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loathed to touch it at the same time。
At Kamidaki； after the usual delay； we found porters； who echoed the
doubts of the people of Toyama； and went with us protesting。 Half an
hour after this we came to the Jindogawa； a river of variable
importance。 It looked to have been once the bed of a mighty glacier
that should have swept grandly round from unseen fastnesses among the
hills。 At the time of our visit； it was； for the most part； a waste
of stones through which two larger and several lesser streams were in
much worry to find their way to the sea。 The two larger were just
big enough to be unfordable； so a Charon stationed at each ferried
the country folk across。 At the smaller； after picking out the
likeliest spots； we took off our shoes and socks and waded； and then；
upon the other side； sat some time on stones； ill…modeled to that
end； to draw our things on again。
Our way now led up the left bankthe right bank； according to
aquatic convention； which pleasingly supposes you to be descending
the stream。 It lay along a plateau which I doubt not to have been
the river's prehistoric bed； so evidently had the present one been
chiseled out of it to a further depth of over fifty feet。 At first
the path struck inland； astutely making a chord to the river's bow；
an unsuspected sign of intelligence in a path。 It was adventurous；
too； for soon after coming out above the brink； it began upon
acrobatic feats in which it showed itself nationally proficient。
A narrow aqueduct had been cut out of the side of the cliff； and along
its outer embankment； which was two feet wide； the path proceeded to
balance。 The aqueduct had given way in spots； which caused the path
to take to some rickety boards put there for its benefit。 After this
exhibition of daring； it descended to the stream； to rise again later。
Meanwhile night came on and the river bottom began to fill with what
looked to be mist； but was in reality smoke。 This gave a weird
effect to the now mountainous settings。 Into the midst of it we
descended to a suspension bridge of twisted strands of the wistaria
vine； ballasted at the ends with boulders piled from the river's bed。
The thing swayed cheerfully as we passed over。
On the top of the opposite bank stood perched a group of houses； not
enough to make a village； and far too humble to support an inn。
But in their midst rose a well…to…do temple； where； according to the
guidebook； good lodging was to be had。 It may indeed be so。 For our
part we were not so much as granted entry。 An acolyte； who parleyed
with us through the darkness； reported the priest away on business；
and refused to let us in on any terms。 Several bystanders gathered
during the interview； and had it not been for one of them we might
have been there yet。 From this man we elicited the information that
another hamlet lay half a mile further up； whose head…man； he thought；
might be willing to house us。 We followed straight on until some
buildings showed in still blacker silhouette against the black sky；
and there； after some groping in the dark and a second uncanny
conversation through a loophole；for the place was already boarded
up for the night；we were finally taken in。
The house was a generous instance of a mountain farmhouse。
The floors were innocent of mats； and the rooms otherwise pitiably
barnlike。 Yet an air of largeness distinguished the whole。 It was
clearly the home of a man of standing in his community； one who lived
amply the only life he knew。 You felt you already knew the man from
his outer envelope。 And this in some sort prepared me for a little
scene I was shortly to witness。 For while waiting for Yejiro to get
dinner ready I became aware that something was going on in what stood
for hall； and on pushing the shoji gently apart I beheld the whole
household at evening prayers before an altar piece； lighted by
candles and glittering with gilded Buddhas and bronze lotus flowers。
The father intoned the service from a kind of breviary； and the
family joined from time to time in the responses。 There was a
sincerity and a sweet simplicity about the act that went to my heart
and held me there。 At the close of it the family remained bowed
while the intoner reverently put out the lights and folded the doors
upon the images within。 Locked in that little case lay all the
luxury which the family could afford； and to which the rest of the
house was stranger。 There is something touching in any heartfelt
belief； and something pathetic too。
This peaceful parenthesis was hardly past before the trials of travel
intruded themselves again。 The porters proved refractory。 They had
agreed to come only as far as they could； and now they refused to
proceed further。 Here was a pretty pass。 To turn back now was worse
than not to have set out at all。 Besides； we had not yet even come
in sight of the enemy。 Yejiro reasoned with them for some hours in
the kitchen； occasionally pausing for lack of further argument to
report his want of progress。 It seemed the men valued their lives
above a money consideration； strangely enough。 They made no bones
about it； the thing was too dangerous。 The streams they declared
impassable； and the charcoal burners the only men who knew the path。
Yejiro at once had these witnesses subpoenaed； and by good luck one of
them came； who； on being questioned； repeated all the porters had
said。 But Yejiro's blood was up； and he boldly played his last
trump。 He threatened them with the arm of the law； a much more
effective weapon in Japan than elsewhere。 He proposed； in fine； to
walk three ri down the valley to the nearest police station and fetch
a policeman who should compel them to move on。 It is perhaps open to
doubt whether even a Japanese policeman's omnipotence would have
extended so far。 But the threat； though not conclusive； had some
effect。 This strategic stroke I only learnt of later； and I laughed
heartily when I did。 That night； however； it was no laughing matter；
and I began to have doubts myself。 But it was no time for
misgivings； so I went in to help。 The circle round the kitchen fire
was not a cheerful sight。 To have the courage of one's convictions
is rare enough in this weak world； but to have the courage of one's
doubts is something I uncover to。 To furnish pluck for a whole
company including one's self； to hearten others without letting them
see how sore in need of heartening is the heartener； touches my
utmost admiration。 If only another would say to him that he might
believe the very things he does not believe； as he says them to that
other； they then might at least seem true。 Ignorance saved me。 Had
I known what they did； I should have agreed with them on the spot。
As it was； I did what I could； and went back to my own room； the prey
of somewhat lonely thoughts。
XV。
Toward the Pass。
I was waked by good news。 The porters had； to a certai