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to scuffle along in a very undignified way。 Then every few steps one
or the other of the clogs saw fit to stay behind； and I had to halt
to recover the delinquent。 I made a sorry spectacle as I screwed
about on the remaining shoe； groping after its fellow。 Once I was
caught in the act by my cicerone； who turned round inopportunely to
see why I was not following； and twice in attempting the feat I all
but lost my balance into the mud。
The worthy virtuoso； as he was； met us at the door； and escorted us
upstairs to see his treasures。 The room was tapestried with all
manner of works of art； of which he was justly proud； while the house
itself stood copied from a Chinese model； for he was very classic。
But I was pleased to find that above all his heart was given to the
view。 It was shared； as I also discovered； by the tea…ceremonies； in
which he was a proficient； such a mixture is man。 But I believe the
view to have been the deeper affection。 While I was admiring it； he
fetched from a cupboard a very suspicious…looking bottle of what
turned out to be honey； and pressed a glass of it upon me。 I duly
sipped this not inappropriate liquor； since cordials savor of
asceticism； and this one being of natural decoction peculiarly
befitted a secular anchorite。 Then I took my leave of one who；
though no longer in the world； was still so charmingly of it。
The good soul chanced to be a widower； but such bereavement is no
necessary preliminary to becoming a 〃dweller in retirement。〃
Sometimes a man enters the inkyo state while he still has with him
the helpmate of his youth； and the two go together to this aftermath
of life。 Surely a pretty return； this； of the honeymoon！ Darby and
Joan starting once more hand in hand； alone in this Indian summer of
their love； as they did years ago in its spring…tide； before other
generations of their own had pushed them on to less romantic parts；
Darby come back from paternal cares to be once more the lover； and
Joan from mother and grandam again become his girl。
We parted from our watchman…guide and half our porters with much
feeling； as did they from us。 As friendships go we had not known one
another long； but intimacy is not measured by time。 Circumstances
had thrown us into one another's arms； and； as we bade good…by first
to one and then to another； we seemed to be severing a tie that
touched very near the heart。
Two of the porters came on with us； as much for love as for money；
as far as Kamiichi； where we were to get kuruma。 A long tramp we had
of it across leagues of ricefields； and for a part of the way beside a
large； deep canal； finely bowered in trees； and flowing with a swift；
dark current like some huge boa winding stealthily under the bamboo。
It was the artery to I know not how many square miles of field。
We came in for a steady drizzle after this； and it was long past noon
before we touched our noontide halt； and stalked at last into the inn。
With great difficulty we secured three kuruma；the place stood on
the limits of such locomotion；and a crowd so dense collected about
them that it blocked the way out。 Everybody seemed smitten with a
desire to see the strangers； which gave the inn servants； by virtue
of their calling； an enviable distinction to village eyes。 But the
porters stood highest in regard； both because of their more intimate
tie to us and because we here parted from them。 It was severing the
final link to the now happy past。 We all felt it； and told our
rosary of memories in thought； I doubt not； each to himself； as we
went out into the world upon our different ways。
Eight miles in a rain brought us to the road by which we had entered
Etchiu some days before； and that night we slept at Mikkaichi once
more。 On the morrow morning the weather faired； and toward midday we
were again facing the fringe of breakers from the cliffs。
The mountain spurs looked the grimmer that we now knew them so well by
repulse。 The air was clearer than when we came； and as we gazed out
over the ocean we could see for the first half day the faint coast
line of Noto； stretching toward us like an arm along the horizon。
We watched it at intervals as long as it was recognizable； and when
at last it vanished beyond even imagination's power to conjure up；
felt a strange pang of personal regret。 The sea that snatches away
so many lands at parting seems fitly inhuman to the deed。
In the course of these two days two things happened which pointed
curiously to the isolation of this part of Japan。 The first was the
near meeting with another foreigner； which would seem to imply
precisely the contrary。 But the unwonted excitement into which the
event threw Yejiro and me was proof enough of its strangeness。
It was while I was sipping tea； waiting for a fresh relay of kuruma at
Namerigawa； that Yejiro rushed in to announce that another foreigner
was resting at an inn a little further up town。 He had arrived
shortly before from the Echigo side； report said。 The passing of
royalty or even a circus would have been tame news in comparison。
Of course I hastened into my boots and sallied forth。 I did not call
on him formally； but I inspected the front of the inn in which he was
said to be； with peculiar expectation of spirit； in spite of my
affected unconcern。 He was； I believe； a German； but he never took
shape。
The second event occurred the next evening； and was even more singular。
Like the dodo it chronicled survival。 It was manifested in the
person of a policeman。
Some time after our arrival at the inn Yejiro reported that the
police officer wished to see me。 The man had already seen the
important part of me； the passport； and I was at a loss to imagine
what more he could want。 So Yejiro was sent back to investigate。
He returned shortly with a sad case of concern for consideration；
and he hardly kept his face as he told it。 The conscientious officer；
it seemed； wished to sleep outside my room for my protection。
From the passport he felt himself responsible for my safety； and had
concluded that the least he could do would be not to leave me for a
moment。 I assured him； through Yejiro； that his offer was most
thoughtful； but unnecessary。 But what an out…of…the…world corner the
thought implied； and what a fine fossil the good soul must have been！
Here was survival with an emphasis！ The man had slept soundly through
twenty years or more of change； and was still in the pre…foreign days
of the feudal ages。
The prices of kuruma； too； were pleasingly behind the times。 They
were but two…fifths of what we should have had to pay on the southern
coast。 As we advanced toward Shinshiu； however； the prices advanced
too。 Indeed； the one advance accurately measured the other。 We were
getting back again into the world； it was painfully evident。 At last
fares rose to six cents a ri。 Before they could mount higher we had
taken refuge in the trai