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and kept up a shouting out of mere delight。 In truth we all enjoyed
the dissipated squandering in a few minutes of the energy of position
we had so laboriously gained by toiling up the other side。 Over the
bridge we rattled； bowled along the level stretch； and then into the
gorge and once more down； till in another ten minutes the last fall
had shot us out into the plain with mental momentum enough to carry
us hilariously into Imaisurugi； where we put up for the night。
At breakfast the next morning the son of the house； an engaging lad；
presented me with an unexpected dish； three fossil starfish on a
platter。 They were found； he said； in numbers； on the sides of the
hill hard by； a fact which would go to prove that this part of Japan
has been making in later geologic time。 Indeed； I take it the better
part of Etchiu has thus been cast up by the sea； and now lies between
its semicircle of peaks and its crescent of beach； like a young moon
in the western sky； a new bay of ricefield in the old bay's arms。
We had come by way of its ocean terminator along its fringe of sand；
we were now to cross its face。
As we pulled out from the town and entered the great plain of
paddyfields it was like adventuring ourselves in some vast expanse of
ocean； cut up only by islets of trees。 So level the plain and so
still the air on this warm May morning； the clumps shimmered in
mirage in the distance like things at sea。 Farmhouses and peasants
at work in the fields loomed up as ships； past which we slowly tacked
and then dropped them out of sight behind。 And still no end of the
same infinite level。 New clumps rose doubtfully afar； took on form
and vanished in their turn。 Our men rolled along at a good six…knot
gait； and mile went to join mile with little perceptible effect on
the surroundings。 Only the misty washes of the mountains； glistening
in spots with snow； came out to the south and then swung slowly round
like the sun himself。 Occasionally； we rolled into a village of
which I duly inquired the distance from the last known point。 One of
these； Takaoka； was a very large place and stretched a mile or more
along the road； with ramifications to the side。
At last we neared some foothills which we crossed by a baby pass； and
from the farther side looked off against the distant Tateyama range。
Descending again； another stretch of plain brought us to Toyama；
the old feudal capital of the province。 It is still a bustling town；
and does a brisk business； I was told； in patent medicine； which is
hawked over Japan generally and cures everything。 But the former
splendor of the place has left it forever。 The rooms in the inn；
where neighboring daimyos were wont to rest on their journeys
through； are still superb with carving； lacquer and paintings； but no
daimyo will ever again hold his traveling court before their tokonoma。
The man perchance may again tarry there； but the manner of it all has
gone to join the past。 Now he who wills may ensconce himself in the
daimyo's corner； and fancy himself a feudal lord； nor will the
breeding of those about him disillusion his midday dream。
The castle they have turned into a public school； and as I strolled
into its close I met bands of boys in foreign lycee…like uniform
trooping out； chubby…faced youngsters in stiff visored caps。 Girls
there were too； in knots of twos and threes； pretty little things in
semi…European dress； their hair done a la grecque； stuck with a
single flower； who stopped in their chatter to stare at me。 To think
that the feudal times are to them as much a tale as the making of the
plain itself where its ruins stand already mantled with green！
XIV。
The Harinoki Toge。
There now befell us a sad piece of experience； the result of misplaced
confidence in the guidebook。 Ours was the faith a simple public pins
upon print。 Le journal； c'est un jeune homme； as Balzac said； and
even the best of guidebooks； as this one really was； may turn outa
cover to many shortcomings。
Its description of the crossing of the Harinoki toge implied a
generality of performances that carried conviction。 If he who read
might not run； he had； at least； every assurance given him that he
would be able to walk。 That the writer might not only have been the
first to cross； but the last； as well； was not evident from the text。
Nor was it there apparent that the path which was spoken of as
difficult and described as 〃hanging to the precipitous side of the
cliff；〃 might have become tired of hanging thus for the sake of
travelers who never came； and have given itself over at last to the
abyss。
In the book； the dead past still lived an ever…youthful present。
In truth； however； the path at the time of the account； some twelve
years before； had just been made by the samurai of Kaga to join them
to the capital。 Since then the road by the sea had been built； and
the Harinoki pass had ceased to be in practice what it purported to
be in print。 It had in a double sense reverted to type。 There was
small wonder at this； for it was a very Cerberus of a pass at best；
with three heads to it。 The farthest from Etchiu was the Harinoki
toge proper。
The guidebook and a friend had gone over one season； and the guidebook
had induced another friend to accompany him again the year after。
Whether there were any unpersonally conducted ascents I am not sure。
But at any rate； all this happened in the early days； for years the
Harinoki toge had had rest。
We ought to have taken warning from the general skepticism we met
with at Toyama； when we proposed the pass。 But with the fatal faith
of a man in his guidebook； we ignored the native forebodings。
Besides； there were just people enough who knew nothing about it； and
therefore thought it could be done； to encourage us in our delusion。
Accordingly we left Toyama after lunch in the best of spirits； in
jinrikisha； for Kamidaki； or Upper Fall； to which there professed to
be a jinrikisha road。 The distance was three ri； seven miles and a
half。 Before we had gone one of them the road gave out； and left us
to tack on foot in paths through the rice…fields； which in one long
inclination kept mounting before us。 Just before reaching the village；
a huge tree in full faint purple bloom showed up a little to the left。
Under a sudden attack of botanical zeal； I struck across lots to
investigate； and after much tacking among the paddy dykes found；
to my surprise； on reaching it； that the flowers came from a huge
wistaria that had coiled itself up the tree。 The vine must have been
at least six feet round at the base； and had a body horribly like an
enormous boa that swung from branches high in air。 The animal look
of the vegetable parasite was so lifelike that one both longed and
loathed to touch it at the same time。
At Kamidaki； after the usual delay； we found porters； who echoed the
doubts of the people of Toya