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fares rose to six cents a ri。 Before they could mount higher we had
taken refuge in the train； and were hurrying toward Zenkoji by steam。
Our objective point was now the descent of the Tenriugawa rapids。
It was not the shortest way home； but it was part of our projected
itinerary and took us through a country typical of the heart of
Japan。 It began with a fine succession of passes。 These I had once
taken on a journey years before with a friend； and as we started now
up the first one； the Saru ga Bamba no toge； I tried to make the new
impression fit the old remembrance。 But man had been at work upon
the place without； and imagination still more upon its picture
within。 It was another toge we climbed in the light of that
latter…day afternoon。 With the companion the old had passed away。
Leaving the others to follow； I started down the zigzags on the
farther side。 It was already dusk； and the steepness of the road and
the brisk night air sent me swinging down the turns with something of
the anchor…like escapement of a watch。 Midway I passed a solitary
pedestrian； who was trolling to himself down the descent； and when in
turn he passed me； as I was waiting under a tree for the others to
catch up； he eyed me suspiciously； as one whose wanderings were
questionable。 They were certainly questionable to myself； for by
that time we were come to habitations； and each fresh light I saw I
took for the village where we were to stop for the night； in spite of
repeated disillusionings。
Overhead； the larger stars came out and winked at me； and then； as
the fields of space became more and more lighted with star…points；
the hearth…fires to other homes of worlds； I thought how local； after
all； is the great cone of shadow we men call night； for it is only
nature's nightcap for the nodding earth； as she turns her head away
from the sun to lie pillowed in space。
The next day was notable chiefly for the up…and…down character of the
country even for Japan； which was excelled only by the unhesitating
acceptance of it on the part of the road； and this in its turn only
by the crowds that traveled it。 It seemed that the desire to go
increased inversely as the difficulty in going。 The wayfarers were
most sociable folk； and for a people with whom personality is at a
discount singularly given to personalities。 Not a man who had a
decent chance but asked whither we were going and whence we had come。
To the first half of the country…side we confided so much of our
private history； to the second we contented ourselves in saying； with
elaborate courtesy； 〃The same as six years ago；〃 an answer which
sounded polite； and rendered the surprised questioner speechless for
the time we took to pass。
Especially the women added to the picturesqueness of the landscape。
Their heads done up in gay…colored kerchiefs； framing their round and
rosy faces； their kit slung over their shoulders； and their kimono
tucked in at their waists； they trudged along on useful pairs of
ankles neatly cased in lavender gaiters。 Some followed dutifully
behind their husbands； others chatted along in company with their
kind；members these last of some pilgrim association。
There were wayfarers； too； of less happy mind。 For over the last
pass the authorities were building a new road； and long lines of
pink…coated convicts marched to and fro at work upon it； under the
surveillance of the dark…blue police； and the sight made me think how
little the momentary living counts in the actual life。 Here we were；
two sets of men； doing for the time an identical thing； trudging
along a mountain path in the fresh May air； and yet to the one the
day seemed all sunshine； to the other nothing but cloud。
XIX。
Our Passport and the Basha。
It was bound to come； and we knew it； it was only a question of time。
But then we had braved the law so far so well； we had almost come to
believe that we should escape altogether。 I mean the fatal detection
by the police that we were violating my passport。 That document had
already outrun the statute of limitations； and left me no better than
an outlaw。 For practical purposes my character was gone； and being
thus self…convicted I might be arrested at any moment！
In consequence of pending treaty negotiations the government had
become particular about the privileges it granted。 One of the first
counter…moves to foreign insistence on exterritoriality was the
restricting of passports to a fortnight's time。 You might lay out
any tour you chose； and if granted by the government； the provinces
designated would all be duly inscribed in your passport； but you had
to compass them all in the fortnight or be punished。 Of course this
could be evaded； and a Japanese friend in the foreign office had
kindly promised to send me an extension on telegraph。 But the
dislike of being tied to times and places made me sinfully prefer the
risk of being marched back to Tokyo under the charge of a policeman；
a fate I had seen overtake one or two other malefactors caught at
somewhat different crimes； whom we had casually met on the road。
The Harinoki toge was largely to blame for the delay； it is true。
But then unluckily the Harinoki toge could not be arrested； and I could。
The bespectacled authorities who examined my credentials every night
had hitherto winked at my guilt； so that the bolt fell upon us from a
clear sky。 It is almost questionable whether it had a right to fall
at that moment at all。 It was certainly a case of officious
officialdom。 For we had stopped simply to change kuruma； and the
unwritten rule of the road runs that so long as the traveler keeps
moving he is safe。 To catch him napping at night is the recognized
custom。
Besides； the police might have chosen； even by day； some other
opportunity to light upon us than in the very thick of our wrestle
with the extortionate prices of fresh kuruma。 It was inconsiderate
of them； to say the least； for the attack naturally threw us into a
certain disrepute not calculated to cheapen fares。 Then； too； our
obvious haste helped furnish circumstantial evidence of crime。
Nevertheless； in the very midst of these difficult negotiations at
Matsumoto； evil fate presented itself； clothed as a policeman； and
demanded our papers。 Luckily they were not at the very bottom of the
baggage； but in Yejiro's bosom； for otherwise our effects would have
become a public show； and collected an even greater crowd than
actually gathered。 The arm of the law took the passport； fell at
once on the indefensible date； and pointed it out to us。 There we
were； caught in the act。 We sank several degrees instantly in
everybody's estimation。
How we escaped is a secret of the Japanese force； for escape we did。
We admitted our misfortune to the policeman； and expressed ourselves
as even more desirous of getting back to Tokyo than he could be to
have us there。