按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
The Silverado Squatters
by Robert Louis Stevenson
THE scene of this little book is on a high mountain。 There
are； indeed； many higher； there are many of a nobler outline。
It is no place of pilgrimage for the summary globe…trotter；
but to one who lives upon its sides； Mount Saint Helena soon
becomes a centre of interest。 It is the Mont Blanc of one
section of the Californian Coast Range； none of its near
neighbours rising to one…half its altitude。 It looks down on
much green； intricate country。 It feeds in the spring…time
many splashing brooks。 From its summit you must have an
excellent lesson of geography： seeing； to the south； San
Francisco Bay； with Tamalpais on the one hand and Monte
Diablo on the other； to the west and thirty miles away； the
open ocean； eastward； across the corn…lands and thick tule
swamps of Sacramento Valley； to where the Central Pacific
railroad begins to climb the sides of the Sierras； and
northward； for what I know； the white head of Shasta looking
down on Oregon。 Three counties； Napa County； Lake County；
and Sonoma County； march across its cliffy shoulders。 Its
naked peak stands nearly four thousand five hundred feet
above the sea； its sides are fringed with forest； and the
soil； where it is bare； glows warm with cinnabar。
Life in its shadow goes rustically forward。 Bucks； and
bears； and rattle…snakes； and former mining operations； are
the staple of men's talk。 Agriculture has only begun to
mount above the valley。 And though in a few years from now
the whole district may be smiling with farms； passing trains
shaking the mountain to the heart； many…windowed hotels
lighting up the night like factories； and a prosperous city
occupying the site of sleepy Calistoga； yet in the mean time；
around the foot of that mountain the silence of nature reigns
in a great measure unbroken； and the people of hill and
valley go sauntering about their business as in the days
before the flood。
To reach Mount Saint Helena from San Francisco； the traveller
has twice to cross the bay： once by the busy Oakland Ferry；
and again； after an hour or so of the railway； from Vallejo
junction to Vallejo。 Thence he takes rail once more to mount
the long green strath of Napa Valley。
In all the contractions and expansions of that inland sea；
the Bay of San Francisco； there can be few drearier scenes
than the Vallejo Ferry。 Bald shores and a low； bald islet
inclose the sea； through the narrows the tide bubbles； muddy
like a river。 When we made the passage （bound； although yet
we knew it not； for Silverado） the steamer jumped； and the
black buoys were dancing in the jabble； the ocean breeze blew
killing chill； and； although the upper sky was still
unflecked with vapour； the sea fogs were pouring in from
seaward； over the hilltops of Marin county； in one great；
shapeless； silver cloud。
South Vallejo is typical of many Californian towns。 It was a
blunder； the site has proved untenable； and； although it is
still such a young place by the scale of Europe； it has
already begun to be deserted for its neighbour and namesake；
North Vallejo。 A long pier； a number of drinking saloons； a
hotel of a great size； marshy pools where the frogs keep up
their croaking； and even at high noon the entire absence of
any human face or voice … these are the marks of South
Vallejo。 Yet there was a tall building beside the pier；
labelled the STAR FLOUR MILLS； and sea…going； full…rigged
ships lay close along shore； waiting for their cargo。 Soon
these would be plunging round the Horn； soon the flour from
the STAR FLOUR MILLS would be landed on the wharves of
Liverpool。 For that； too； is one of England's outposts；
thither； to this gaunt mill； across the Atlantic and Pacific
deeps and round about the icy Horn； this crowd of great；
three…masted； deep…sea ships come； bringing nothing； and
return with bread。
The Frisby House； for that was the name of the hotel； was a
place of fallen fortunes； like the town。 It was now given up
to labourers； and partly ruinous。 At dinner there was the
ordinary display of what is called in the west a TWO…BIT
HOUSE： the tablecloth checked red and white； the plague of
flies； the wire hencoops over the dishes； the great variety
and invariable vileness of the food and the rough coatless
men devoting it in silence。 In our bedroom； the stove would
not burn； though it would smoke； and while one window would
not open； the other would not shut。 There was a view on a
bit of empty road； a few dark houses； a donkey wandering with
its shadow on a slope； and a blink of sea； with a tall ship
lying anchored in the moonlight。 All about that dreary inn
frogs sang their ungainly chorus。
Early the next morning we mounted the hill along a wooden
footway； bridging one marish spot after another。 Here and
there； as we ascended； we passed a house embowered in white
roses。 More of the bay became apparent； and soon the blue
peak of Tamalpais rose above the green level of the island
opposite。 It told us we were still but a little way from the
city of the Golden Gates； already； at that hour； beginning to
awake among the sand…hills。 It called to us over the waters
as with the voice of a bird。 Its stately head； blue as a
sapphire on the paler azure of the sky； spoke to us of wider
outlooks and the bright Pacific。 For Tamalpais stands
sentry； like a lighthouse； over the Golden Gates； between the
bay and the open ocean； and looks down indifferently on both。
Even as we saw and hailed it from Vallejo； seamen； far out at
sea； were scanning it with shaded eyes； and； as if to answer
to the thought； one of the great ships below began silently
to clothe herself with white sails； homeward bound for
England。
For some way beyond Vallejo the railway led us through bald
green pastures。 On the west the rough highlands of Marin
shut off the ocean； in the midst； in long； straggling；
gleaming arms； the bay died out among the grass； there were
few trees and few enclosures； the sun shone wide over open
uplands； the displumed hills stood clear against the sky。
But by…and…by these hills began to draw nearer on either
hand； and first thicket and then wood began to clothe their
sides； and soon we were away from all signs of the sea's
neighbourhood； mounting an inland； irrigated valley。 A great
variety of oaks stood； now severally； now in a becoming
grove； among the fields and vineyards。 The towns were
compact； in about equal proportions； of bright； new wooden
houses and great and growing forest trees； and the chapel
bell on the engine sounded most festally that sunny Sunday；
as we drew up at one green town after another； with the
townsfolk trooping in their Sunday's best to see the
strangers； with the sun sparkling on the clean houses； and