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a mere bar tracery of earth between the sky above and a sky beneath。
Upon such lattice of a world we journeyed in mid…heaven。 Stealthily
the shadows gathered； and as the hour for confidences drew on； nature
took us into hers。 The trees in the twilight； just breaking into
leaf； stood in groups among the fields and whispered low to one
another； nodding their heads； and then from out the shadow of the May
evening came the croaking of the frogs。 Strangely the sound fitted
the hour； with its like touch of mysterious suggestion。 As the
twilight indefinite； it pervaded everything； yet was never anywhere。
Deafening at a distance； it hushed at our approach only to begin
again behind us。 Will…o'…the…wisp of the ear； infatuating because
forever illusive！ And the distance and the numbers blended what had
perhaps been harsh into a mellow whole that filled the gloaming with
a sort of voice。 I began to understand why the Japanese are so fond
of it that they deem it not unworthy a place in nature's vocal
pantheon but little lower than the song of the nightingale； and echo
its sentiment in verse。 And indeed it seems to me that his soul must
be conventionally tuned in whom this even…song of the ricefields
stirs no responsive chord。
VIII。
Across the Etchiu Delta。
The twilight lingered； and the road threaded its tortuous course for
miles through the rice plain； bordered on either hand by the dykes of
the paddyfields。 Every few hundred feet； we passed a farmhouse
screened by clipped hedgerows and bosomed in trees； and at longer
intervals we rolled through some village； the country pike becoming
for the time the village street。 The land was an archipelago of
homestead in a sea of rice。 But the trees about the dwellings so cut
up the view； that for the moments of passing the mind forgot it was
all so flat and came back to its ocean in surprise； when the next
vista opened on the sides。
Things had already become silhouettes when we dashed into
lantern…lighted Mikkaichi。 We took the place in form； and a fine
sensation we made。 What between the shouts of the runners and the
clatter of the chaises men； women and children made haste to clear a
track； snatching their little ones back and then staring at us as we
swept past。 Indeed； the teams put their best feet foremost for local
effect； and more than once came within an ace of running over some
urchin who either would not or could not get out of the way。
Fortunately no casualties occurred。 For it would have been
ignominious to have been arrested by the police during our first ten
minutes in the town； not to speak of the sad dampening to our
feelings an accident would have caused。
In this mad manner we dashed up the long main street。 We were forced
to take the side； for the village aqueduct or gutterit served both
purposesmonopolized the middle。 At short intervals； it was spanned
by causeways made of slabs of stone。 Over one of these we made a
final swirl and drew up before the inn。 Then our shafts made their
obeisance to the ground。
A warm welcome greeted the appeal。 A crowd of servants came rushing
to the front of the house with an eye to business； and a crowd of
village folk with an eye to pleasure closed in behind。 Between the
two fires we stepped out and entered the side court； to the
satisfaction of the one audience and the chagrin of the other。
But it is impossible to please everybody。
Fortunately it was not so hard to please us； and certainly the inn
people did their best； for they led the way to what formerly were the
state apartments； that part of the house where the daimyo of Kaga had
been wont to lodge when he stopped here over night on his journey
north。 Though it had fallen somewhat into disrepair； it was still
the place of honor in the inn； and therefore politely put at the
service of one from beyond sea。 There I supped in solitary state；
and there I slept right royally amid the relics of former splendor；
doubting a little whether some unlaid ghost of bygone times might not
come to claim his own； and oust me at black midnight by the rats； his
retinue。
But nothing short of the sun called me back to consciousness and bade
me open to the tiny garden； where a pair of ducks were preening their
feathers after an early bath in their own little lake。 On the
veranda my lake already stood prepared； a brass basin upon a wooden
stand； according to the custom of the country。 So ducks and I
dabbled and prinked in all innocence in the garden； which might well
have been the garden of Eden for any hint it gave of a world beyond。
It was my fate； too； to leave it after the same manner。
For breakfast over we were once more of the road。
We had a long day of it before us； for I purposed to cross the Etchiu
delta and sleep that night on the threshold of my hopes。 The day；
like all days that look long on the map； proved still longer on the
march。 Its itinerary diversified discomfort。 First seventeen miles
in kuruma； then a ferry； then a tramp of twelve miles along the beach
through a series of sand dunes； then another ferry； and finally a
second walk of seven miles and a half over some foothills to top off
with。 The inexpensiveness of the transport was the sole relieving
feature of the day。 Not； I mean； because the greater and worse half
of the journey was done on our own feet； but because of the cheap
charges of the chaises and even of the porters。 To run at a dogtrot；
trundling another in a baby carriage； seventeen miles for twenty
cents is not； I hold； an extortionate price。 Certain details of the
tariff； however； are peculiar。 For instance； if two men share the
work by running tandem； the fare is more than doubled； a ratio in the
art of proportion surprising at first。 Each man would seem to charge
for being helped。 The fact is； the greater speed expected of the
pair more than offsets the decreased draft。
Otherwise； as I say； the day was depressing。 It was not merely the
tramp through the sand dunes that was regrettable； though heaven
knows I would not willingly take it again。 The sand had far too
hospitable a trick of holding on to you at every step to be to my
liking。 Besides； the sun； which had come out with summer insistence；
chose that particular spot for its midday siesta； and lay there at
full length； while the air was preternaturally still。 It was a
stupidly drowsy heat that gave no fillip to the feet。
But such discomfort was merely by the way。 The real trouble began at
Fushiki； the town on the farther side of the second ferry。 In the
first place the spot had； what is most uncommon in Japan； a very
sorry look； which was depressing in itself。 Secondly； its inhabitants
were much too busy or much too unemployed； or both； to be able to
attend to strangers at that hour of the afternoon。 Consequently it
was almost impossible to get any one to carry the baggage。
We dispatched emissaries； h