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gilded coaches （borrowed from Versailles for the occasion）； eight horses
apiece； led by footmen … horses and men blazing in embroidered trappings
… leave the Tuileries and proceed at a walk to the great gateway of the now
disappearing palace。 Victoria and Albert who were on an official visit to
the Emperor were the first to alight； then Eugenie in the radiance of her
perfect beauty stepped from the coach （sad omen！） that fifty years before
had taken Josephine in tears to Malmaison。
It may interest some ladies to know how an Empress was dressed on
that spring morning forty…four years ago。 She wore rose…colored silk with
an over…dress （I think that is what it is called） of black lace flounces；
immense hoops； and a black CHANTILLY lace shawl。 Her hair； a brilliant
golden auburn； was dressed low on the temples； covering the ears； and
hung down her back in a gold net almost to her waist； at the extreme back
of her head was placed a black and rose…colored bonnet； open 〃flowing〃
sleeves showed her bare arms； one…buttoned； straw…colored gloves； and
ruby bracelets； she carried a tiny rose…colored parasol not a foot in
diameter。
How England's great sovereign was dressed the writer of the journal
does not so well remember； for in those days Eugenie was the cynosure of
all eyes； and people rarely looked at anything else when they could get a
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Worldly Ways and Byways
glimpse of her lovely face。
It appears； however； that the Queen sported an India shawl； hoops； and
a green bonnet； which was not particularly becoming to her red face。 She
and Napoleon entered the building first； the Empress （who was in delicate
health） was carried in an open chair； with Prince Albert walking at her side；
a marvellously handsome couple to follow the two dowdy little sovereigns
who preceded them。 The writer had by bribery succeeded in getting places
in an ENTRESOL window under the archway； and was greatly impressed
to see those four great ones laughing and joking together over Eugenie's
trouble in getting her hoops into the narrow chair！
What changes have come to that laughing group！ Two are dead； one
dying in exile and disgrace； and it would be hard to find in the two
rheumatic old ladies whom one sees pottering about the Riviera now； any
trace of those smiling wives。 In France it is as if a tidal wave had swept
over Napoleon's court。 Only the old palace stood severely back from the
Champs Elysees； as if guarding its souvenirs。 The pick of the mason has
brought down the proud gateway which its imperial builder fondly
imagined was to last for ages。 The Tuileries preceded it into oblivion。 The
Alpha and Omega of that gorgeous pageant of the fifties vanished like a
mirage！
It is not here alone one finds Paris changing。 A railway is being
brought along the quais with its depot at the Invalides。 Another is to find
its terminus opposite the Louvre； where the picturesque ruin of the Cour
des Comptes has stood half…hidden by the trees since 1870。 A line of
electric cars crosses the Rond Point； in spite of the opposition of all the
neighborhood； anxious to keep； at least that fine perspective free from
such desecration。 And； last but not least； there is every prospect of an
immense system of elevated railways being inaugurated in connection
with the coming world's fair。 The direction of this kind of improvement is
entirely in the hands of the Municipal Council； and that body has become
（here in Paris） extremely radical； not to say communistic； and takes
pleasure in annoying the inhabitants of the richer quarters of the city；
under pretext of improvements and facilities of circulation。
It is easy to see how strong the feeling is against the aristocratic class。
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Worldly Ways and Byways
Nor is it much to be wondered at！ The aristocracy seem to try to make
themselves unpopular。 They detest the republic； which has shorn them of
their splendor； and do everything in their power （socially and
diplomatically their power is still great） to interfere with and frustrate the
plans of the government。 Only last year they seized an opportunity at the
funerals of the Duchesse d'Alencon and the Duc d'Aumale to make a
royalist manifestation of the most pronounced character。 The young
Duchesse d'Orleans was publicly spoken of and treated as the 〃Queen of
France；〃 at the private receptions given during her stay in Paris the same
ceremonial was observed as if she had been really on the throne。 The
young Duke； her husband； was not present； being in exile as a pretender；
but armorial bearings of the 〃reigning family；〃 as their followers insist on
calling them； were hung around the Madeleine and on the funeral…cars of
both the illustrious dead。
The government is singularly lenient to the aristocrats。 If a poor man
cries 〃Long live the Commune！〃 in the street； he is arrested。 The police；
however； stood quietly by and let a group of the old nobility shout 〃Long
live the Queen！〃 as the train containing the young Duchesse d'Orleans
moved out of the station。 The secret of this leniency toward the
〃pretenders〃 to the throne； is that they are very little feared。 If it amuses a
set of wealthy people to play at holding a court； the strong government of
the republic cares not one jot。 The Orleans family have never been popular
in France； and the young pretender's marriage to an Austrian Archduchess
last year has not improved matters。
It is the fashion in the conservative Faubourg St。 Germain； to ridicule
the President； his wife and their bourgeois surroundings； as forty years ago
the parents of these aristocrats affected to despise the imperial
PARVENUS。 The swells amused themselves during the official visit of the
Emperor and Empress of Russia last year （which was gall and wormwood
to them） by exaggerating and repeating all the small slips in etiquette that
the President； an intelligent； but simple…mannered gentleman； was
supposed to have made during the sojourn of his imperial guests。
Both M。 and Mme。 Faure are extremely popular with the people； and
are heartily cheered whenever they are seen in public。 The President is the
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