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certain in its premises to be inviting。 If professionals； properly
accoutred； found crossing so dangerous a matter； the place was hardly
one for unprovided amateurs。 These mountaineers were not tied
together； but wore over their waraji； or straw sandals； a set of
irons called kanakajiki。 We were shown some of them which had been
left by the woodcutters against their return。 They were skeleton
sandals； iron bands shod with three spikes。 They looked like
instruments of torture from the Middle Ages； and indeed were said to
be indispensable against backsliding。
On the other hand； one Blondin feat over the Devil Place was enough
for me。 To take it on the road rather than turn back was one thing；
to start to take it in cold blood another。 I had had quite enough of
balancing and doubt。 So I asked if there was no other way out。
We might； they said； go to Arimine。
〃And how was the road？〃
〃Oh； the road was good；〃 they answered cheerily。
〃Could we get a guide？〃
Apparently we could not； for an awkward pause ensued until； after
some suspense； the bigger of the two watchmen； he that sat in the
shadow of the corner； volunteered to pilot us himself； and； he added；
we should not have to start betimes； as the snow would not be fit to
travel on till the sun had melted the crust。
Upon this doubly comforting conclusion I bade them good…night；
and betook me to the cell…like room allotted me to sleep。
XVII。
Over the Snow。
When Yejiro pushed the shoji and the amado （night shutters） apart in
the morning； he disclosed a bank of snow four feet deep； not a
snowfall over night； but the relic of the winter。 I found myself in
a snow grotto beyond which nothing was visible。 He then imparted to
me the cheerful news that the watchman had changed his mind； and now
refused to set out with us。 It was too late in the day to start； the
man said； which； in view of his having informed us only the night
before that the snow would not be fit to travel on till this very
hour； was scarcely logical。 The trouble lay not in the way； but in
the will。 The man had repented him of his promise。 Things look
differently as certainties in the morning from what they do as
possibilities overnight。 Fortunately he proved amenable to
importunity； and finally consented to go。 His fellow was much
worried； and followed him distressfully to the outer threshold；
whence in perturbation of spirit he watched us depart； calling out
pathetically to his mate to be very careful of himself。 His almost
motherly solicitude seemed to me more comical at the time than it
came to seem later。
The sky was without a fleck of cloud； and； as we struck out across
the snow； I feared at first for my eyes； so great was the glare。
For I had neither goggles nor veil。 In fact； we were as unprepared a
troop as ever started on such an expedition。 We had not a pair of
foot spikes nor a spiked pole to the lot of us。
The jagged peaks of the valley's wall notched the sky in vivid
relief； their sharp teeth biting the blue。 We below were blinking。
Luckily before very long we had crossed the level and were attacking
the wall； and once on it the glare lessened； for we were facing the
south； and the slant of the slope took off from the directness of the
sun's rays。 The higher we rose； the greater the tilt became。 The
face of the slope was completely buried in snow except where the
aretes stuck through； for the face was well wrinkled。 The angle soon
grew unpleasant to visage； and certainly looked to have exceeded the
limit of stable equilibrium。 In mid…ascent； as we were winding
cautiously up； a porter slipped。 He stopped himself； however； and
was helped on to his feet again by his fellow behind。 The bad bit
was preface to a worse effect round the corner； for on turning the
arete； we came upon a snow slope like a gigantic house…roof。 It was
as steep as you please； and disappeared a few hundred feet below over
the edge into the abyss。 Across and up this the guide； after looking
about him； struck out； and I followed。 The snow was in a plastic
state； and at each step I kicked my toes well in； so wedging my
footing。 The view down was very unnerving。 It soon grew so bad I
fixed my thought solely on making each step secure； and went slowly；
which was much against my inclination。 In this manner we tacked
gradually upward in zigzags； some forty feet apart； each of us
improving the footprints of his predecessor。
After a short eternity； we came out at the top。 I threw myself upon
the snow； and when I had sufficiently recovered my breath asked the
guide； with what I meant for sarcasm； whether that was his idea of
〃a good road。〃 He owned that it was the worst bit on the way； but he
somewhat grudgingly conceded it a 〃gake。〃 I sat corrected； but in the
interest of any future wanderer I submit the following definition of
a 〃gake；〃 which； if not strictly accurate； at least leans to the
right side。 If the cliff overhang； it is a 〃gake；〃 but if a plumb
line from the top fall anywhere within the base； it is no longer a
〃gake；〃 but 〃a good road。〃
On the other side the slope was more hospitable。 Even trees wintered
just below the crest； their great gaunt trunks thrust deep into the
snow。 We glissaded down the first few hundred feet； till we brought
up standing at the head of an incipient gorge； likewise smothered in
snow。 Round the boles of the trees the snow had begun to thaw； which
gave me a chance to measure its depth； by leaning over the rim of the
cup and thrusting my pole down as far as I could reach。 The point of
it must have been over seven feet from the surface； and it touched no
bottom。 My investigations took time enough to put a bend of the
hollow between me and the others； and when at last I looked up they
were nowhere to be seen。 As I trudged after them alone I felt like
that coming historical character； the last man on our then frozen
earth。
For some minutes past a strange； far…away musical note； like the
murmur of running water； had struck my ear； and yet all about
everything looked dead。 Of animate or even inanimate pulsation there
was no sign。 One unbroken sheet of snow stretched as far as I could
see； in which stood the great trees like mummies。 Still the sound
continued； seeming to come from under my feet。 I stopped； and；
kneeling down； put my ear to the crust； and there； as distinct as
possible； I heard the wimpling of a baby brook； crooning to itself
under its thick white blanket。 Here then was the cradle of one of
those streams that later would become such an ugly customer to meet。
It was babily innocent now； and the one living thing beside myself on
this May day in the great snow…sheeted solitude。
Perhaps it was the brook that had undermined the snow。 At all events；
soon after I overtook the others； the guide； fearing to trust to it
farther； suddenly struck up again to the left。 W