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enough the day before； and on general principles should； it would
seem； ride all the better for being light。 But indeed their guilt
was plain。 Our rascally boatmen； who had already charged a goodly
sum for their craft； had thought to serve two masters； and after
having leased the whole boat to me were intending now to turn a
dishonest penny by shipping somebody else's goods into the bargain。
In company with the rest of my kind； I much dislike to be imposed
upon； so I told them they might instantly take the so…called ballast
out again。 When I had seen the process of disembarkation fairly
begun I relented； deciding； so long as the bales were already aboard；
to take them on to the first stopping place； and there put them
ashore。
The river； its brief glimpse at civilization over； relapsed again
into utter savagery。 Rocks and trees； as wild apparently as their
first forerunners there； walled us in on the sides； and appeared to
do so at the ends； making exit seem an impossibility； and entrance to
have been a dream。 The stream gave short reaches； disclosing every
few minutes； as it took us round a fresh turn； a new variation on the
old theme。 Then； as we glided straight our few hundred feet； the
wall behind us rose higher and higher； stretching out at us as if to
prevent our possible escape。 We had thought it only a high cliff；
and behold it was the whole mountain side that had stood barrier
there。
I cannot point the wildness of it all better than did a certain sight
we came upon suddenly； round a corner。 Without the least warning；
a bend in the current introduced us to a fishing…pole and a basket；
reposing together on the top of a rock。 These two hints at humanity
sat all by themselves； keeping one another company； no other sign of
man was visible anywhere。 The pair of waifs gave one an odd feeling；
as might the shadow of a person apart from the person himself。
There was something uncanny in their commonplaceness in so uncommon
a place。 While we were still wondering at the whereabouts of their
owner； another turn disclosed him by a sort of cove where his boat
lay drawn up。 Indeed； it was an ideal spot for an angler； and a
lucrative one as well； for the river is naturally full of fish。
Were I the angler I have seen others； I would encamp here for the
rest of my life and feed off such phosphoric diet as I might catch；
to the quickening of the brain and the composing of the body。
But fortunately man has more of the river than of the rock in his
composition； and whether he will or no is steadily being hurried past
such nicks in life toward other adventures beyond。
The rapids here were； if anything； finer than those above Mitsushima。
Of them in all there are said to be more than thirty。 Some have
nicknames； as 〃the Turret；〃 〃the Adze；〃 〃Boiling Rice；〃 and 〃the
Mountain Bath。〃 Indeed； probably all of them have distinctive
appellations； but one cannot ask the names of everybody in a
procession。 There were some bad enough to give one a sensation。
Two of the worst rocks have been blown up； but enough still remain to
point a momentary moral or adorn an after tale。 All were exhilarating。
Through even the least bad I should have been more than sorry to have
come alone。 But confiding trust in the boatmen was not misplaced；
for if questionable in their morals； they were above reproach in
their water…craft。
The rapids were incidents； the gorge we had always with us； superb
cleft that it was； hewn as by some giant axe； notching the mountain
chain imperiously for passage。 Hour followed hour with the same
setting。 How the river first took it into its head to come through
so manifestly unsuitable a place is a secret for the geologist to
tell。 But I for one wish I had been by to see。
From morning till noon we raced with the water at the bottom of the
canon。 Each turn was like； and yet unlike； the one before； so that I
wonder that I have other than a blurred composite picture on my
mind's plate。 Yet certain bits have picked themselves out and ousted
the rest； and the river comes up to me in thought as vivid as in
life。
These repeated disclosures that disclosed nothing lulled us at last
into a happy unconsciousness of end in this subterranean passage to a
lower world。 Though we were cleaving the mountain chain in part
against the grain； indeed because we were； it showed no sign of
giving out； until without premonition a curve shot us out at the foot
of a village perched so perpendicularly on terraces that it almost
overhung the stream。 It was called Nishinoto； and consisted of a
street that sidled up between the dwellings in a more than alpine
way。 Up it we climbed aerially to a teahouse for lunch； but not
before I had directed the boatmen to discharge the smuggled goods。
In another hour we were under way again less the uninvited bales；
which； left sitting all alone on the sands； mutely reproached us till
they could be seen no more。 At the first bend the gorge closed round
about us as rugged as ever。 The rapids were not so dangerous as
those above； but the stream was still fast if less furious。 When we
looked at the water we did not appear to be moving at all； and when
we looked up again at the bank we almost lost our balance for the
sudden start。
Then gradually a change crept over the face of things。 The stream
grew a thought more steady； the canon a shade less wild。 We passed
through some more rapids；our last； the boatmen said。 The river
began to widen； the mountains standing more respectfully apart。
They let us see nothing new； but they showed us more of themselves；
and grand buttresses they made。 Then the reaches grew longer； and other
hills less high became visible ahead。 By all signs we were come to
the beginning of the end。 Another turn； and we were confronted with
a real view；a very hilly view； to be sure； but one that belonged to
the world of man。
It was like coming out of a tunnel into the light。
The current hurried us on。 At each bend the hills in front rose less
wild than at the bend before。 Villages began to dot the shores；
and the river spread out and took its ease。 Another curve； and we no
longer saw hills and rocks ahead。 A great plain stretched before us；
over which our eyes wandered at will。 Looking back； we marked the
mountains already closing up in line。 I tried to place the river's gap；
but the barrier had grown continuous to the eye。 Like adventurers in
a fairy tale； the opening through which we had come had closed
unrecognizably behind us。
In front all was plain； every…day plain； with people tilling it；
and hamlets； and in the immediate foreground； right athwart our course；
a ferryboat full of folk。 As we bore down between it and the landing
place two men gesticulated at us from the bank。 We swerved in toward
them。 They shouted something to the boatmen； and Yejiro turned to
me。 The wayfarers asked if we would let the