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Petrifaction！ There was no such word in my language！ I knew
about putrifaction； though！ I thought it was a stone； so
would you； if you was cleaning up pasture。〃
And now he had a theory of his own； which I did not quite
grasp； except that the trees had not 〃grewed〃 there。 But he
mentioned； with evident pride； that he differed from all the
scientific people who had visited the spot； and he flung
about such words as 〃tufa〃 and 〃scilica〃 with careless
freedom。
When I mentioned I was from Scotland； 〃My old country；〃 he
said； 〃my old country〃 … with a smiling look and a tone of
real affection in his voice。 I was mightily surprised； for
he was obviously Scandinavian； and begged him to explain。 It
seemed he had learned his English and done nearly all his
sailing in Scotch ships。 〃Out of Glasgow；〃 said he； 〃or
Greenock； but that's all the same … they all hail from
Glasgow。〃 And he was so pleased with me for being a Scotsman；
and his adopted compatriot； that he made me a present of a
very beautiful piece of petrifaction … I believe the most
beautiful and portable he had。
Here was a man； at least； who was a Swede； a Scot； and an
American； acknowledging some kind allegiance to three lands。
Mr。 Wallace's Scoto…Circassian will not fail to come before
the reader。 I have myself met and spoken with a Fifeshire
German； whose combination of abominable accents struck me
dumb。 But； indeed； I think we all belong to many countries。
And perhaps this habit of much travel； and the engendering of
scattered friendships； may prepare the euthanasia of ancient
nations。
And the forest itself？ Well； on a tangled； briery hillside …
for the pasture would bear a little further cleaning up； to
my eyes … there lie scattered thickly various lengths of
petrified trunk； such as the one already mentioned。 It is
very curious； of course； and ancient enough； if that were
all。 Doubtless； the heart of the geologist beats quicker at
the sight； but； for my part； I was mightily unmoved。 Sight…
seeing is the art of disappointment。
〃There's nothing under heaven so blue；
That's fairly worth the travelling to。〃
But； fortunately； Heaven rewards us with many agreeable
prospects and adventures by the way； and sometimes； when we
go out to see a petrified forest； prepares a far more
delightful curiosity； in the form of Mr。 Evans； whom may all
prosperity attend throughout a long and green old age。
CHAPTER III … NAPA WINE
I WAS interested in Californian wine。 Indeed； I am
interested in all wines； and have been all my life； from the
raisin wine that a schoolfellow kept secreted in his play…box
up to my last discovery； those notable Valtellines； that once
shone upon the board of Caesar。
Some of us； kind old Pagans； watch with dread the shadows
falling on the age： how the unconquerable worm invades the
sunny terraces of France； and Bordeaux is no more； and the
Rhone a mere Arabia Petraea。 Chateau Neuf is dead； and I
have never tasted it； Hermitage … a hermitage indeed from all
life's sorrows … lies expiring by the river。 And in the
place of these imperial elixirs； beautiful to every sense；
gem…hued； flower…scented； dream…compellers：… behold upon the
quays at Cette the chemicals arrayed； behold the analyst at
Marseilles； raising hands in obsecration； attesting god
Lyoeus； and the vats staved in； and the dishonest wines
poured forth among the sea。 It is not Pan only； Bacchus；
too； is dead。
If wine is to withdraw its most poetic countenance； the sun
of the white dinner…cloth； a deity to be invoked by two or
three； all fervent； hushing their talk； degusting tenderly；
and storing reminiscences … for a bottle of good wine； like a
good act； shines ever in the retrospect … if wine is to
desert us； go thy ways； old Jack！ Now we begin to have
compunctions； and look back at the brave bottles squandered
upon dinner…parties； where the guests drank grossly；
discussing politics the while； and even the schoolboy 〃took
his whack；〃 like liquorice water。 And at the same time； we
look timidly forward； with a spark of hope； to where the new
lands； already weary of producing gold； begin to green with
vineyards。 A nice point in human history falls to be decided
by Californian and Australian wines。
Wine in California is still in the experimental stage； and
when you taste a vintage； grave economical questions are
involved。 The beginning of vine…planting is like the
beginning of mining for the precious metals： the wine…grower
also 〃Prospects。〃 One corner of land after another is tried
with one kind of grape after another。 This is a failure；
that is better； a third best。 So； bit by bit； they grope
about for their Clos Vougeot and Lafite。 Those lodes and
pockets of earth； more precious than the precious ores； that
yield inimitable fragrance and soft fire； those virtuous
Bonanzas； where the soil has sublimated under sun and stars
to something finer； and the wine is bottled poetry： these
still lie undiscovered； chaparral conceals； thicket embowers
them； the miner chips the rock and wanders farther； and the
grizzly muses undisturbed。 But there they bide their hour；
awaiting their Columbus； and nature nurses and prepares them。
The smack of Californian earth shall linger on the palate of
your grandson。
Meanwhile the wine is merely a good wine； the best that I
have tasted better than a Beaujolais； and not unlike。 But
the trade is poor； it lives from hand to mouth； putting its
all into experiments； and forced to sell its vintages。 To
find one properly matured； and bearing its own name； is to be
fortune's favourite。
Bearing its own name； I say； and dwell upon the innuendo。
〃You want to know why California wine is not drunk in the
States？〃 a San Francisco wine merchant said to me； after he
had shown me through his premises。 〃Well； here's the
reason。〃
And opening a large cupboard； fitted with many little
drawers； he proceeded to shower me all over with a great
variety of gorgeously tinted labels； blue； red； or yellow；
stamped with crown or coronet； and hailing from such a
profusion of CLOS and CHATEAUX； that a single department
could scarce have furnished forth the names。 But it was
strange that all looked unfamiliar。
〃Chateau X…？〃 said I。 〃I never heard of that。〃
〃I dare say not；〃 said he。 〃I had been reading one of X…'s
novels。〃
They were all castles in Spain！ But that sure enough is the
reason why California wine is not drunk in the States。
Napa valley has been long a seat of the wine…growing
industry。 It did not here begin； as it does too often； in
the low valley lands along the river； but took at once to the
rough foot…hills； where alone it can expect to prosper。 A
basking inclination； and stones； to be a reservoir of the
da