter soon left us； in order to attend to his military duties。 My friend and myself had then much conversation of considerable interest。 He lamented feelingly the deplorable state of ignorance in which his countrymen were at present buried； and said that his friend the Governor and himself were endeavouring to establish a school in the vicinity； and that they had made application to the Government for the use of an empty convent called the ESPINHERO； or thorn…tree； at about a league's distance； and that they had little doubt of their request being complied with。 I had before told him who I was； and now； after expressing my joy at the plan which he had in contemplation； I urged him in the most pressing manner to use all his influence to cause the knowledge of the Scripture to be the basis of the education of the pupils in the intended school； and added that half of the Testaments and Bibles which I had brought with me to Evora were heartily at his service。 He instantly gave me his hand； ＇and＇ said he accepted my offer with the greatest pleasure； and would do all in his power to further my views； which were in many respects his own。 I now told him that I did not come to Portugal with the view of introducing the dogmas of any particular sect； but with the hope of introducing the Bible； which is the well…head of all that is useful and conducive to the happiness of society and individuals； that I cared not what people called themselves； provided they read the Scripture； for that where the Scripture was read neither priestcraft nor tyranny could long exist； and instanced my own country； the cause of whose freedom and happiness was the Bible； and that only； for that before the days of Tyndal it was the seat of ignorance； oppression； and cruelty； and that after the fall of ignorance； the oppression and cruelty soon ceased； for that the last persecutor of the Bible； the last upholder of ignorance … THE BLOODY AND INFAMOUS MARY … was the last tyrant who had sat on the throne of England。 We did not part till the night was considerably advanced； and the next day I sent him the books； in the steadfast hope that a bright and glorious morning was about to rise upon the night which had so long cast its dreary shadow over the regions of the Alemtejo。
The day after this interesting event； which was Saturday； I had more conversation with the man from Palmella。 I asked him if in his journeys he had never been attacked by robbers； he answered 'No；' for that he generally travelled in company with others； 'however；' said he； 'were I alone I should have little fear； for I am well protected。' I said that I supposed he carried arms with him。 'No other arms than this；' said he； and he pulled out a long； desperate…looking knife of English manufacture； like that with which every Portuguese peasant is provided； and which I should consider a far more efficient weapon than a dagger。 'But；' said he； 'I do not place much confidence in the knife。' I then enquired in what were his hopes of protection。 'In this；' he replied； and unbuttoning his waistcoat he showed me a small bag； attached to his neck by a silken string。 'In this bag is an ORACAM （or prayer）； written by a person of power； and as long as I carry it about me no ill can befall me。' Curiosity is one of the leading features of my character； and I instantly said that to be allowed to read the prayer would give me great pleasure。 'Well；' he replied； 'you are my friend； and I would do for you what I would do for few others。 I will show it you。' He then asked me for my penknife and proceeded to unrip the bag； and took out of it a large piece of paper closely folded up。 I hurried with it to my chamber； and commenced the examination of it。 It was scrawled over in a very illegible hand； and was moreover much stained with perspiration； so that I had considerable difficulty in making myself master of its contents； but at last I accomplished the following literal translation of the charm； which was written in bad Portuguese； but which struck me at the time as being the most remarkable composition I had ever seen。
THE CHARM
'Just Judge and divine Son of the Virgin Maria； who wast born at Bethlehem； a Nazarene； and who wast crucified in the midst of all Jewry！ I beseech Thee； O Lord； by virtue of Thy sixth day that the body of me； Francisco； be not caught nor put to death by the hands of Justice！ Pazes teco （pax tecum）； pazes Cristo。 May you receive peace； said Christ to His disciples。 If the accursed Justice should distrust me； or have its eye on me； in order to take me； or to rob me； may it have an eye which shall not see me； may it have a mouth which shall not speak to me； may it have an ear which shall not hear me； may it have a hand which shall not seize me； may it have a foot which shall not overtake me； for may I be armed with the arms of Saint George； may I be covered with the cloak of Abraham； and embarked in the ark of Noah； so that it can neither see me； nor hear me； nor draw the blood from my body！ I also conjure Thee； O Lord； by those three blessed crosses … by those three blessed chalices … by those three blessed clergymen … by those three consecrated hosts； that Thou give me that sweet company which Thou gavest the Virgin Maria； from the gates of Bethlehem even unto the portals of Jerusalem； that I may go and come with peace and joy with Jesus Christ； Son of the Virgin Maria； the prolific； yet nevertheless the eternal Virgin Maria our Lady。'
The woman of the house and her daughter had similar bags tied to their necks； containing charms； which they said prevented the witches having power to harm them。 The belief in witchcraft is very prevalent amongst the peasantry of the Alemtejo； and I believe of other provinces of Portugal。 This is one of the relics of the monkish system； the aim of which in all countries where it has existed； or does exist； seems to be to besot the minds of the people that they may be the more easily plundered and misled。 The monks of the Greek and Syriac Churches likewise deal in this kind of ware； which they know to be poison； but which； as it brings them a price and fosters delusion by which they are maintained in luxury and idleness； they would rather vend than the wholesome drug。
The Sunday morning was fine；