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and turrets； and describing its war…like shadow over the
liveliest and brightest thoroughfare of the new town。
From their smoky beehives； ten stories high； the unwashed
look down upon the open squares and gardens of the
wealthy； and gay people sunning themselves along Princes
Street； with its mile of commercial palaces all beflagged
upon some great occasion； see； across a gardened valley
set with statues； where the washings of the Old Town
flutter in the breeze at its high windows。 And then；
upon all sides； what a clashing of architecture！ In this
one valley； where the life of the town goes most busily
forward； there may be seen； shown one above and behind
another by the accidents of the ground； buildings in
almost every style upon the globe。 Egyptian and Greek
temples； Venetian palaces and Gothic spires； are huddled
one over another in a most admired disorder； while； above
all； the brute mass of the Castle and the summit of
Arthur's Seat look down upon these imitations with a
becoming dignity； as the works of Nature may look down
the monuments of Art。 But Nature is a more
indiscriminate patroness than we imagine； and in no way
frightened of a strong effect。 The birds roost as
willingly among the Corinthian capitals as in the
crannies of the crag； the same atmosphere and daylight
clothe the eternal rock and yesterday's imitation
portico； and as the soft northern sunshine throws out
everything into a glorified distinctness … or easterly
mists； coming up with the blue evening； fuse all these
incongruous features into one； and the lamps begin to
glitter along the street； and faint lights to burn in the
high windows across the valley … the feeling grows upon
you that this also is a piece of nature in the most
intimate sense； that this profusion of eccentricities；
this dream in masonry and living rock； is not a drop…
scene in a theatre； but a city in the world of every…day
reality； connected by railway and telegraph…wire with all
the capitals of Europe； and inhabited by citizens of the
familiar type； who keep ledgers； and attend church； and
have sold their immortal portion to a daily paper。 By
all the canons of romance； the place demands to be half
deserted and leaning towards decay； birds we might admit
in profusion； the play of the sun and winds； and a few
gipsies encamped in the chief thoroughfare； but these
citizens with their cabs and tramways； their trains and
posters； are altogether out of key。 Chartered tourists；
they make free with historic localities； and rear their
young among the most picturesque sites with a grand human
indifference。 To see them thronging by； in their neat
clothes and conscious moral rectitude； and with a little
air of possession that verges on the absurd； is not the
least striking feature of the place。 *
* These sentences have； I hear； given offence in my
native town； and a proportionable pleasure to our rivals
of Glasgow。 I confess the news caused me both pain and
merriment。 May I remark； as a balm for wounded fellow…
townsmen； that there is nothing deadly in my accusations？
Small blame to them if they keep ledgers： 'tis an
excellent business habit。 Churchgoing is not； that ever
I heard； a subject of reproach； decency of linen is a
mark of prosperous affairs； and conscious moral rectitude
one of the tokens of good living。 It is not their fault
it the city calls for something more specious by way of
inhabitants。 A man in a frock…coat looks out of place
upon an Alp or Pyramid； although he has the virtues of a
Peabody and the talents of a Bentham。 And let them
console themselves … they do as well as anybody else； the
population of （let us say） Chicago would cut quite as
rueful a figure on the same romantic stage。 To the
Glasgow people I would say only one word； but that is of
gold； I HAVE NOT YET WRITTEN A BOOK ABOUT GLASGOW。
And the story of the town is as eccentric as its
appearance。 For centuries it was a capital thatched with
heather； and more than once； in the evil days of English
invasion； it has gone up in flame to heaven； a beacon to
ships at sea。 It was the jousting…ground of jealous
nobles； not only on Greenside； or by the King's Stables；
where set tournaments were fought to the sound of
trumpets and under the authority of the royal presence；
but in every alley where there was room to cross swords；
and in the main street； where popular tumult under the
Blue Blanket alternated with the brawls of outlandish
clansmen and retainers。 Down in the palace John Knox
reproved his queen in the accents of modern democracy。
In the town； in one of those little shops plastered like
so many swallows' nests among the buttresses of the old
Cathedral； that familiar autocrat； James VI。； would
gladly share a bottle of wine with George Heriot the
goldsmith。 Up on the Pentland Hills； that so quietly
look down on the Castle with the city lying in waves
around it； those mad and dismal fanatics； the Sweet
Singers； haggard from long exposure on the moors； sat day
and night with 'tearful psalmns' to see Edinburgh
consumed with fire from heaven； like another Sodom or
Gomorrah。 There； in the Grass…market； stiff…necked；
covenanting heroes； offered up the often unnecessary； but
not less honourable； sacrifice of their lives； and bade
eloquent farewell to sun； moon； and stars； and earthly
friendships； or died silent to the roll of drums。 Down
by yon outlet rode Grahame of Claverhouse and his thirty
dragoons； with the town beating to arms behind their
horses' tails … a sorry handful thus riding for their
lives； but with a man at the head who was to return in a
different temper； make a dash that staggered Scotland to
the heart； and die happily in the thick of fight。 There
Aikenhead was hanged for a piece of boyish incredulity；
there； a few years afterwards； David Hume ruined
Philosophy and Faith； an undisturbed and well…reputed
citizen； and thither； in yet a few years more； Burns came
from the plough…tail； as to an academy of gilt unbelief
and artificial letters。 There； when the great exodus was
made across the valley； and the New Town began to spread
abroad its draughty parallelograms； and rear its long
frontage on the opposing hill； there was such a flitting；
such a change of domicile and dweller； as was never
excelled in the history of cities： the cobbler succeeded
the earl； the beggar ensconced himself by the judge's
chimney； what had been a palace was used as a pauper
refuge； and great mansions were so parcelled out among
the least and lowest in society； that the hearthstone of
the old proprietor was thought large enough to be
partitioned off into a bedroom by the new。
CHAPTER II。
OLD TOWN … THE LANDS。
THE Old Town； it is pretended； is the chief
characteristic； and； from a picturesque point of vie