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were minded to call in。 But let them get any architect
in the world to point out any reasonably well…
proportioned villa； not his own design； and let them
reproduce that model to satiety。
CHAPTER VIII。
THE CALTON HILL。
THE east of new Edinburgh is guarded by a craggy
hill； of no great elevation； which the town embraces。
The old London road runs on one side of it； while the New
Approach； leaving it on the other hand； completes the
circuit。 You mount by stairs in a cutting of the rock to
find yourself in a field of monuments。 Dugald Stewart
has the honours of situation and architecture； Burns is
memorialised lower down upon a spur； Lord Nelson； as
befits a sailor； gives his name to the top…gallant of the
Calton Hill。 This latter erection has been differently
and yet； in both cases； aptly compared to a telescope and
a butter…churn； comparisons apart； it ranks among the
vilest of men's handiworks。 But the chief feature is an
unfinished range of columns； 'the Modern Ruin' as it has
been called； an imposing object from far and near； and
giving Edinburgh； even from the sea； that false air； of a
Modern Athens which has earned for her so many slighting
speeches。 It was meant to be a National Monument； and
its present state is a very suitable monument to certain
national characteristics。 The old Observatory … a quaint
brown building on the edge of the steep … and the new
Observatory … a classical edifice with a dome … occupy
the central portion of the summit。 All these are
scattered on a green turf； browsed over by some sheep。
The scene suggests reflections on fame and on man's
injustice to the dead。 You see Dugald Stewart rather
more handsomely commemorated than Burns。 Immediately
below； in the Canongate churchyard； lies Robert
Fergusson； Burns's master in his art； who died insane
while yet a stripling； and if Dugald Stewart has been
somewhat too boisterously acclaimed； the Edinburgh poet；
on the other hand； is most unrighteously forgotten。 The
votaries of Burns； a crew too common in all ranks in
Scotland and more remarkable for number than discretion；
eagerly suppress all mention of the lad who handed to him
the poetic impulse and； up to the time when he grew
famous； continued to influence him in his manner and the
choice of subjects。 Burns himself not only acknowledged
his debt in a fragment of autobiography； but erected a
tomb over the grave in Canongate churchyard。 This was
worthy of an artist； but it was done in vain； and
although I think I have read nearly all the biographies
of Burns； I cannot remember one in which the modesty of
nature was not violated； or where Fergusson was not
sacrificed to the credit of his follower's originality。
There is a kind of gaping admiration that would fain roll
Shakespeare and Bacon into one； to have a bigger thing to
gape at； and a class of men who cannot edit one author
without disparaging all others。 They are indeed mistaken
if they think to please the great originals； and whoever
puts Fergusson right with fame； cannot do better than
dedicate his labours to the memory of Burns； who will be
the best delighted of the dead。
Of all places for a view； this Calton Hill is
perhaps the best； since you can see the Castle； which you
lose from the Castle； and Arthur's Seat； which you cannot
see from Arthur's Seat。 It is the place to stroll on one
of those days of sunshine and east wind which are so
common in our more than temperate summer。 The breeze
comes off the sea； with a little of the freshness； and
that touch of chill； peculiar to the quarter； which is
delightful to certain very ruddy organizations and
greatly the reverse to the majority of mankind。 It
brings with it a faint； floating haze； a cunning
decolourizer； although not thick enough to obscure
outlines near at hand。 But the haze lies more thickly to
windward at the far end of Musselburgh Bay； and over the
Links of Aberlady and Berwick Law and the hump of the
Bass Rock it assumes the aspect of a bank of thin sea
fog。
Immediately underneath upon the south； you command
the yards of the High School； and the towers and courts
of the new Jail … a large place； castellated to the
extent of folly； standing by itself on the edge of a
steep cliff； and often joyfully hailed by tourists as the
Castle。 In the one； you may perhaps see female prisoners
taking exercise like a string of nuns； in the other；
schoolboys running at play and their shadows keeping step
with them。 From the bottom of the valley； a gigantic
chimney rises almost to the level of the eye； a taller
and a shapelier edifice than Nelson's Monument。 Look a
little farther； and there is Holyrood Palace； with its
Gothic frontal and ruined abbey； and the red sentry
pacing smartly too and fro before the door like a
mechanical figure in a panorama。 By way of an outpost；
you can single out the little peak…roofed lodge； over
which Rizzio's murderers made their escape and where
Queen Mary herself； according to gossip； bathed in white
wine to entertain her loveliness。 Behind and overhead；
lie the Queen's Park； from Muschat's Cairn to
Dumbiedykes； St。 Margaret's Loch； and the long wall of
Salisbury Crags： and thence； by knoll and rocky bulwark
and precipitous slope； the eye rises to the top of
Arthur's Seat； a hill for magnitude； a mountain in virtue
of its bold design。 This upon your left。 Upon the
right； the roofs and spires of the Old Town climb one
above another to where the citadel prints its broad bulk
and jagged crown of bastions on the western sky。 …
Perhaps it is now one in the afternoon； and at the same
instant of time； a ball rises to the summit of Nelson's
flagstaff close at hand； and； far away； a puff of smoke
followed by a report bursts from the half…moon battery at
the Castle。 This is the time…gun by which people set
their watches； as far as the sea coast or in hill farms
upon the Pentlands。 … To complete the view； the eye
enfilades Princes Street； black with traffic； and has a
broad look over the valley between the Old Town and the
New： here； full of railway trains and stepped over by the
high North Bridge upon its many columns； and there； green
with trees and gardens。
On the north； the Calton Hill is neither so abrupt
in itself nor has it so exceptional an outlook； and yet
even here it commands a striking prospect。 A gully
separates it from the New Town。 This is Greenside； where
witches were burned and tournaments held in former days。
Down that almost precipitous bank； Bothwell launched his
horse； and so first； as they say； attracted the bright
eyes of Mary。 It is now tesselated with sheets and
blankets out to dry； and the sound of people beating
carpets is rarely absent。 Beyond all this； the suburbs
run out to Leith； Leith camps on the se