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the art of suspension bridges； the ferryboat itself supporting a part
of the weight； while the ferryman pulled it and himself across。
We met several more in the course of the next few minutes； before
which we all bowed down into the bottom of the boat； while the hawser
scraped； grumbling impotently； overhead。
Our boat was of adaptive build。 It was forty…five feet long； not quite
four feet wide； and somewhat over two feet deep。 These proportions
and the character of the wood made it exceeding lithe； so that it
bent like a willow before necessity。 In the stern stood the head
man； wielding for rudder an oar half as long again as those the
others used。 There was very little rowing done； nor was there need；
the current itself took us along at racing speed。
Shortly after ducking under the last ferry rope we reached the
gateway to the canon。 Some rapids made an introduction； rocks in
places jutting out of the foam； and while we were still curveting to
the waves the hills suddenly closed in upon the stream in two
beetling cliffs； spanned surprisingly by a lofty cantalever bridge。
An individual who chanced to cross at the moment stopped in mid path
to watch us through。 The stream swept us in； and the countryside
contracted to a vanishing vista behind。 We were launched on our long
canon voyage。 The change was as sudden as a thunderstorm of a
smiling summer afternoon。 It was an eclipse of the earth by the
earth itself。 Dark rocks picketed with trees rose in still darker
shadow on either hand； higher than one could see。 The black river
swirled beside us； silent； sullen； swift。 At the bottom of that
gorge untrodden by man； borne by the dark flood that untouched by
sunlight coiled snakelike along； we seemed adventured on some
unforgotten Styx。
For some time we had voyaged thus with a feeling not unlike awe； when
all at once there was a bustle among the boatmen； and one of them
went forward and stood up in the bow。 We swept round a corner； and
saw our first great rapids three hundred yards ahead。 We could mark
a dip in the stream； and then a tumbled mass of white water； while a
roar as of rage came out of the body of it。 As we swept down upon
the spot； the man in the bow began beating the gunwale with his oar
in regularly repeated raps。 The board gave out a hollow ring that
strangely filled the river chasm； a sound well calculated to terrify
the evil spirits of the spot。 For indeed it was an exorcism of
homoeopathic design。 His incantation finished； he stood motionless。
So did the rest of us； waiting for the plunge。 The boat dipped by
the bow； darted forward； and in a trice we were in the midst of a
deafening turmoil of boiling waters and crashing breakers。 The
breakers laid violent hands upon us； grappling at the frail gunwale
and coming in part aboard； and then； as we slipped from their grasp；
impotently flung their spray in our faces； and with a growl dropped
astern。 The boat trembled like a leaf； and was trembling yet； when；
with nightmare speed； the thing had slipped into the past； and we
were shot out into the midst of the seething flood below。
Not the least impressive part of the affair was the strange
spirit…rapping on the bow。 The boatmen valiantly asserted that this
was simply for signal to the man in the stern。 Undoubtedly now the
action has largely cloaked itself in habit； but that it once was
superstitious is unquestionable。 Devils still constitute far too
respected a portion of the community in peasant parts of Japan。
The steering the boatmen did was clever； but the steering the stream
managed of its own motion was more so。 For between the rapids proper
were swirls and whirlpools and races without end。 The current took
us in hand at the turns； sweeping us down at speed straight for a
rock on the opposite bank； and then； just as shipwreck seemed
inevitable； whisked us round upon the other tack。 A thick cushion of
water had fended the boat off； so that to strike would have been as
impossible as it looked certain。 And then at intervals came the roar
of another rapid； like a stirring refrain； with the boatman in the
bow to beat the time。
So we swept on； now through inky swirls of tide； now through
snow…capped billows； moods these of the passing stream； while above
the grand character of the gorge remained eternally the same。
The trees far up； sharp…etched against the blue；
Let but the river's strip of skylight through
To trees below； that on each jutting ledge
Scant foothold found to overlook the edge；
As still as statues on their niches there；
Where no breeze stirred the ever…shadowed air；
Spellbound spectators； crowded tier on tier
From where the lowest； bending to be near
The shock of spray； with leaves a…tremble stood
In shuddering gaze above the swirling flood。
The whole deep chasm； some vast natural nave
That to the thought a touch of grandeur gave；
And touch of grace；for that wistaria clung
Upon the trees； its grapelike bunches hung
In stretch to catch their semblance in the stream；
Pale purple clusters； meant to live in dream；
Placed high above man's predatory clutch；
To sight alone vouchsafed； from harming touch
Wisely withheld as he is hurried past；
And thus the more a memory to last；
A violet vision； there to stayfair fate
Forever virginly inviolate。
Slowly the strip of sky overhead became steeped in color； the half
light at the bottom of the gorge deepened in tint； and suddenly a
turn brought us out at a blaze in the cliff； where a handful of
houses straggled up toward the outer world。 We had reached
Mitsushima； a shafting in the tunnel； and our halting place for the
night。
XXI。
To the Sea。
It was a ten minutes' walk； the next morning； from the inn down to
the boat： an everwinding path along a succession of terraces studded
with trees just breaking into leaf； and dotted with cottages； whose
folk gave us good…day as we passed。 The site of the village sloped
to the south； its cheek full turned to the sunshine that stole down
and kissed it as it lay。 On this lovely May morning； amid the
slumbering air； it made as amorous a bit of springtide as the heart
could wish。 In front of us； in vignette； stretched the stream； half
a mile of it to where it turned the corner。 Each succeeding level of
terrace reset the picture； as if for trial of effect。
The boat was waiting； lightly grounded on a bit of shingle left by a
turn of the current。 Several enthusiastic followers accompanied us
out to it with respectful insistence。
On reaching our craft； we found； to our surprise； that it was full of
bales of merchandise of large and plethoric habit。 We asked in
astonishment what all this cargo meant。 The men answered sheepishly
that it was to make the boat ride better。 The boat had ridden well
enough the day before； and on general principles should； i