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THE Old Town； it is pretended； is the chief
characteristic； and； from a picturesque point of view；
the liver…wing of Edinburgh。 It is one of the most
common forms of depreciation to throw cold water on the
whole by adroit over…commendation of a part； since
everything worth judging； whether it be a man； a work of
art； or only a fine city； must be judged upon its merits
as a whole。 The Old Town depends for much of its effect
on the new quarters that lie around it； on the
sufficiency of its situation； and on the hills that back
it up。 If you were to set it somewhere else by itself；
it would look remarkably like Stirling in a bolder and
loftier edition。 The point is to see this embellished
Stirling planted in the midst of a large； active； and
fantastic modern city； for there the two re…act in a
picturesque sense； and the one is the making of the
other。
The Old Town occupies a sloping ridge or tail of
diluvial matter； protected； in some subsidence of the
waters； by the Castle cliffs which fortify it to the
west。 On the one side of it and the other the new towns
of the south and of the north occupy their lower；
broader； and more gentle hill…tops。 Thus； the quarter of
the Castle over…tops the whole city and keeps an open
view to sea and land。 It dominates for miles on every
side； and people on the decks of ships； or ploughing in
quiet country places over in Fife； can see the banner on
the Castle battlements； and the smoke of the Old Town
blowing abroad over the subjacent country。 A city that
is set upon a hill。 It was； I suppose； from this distant
aspect that she got her nickname of AULD REEKIE。 Perhaps
it was given her by people who had never crossed her
doors： day after day； from their various rustic Pisgahs；
they had seen the pile of building on the hill…top； and
the long plume of smoke over the plain； so it appeared to
them； so it had appeared to their fathers tilling the
same field； and as that was all they knew of the place；
it could be all expressed in these two words。
Indeed； even on a nearer view； the Old Town is
properly smoked； and though it is well washed with rain
all the year round； it has a grim and sooty aspect among
its younger suburbs。 It grew； under the law that
regulates the growth of walled cities in precarious
situations； not in extent； but in height and density。
Public buildings were forced； wherever there was room for
them； into the midst of thoroughfares； thorough … fares
were diminished into lanes； houses sprang up story after
story； neighbour mounting upon neighbour's shoulder； as
in some Black Hole of Calcutta； until the population
slept fourteen or fifteen deep in a vertical direction。
The tallest of these LANDS； as they are locally termed；
have long since been burnt out； but to this day it is not
uncommon to see eight or ten windows at a flight； and the
cliff of building which hangs imminent over Waverley
Bridge would still put many natural precipices to shame。
The cellars are already high above the gazer's head；
planted on the steep hill…side； as for the garret； all
the furniture may be in the pawn…shop； but it commands a
famous prospect to the Highland hills。 The poor man may
roost up there in the centre of Edinburgh； and yet have a
peep of the green country from his window； he shall see
the quarters of the well…to…do fathoms underneath； with
their broad squares and gardens； he shall have nothing
overhead but a few spires； the stone top…gallants of the
city； and perhaps the wind may reach him with a rustic
pureness； and bring a smack of the sea or of flowering
lilacs in the spring。
It is almost the correct literary sentiment to
deplore the revolutionary improvements of Mr。 Chambers
and his following。 It is easy to be a conservator of the
discomforts of others； indeed； it is only our good
qualities we find it irksome to conserve。 Assuredly； in
driving streets through the black labyrinth； a few
curious old corners have been swept away； and some
associations turned out of house and home。 But what
slices of sunlight； what breaths of clean air； have been
let in！ And what a picturesque world remains untouched！
You go under dark arches； and down dark stairs and
alleys。 The way is so narrow that you can lay a hand on
either wall； so steep that； in greasy winter weather； the
pavement is almost as treacherous as ice。 Washing
dangles above washing from the windows； the houses bulge
outwards upon flimsy brackets； you see a bit of sculpture
in a dark corner； at the top of all； a gable and a few
crowsteps are printed on the sky。 Here； you come into a
court where the children are at play and the grown people
sit upon their doorsteps； and perhaps a church spire
shows itself above the roofs。 Here； in the narrowest of
the entry； you find a great old mansion still erect； with
some insignia of its former state … some scutcheon； some
holy or courageous motto； on the lintel。 The local
antiquary points out where famous and well…born people
had their lodging； and as you look up； out pops the head
of a slatternly woman from the countess's window。 The
Bedouins camp within Pharaoh's palace walls； and the old
war…ship is given over to the rats。 We are already a far
way from the days when powdered heads were plentiful in
these alleys； with jolly； port…wine faces underneath。
Even in the chief thoroughfares Irish washings flutter at
the windows； and the pavements are encumbered with
loiterers。
These loiterers are a true character of the scene。
Some shrewd Scotch workmen may have paused on their way
to a job； debating Church affairs and politics with their
tools upon their arm。 But the most part are of a
different order … skulking jail…birds； unkempt； bare…foot
children； big…mouthed； robust women； in a sort of uniform
of striped flannel petticoat and short tartan shawl；
among these； a few surpervising constables and a dismal
sprinkling of mutineers and broken men from higher ranks
in society； with some mark of better days upon them； like
a brand。 In a place no larger than Edinburgh； and where
the traffic is mostly centred in five or six chief
streets； the same face comes often under the notice of an
idle stroller。 In fact； from this point of view；
Edinburgh is not so much a small city as the largest of
small towns。 It is scarce possible to avoid observing
your neighbours； and I never yet heard of any one who
tried。 It has been my fortune； in this anonymous
accidental way； to watch more than one of these downward
travellers for some stages on the road to ruin。 One man
must have been upwards of sixty before I first observed
him； and he made then a decent； personable figure in
broad…cloth of the best。 For three years he kept falling
… grease coming and buttons going from the square…skirted
coa