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… grease coming and buttons going from the square…skirted
coat； the face puffing and pimpling； the shoulders
growing bowed； the hair falling scant and grey upon his
head； and the last that ever I saw of him； he was
standing at the mouth of an entry with several men in
moleskin； three parts drunk； and his old black raiment
daubed with mud。 I fancy that I still can hear him
laugh。 There was something heart…breaking in this
gradual declension at so advanced an age； you would have
thought a man of sixty out of the reach of these
calamities； you would have thought that he was niched by
that time into a safe place in life； whence he could pass
quietly and honourably into the grave。
One of the earliest marks of these DEGRINGOLADES is；
that the victim begins to disappear from the New Town
thoroughfares； and takes to the High Street； like a
wounded animal to the woods。 And such an one is the type
of the quarter。 It also has fallen socially。 A
scutcheon over the door somewhat jars in sentiment where
there is a washing at every window。 The old man； when I
saw him last； wore the coat in which he had played the
gentleman three years before； and that was just what gave
him so pre…eminent an air of wretchedness。
It is true that the over…population was at least as
dense in the epoch of lords and ladies； and that now…a…
days some customs which made Edinburgh notorious of yore
have been fortunately pretermitted。 But an aggregation
of comfort is not distasteful like an aggregation of the
reverse。 Nobody cares how many lords and ladies； and
divines and lawyers； may have been crowded into these
houses in the past … perhaps the more the merrier。 The
glasses clink around the china punch…bowl； some one
touches the virginals； there are peacocks' feathers on
the chimney； and the tapers burn clear and pale in the
red firelight。 That is not an ugly picture in itself；
nor will it become ugly upon repetition。 All the better
if the like were going on in every second room； the LAND
would only look the more inviting。 Times are changed。
In one house； perhaps； two…score families herd together；
and； perhaps； not one of them is wholly out of the reach
of want。 The great hotel is given over to discomfort
from the foundation to the chimney…tops； everywhere a
pinching； narrow habit； scanty meals； and an air of
sluttishness and dirt。 In the first room there is a
birth； in another a death； in a third a sordid drinking…
bout； and the detective and the Bible…reader cross upon
the stairs。 High words are audible from dwelling to
dwelling； and children have a strange experience from the
first； only a robust soul； you would think； could grow up
in such conditions without hurt。 And even if God tempers
His dispensations to the young； and all the ill does not
arise that our apprehensions may forecast； the sight of
such a way of living is disquieting to people who are
more happily circumstanced。 Social inequality is nowhere
more ostentatious than at Edinburgh。 I have mentioned
already how； to the stroller along Princes Street； the
High Street callously exhibits its back garrets。 It is
true； there is a garden between。 And although nothing
could be more glaring by way of contrast； sometimes the
opposition is more immediate； sometimes the thing lies in
a nutshell； and there is not so much as a blade of grass
between the rich and poor。 To look over the South Bridge
and see the Cowgate below full of crying hawkers； is to
view one rank of society from another in the twinkling of
an eye。
One night I went along the Cowgate after every one
was a…bed but the policeman； and stopped by hazard before
a tall LAND。 The moon touched upon its chimneys； and
shone blankly on the upper windows； there was no light
anywhere in the great bulk of building； but as I stood
there it seemed to me that I could hear quite a body of
quiet sounds from the interior； doubtless there were many
clocks ticking； and people snoring on their backs。 And
thus； as I fancied； the dense life within made itself
faintly audible in my ears； family after family
contributing its quota to the general hum； and the whole
pile beating in tune to its timepieces； like a great
disordered heart。 Perhaps it was little more than a
fancy altogether； but it was strangely impressive at the
time； and gave me an imaginative measure of the
disproportion between the quantity of living flesh and
the trifling walls that separated and contained it。
There was nothing fanciful； at least； but every
circumstance of terror and reality； in the fall of the
LAND in the High Street。 The building had grown rotten
to the core； the entry underneath had suddenly closed up
so that the scavenger's barrow could not pass； cracks and
reverberations sounded through the house at night； the
inhabitants of the huge old human bee…hive discussed
their peril when they encountered on the stair； some had
even left their dwellings in a panic of fear； and
returned to them again in a fit of economy or self…
respect； when； in the black hours of a Sunday morning；
the whole structure ran together with a hideous uproar
and tumbled story upon story to the ground。 The physical
shock was felt far and near； and the moral shock
travelled with the morning milkmaid into all the suburbs。
The church…bells never sounded more dismally over
Edinburgh than that grey forenoon。 Death had made a
brave harvest； and； like Samson； by pulling down one
roof； destroyed many a home。 None who saw it can have
forgotten the aspect of the gable； here it was plastered；
there papered； according to the rooms； here the kettle
still stood on the hob； high overhead； and there a cheap
picture of the Queen was pasted over the chimney。 So； by
this disaster； you had a glimpse into the life of thirty
families； all suddenly cut off from the revolving years。
The LAND had fallen； and with the LAND how much！ Far in
the country； people saw a gap in the city ranks； and the
sun looked through between the chimneys in an unwonted
place。 And all over the world； in London； in Canada； in
New Zealand； fancy what a multitude of people could
exclaim with truth： 'The house that I was born in fell
last night！'
CHAPTER III。
THE PARLIAMENT CLOSE。
TIME has wrought its changes most notably around the
precincts of St。 Giles's Church。 The church itself； if
it were not for the spire； would be unrecognisable； the
KRAMES are all gone； not a shop is left to shelter in its
buttresses； and zealous magistrates and a misguided
architect have shorn the design of manhood； and left it
poor； naked； and pitifully pretentious。 As St。 Giles's
must have had in former days a rich and quaint appearance
now forgotten； so the neighbourhood was bustling；
sunless； and romantic。 It was here that the town was